The clothing you wear while riding can have a huge influence on your comfort and performance, and in the summer months your jersey is always going to be one of the key pieces.

Advances in technical fabrics in recent years mean the difference in on-bike performance between the best cycling jerseys and normal clothes can be substantial, particularly if you’re concerned about going fast or riding in hot weather.

Of course, many roadies care about how they look on the bike too, so getting a cool cycling jersey can also be paramount.

While we certainly wouldn’t claim to be the arbiters of ‘cool’, we think all of these cycling jerseys fit the bill.

It’s worth remembering these jerseys are designed for riding in warm, dry weather, so don’t forget to check the weather forecast before rides. And, if you’re heading out for a long time, packing an extra layer to put on if the weather changes is always sensible.

Things to consider when shopping for cycling jerseys

Design

Summer jerseys use lightweight and highly breathable fabrics or mesh panels to keep you cool. The cut is usually fitted to help with sweat wicking performance and aerodynamics. Excess fabric is kept to a minimum to prevent flapping in the wind, which can cause increased drag.

Features

A well-fitting jersey with sensibly positioned seams and useful zip location is essential. A comfy collar and zip garages help to avoid irritation, while silicone-lined hems hold a jersey in place.

Pockets

Stash space is important for storing your ride essentials such as a spare tube, pump, wind/waterproof jacket, nutrition and phone. Easy access is vital, while zip pockets are ideal for keeping valuables safe.

Assos Equipe RS Aero SS Jersey

• Sizes: S–XXL
• Colours: Black, Black/White/Red, Black/White/Green, White/Black
• Price: £145 / $189 / AU$323 / €170

The Equipe RS is designed for aero efficiency, hugging the body like a second skin. This minimalist jersey feels perfect in the riding position but sizing is small so most will need to size up.

At the front, a soft-to-touch, three-dimensional dimpled knit fabric increases the surface area to push up evaporation rates and help with aerodynamic airflow. On the rear, a wider gauge mesh fabric increases breathability. This has limited vertical stretch and along with a silicone-lined hem keeps everything in place.

The smooth-fabric, raw-end sleeves are bonded to help with longevity, while the lower zip garage protects your shorts.

Even as a minimalist jersey there are three decent-sized, easy-access pockets. Assos has combined maximum efficiency with ride comfort but it doesn’t come cheap.

Assos doesn’t have a direct female equivalent, but its Dyora RS Summer SS jersey is the most similar option in its women’s-specific range.

Endura Pro SL Lite Jersey

• Sizes: XS–XXL
• Colours: Concrete Grey, Sunrise
• Price: £80 / $110 / €100

The new Pro SL Lite is the evolution of working with pro teams and is cut using lightweight fabrics specifically for warm days. It fits like a second skin without feeling tight.

Fine mesh front and side panels are cool, wick well and help with aerodynamics, while the grid patterned rear does a top job of shifting sweat.

The smooth fabric arms are not as long as some and feature raw ends with silicone bands that hold them in place. All critical seams are bonded, keeping weight and bulk down.

The low-cut neck sits well and does away with the need for a zip garage. The simple three-pocket setup is in keeping with the minimalist design, but they do sit a little higher than some. Hot-weather performance is right up there and the stylish Pro SL Lite punches above its price tag.

Those looking for a women’s-specific option might consider Endura’s WMS PT Wave S/S Jersey Limited Edition jersey.

Sportful Monocrom Jersey

• Sizes: S–XXXL
• Colours: Anthracite, Black, Blue Atomic, Coconut, Dry Green, Sea Moss
• Price: £90 / $150 / €100

We love the simplicity yet high function of this lightweight jersey. Sportful achieves the unique colour finish by creating a white jersey before dipping it into different colour dyes to achieve the final shade. As a consequence, every jersey is a one-off with all the component parts taking the dye differently. This gives it a neat, aged finish for a less race-inspired look.

The high-stretch mesh panels wick well and fit true to size, offering a more forgiving fit than some of Sportful’s race kit.

We liked the overall cut, with long sleeves and wide, raw-finish arm ends, low neck and a wide silicone-lined hem, all delivering a comfy fit. The three rear pockets are perfectly located and offer ample storage. A chic and high-performing summer jersey at a good price.

The Monocrom W Jersey is the women’s-specific version. The fit and range of colours are slightly different, but otherwise it’s very similar.

Alé PRR Green Road Jersey

• Sizes: S–XXXL
• Colours: Black, Burgundy, Blue, Turquoise, Yellow
• Price: £125 / $150 / AU$185 / €125

The Green Road uses over 90 per cent recycled materials in this race jersey that’s cut on the skinny side. It’s body hugging without feeling restrictive, which makes it good in windy conditions and helps with wicking.

Alé uses a horizontal mesh on the front and a wider mesh on the rear and under the arms for breathability.

The smooth, raw-end sleeves have plenty of length and sit well, while the front zip offers further ventilation. A bottom zip garage protects your shorts but there’s no need for one on the low-cut neck.

Three regular-sized pockets take care of storage but sit a little higher than some. There’s also a useful nutrition pocket on the right side. This jersey is up there for high-end race credentials.

Alé also offers a version designed for females riders.

Altura Icon Short-Sleeve Jersey

• Sizes: S–XL
• Colours: Large variety of colours and patterns
• Price: £55 / €65

The Icon is a good-value, bright and colourful jersey with 360-degree reflectivity and a forgiving fit that’s ideal for those who need more room.

Altura uses a smooth Lycra fabric on the front and rear panels along with wide mesh side/under-arm panels to help with breathability when you’re working hard.

There’s a full-length front zip with flap that helps with comfort, but it doesn’t have any garages top or bottom. That said, we didn’t get any neck irritation during testing.

Three well-located pockets, along with zipped valuables pocket, provide ample storage for your essentials. We did get some sagging with heavier loads though. The rear drop tail features a silicone grip hem that does a good job of stopping the Icon riding up. A solid performing, yet forgiving, jersey.

Altura also produces a women’s version in a similar variety of designs.

B’Twin Triban RC 100 Warm Weather Jersey

• Sizes: S–XXL
• Colours: Black, Navy, Red/Black, Turquoise, White
• Price: £18 / $25

It’s hard not to be impressed by the RC-100’s low price-tag and user-friendly features. It has a forgiving cut but isn’t overly flappy.

The jersey’s designed specifically for warm-weather riding using recycled fibres and it breathes well. Temperature control is further enhanced by under-arm mesh panels and a full-length front zip. This features a zip garage at the bottom to protect your shorts, and though there isn’t one on the neck, we didn’t experience any irritation. Adjustment is made easier by the addition of simple tags. While a little crude, they work fine.

The rear is dropped, featuring a mesh panel with inner silicone to hold it in place. There’s ample storage with three decent-sized pockets, a zipped pocket and two side pockets to keep gels in.

B’Twin also offers low-priced women’s cycling jerseys, such as the Triban RC500 Women’s Short Sleeve Jersey.

Castelli Hors Categorie Jersey

• Sizes: XS–XXXL
• Colours: Dark Grey, Dark Steel Blue, Red, Vortex Grey, Yellow
• Price: £100 / $140 / €100

Designed for hard, hot days in the saddle the Hors Categorie uses Castelli’s Velocity Rev3 fabric on the main panels with a cool mesh on the rear and wider mesh side panels. The result is a cool jersey that performs in warm weather. The front zip with neck garage provides further temperature control.

The arms are cut long without any fancy cuffs or raw ends, but ride comfortably and help with longevity. A drop tail with silicone detail helps the Hors Categorie to sit pretty. The overall cut is fitted and most will need to size up.

The three well-supported rear pockets are perfectly located and easy to access on the fly. There’s a zip valuables pocket too. A high-performing yet practical and robust jersey.

Castelli doesn’t do a women’s-specific version of the Hors Categorie jersey, but it does offer a wide selection women’s jerseys.

dhb Aeron Short Sleeve Jersey

• Sizes: XS–XXL
• Colours: Black, Blue, Orange, Purple, Red, Turquoise
• Price: £55 / $70 / AU$90 / €65

The Italian-made Aeron is a well thought-out summer jersey with many top design characteristics. It’s good looking, fits true to size and delivers a forgiving yet comfortable ride. dhb uses a lightweight yet durable dimpled mesh fabric that helps to keep you cool and dry when temperatures rise.

The centre back panel features wider mesh to increase breathability. It also features UPF40+ treatment for sun protection and an anti-bacterial treatment to stop it stinking.

The neck is comfortable despite the lack of a zip garage. Laser-cut arm grippers do their job well and provide an air of class. Three decent-sized pockets and a zip pocket provide ample carrying capacity but sit higher than some. A silicone hem helps to hold the rear in place. An impressive performer, considering its low price.

The women’s-specific version is the same price and features a similarly bold design.

Pearl Izumi Interval Jersey

• Sizes: XS–XXL
• Colours: Pine/Atomic Red Transform, Navy/White Beval, White/Wet Weather Triad
• Price: £125 / $125

The Interval is a minimalist, high-performance and neat-looking race jersey. It has a next-to-skin fit with a silky feel inside and out thanks to the Italian knit Elite Transfer fabric that breathes well.

This mesh material has lots of stretch for a good fit and is relatively robust compared to some minimalist jerseys. There’s a Coldblack treatment to reflect heat on warm days.

The rear hem has a silicone liner to keep it in place and three well-located pockets sit above this. These have bonded tops and inner support patches on the high stress points, but there’s no zip pocket in keeping with the sleek design.

The overall cut on this low-neck jersey is fitted but is more generously sized than some of the Italian brands.

An equivalent jersey designed for female riders is also available from Pearl Izumi

Q36.5 L1 Pinstripe X Jersey

• Sizes: XS–XXL
• Colours: Black Grey, Orange, Purple, Navy
• Price: £142 / €162

Q36.5 was started by former Assos designer Luigi Bergamo, so it has a great pedigree, and the L1 is all about modern materials and tech.

The three-dimensional fabric increases the surface area to aid wicking, while the striped silver thread’s high-thermal conductivity is said to increase breathability and help reduce odours. It’s also claimed to minimise electrostatic allowing muscles to operate more effectively, but it’s hard to quantify on the road.

It has a race cut and features longer raw-end sleeves, a low neck and full-length zip with a short-protecting lower garage. Storage is good and the ‘hidden’ pockets are not only easy to access but in keeping with the minimalist design. Beautifully made and quick drying, but at a price!

Q36.5 also produces this jersey in a women’s-specific cut.

Buyer’s guide to cycling jerseys

Why should I wear a cycling jersey?

Whether or not you’ll be happier in a dedicated cycling jersey really depends on what kind of riding you’re looking to do.

Do you want to ride fast or efficiently, without wasting watts? If so, a properly fitted cycling jersey is going to serve you best.

If you’re more interested in taking it easy and staying casual, or you’re looking to stop off in shops and towns mid-ride, then there’s nothing wrong with wearing your normal clothes, or a mix of cycling-specific clothes and normal clothes.

Just be mindful that if it rains or you get sweaty, everday clothes aren’t designed to be as breathable or quick drying as cycling-specific kit.

Fit, fabrics and aerodynamics

It’s well established that tight, close fitting kit is more aerodynamically efficient than loose, baggy clothing. It’s been proven in the wind tunnel, but it’s also easy enough to test yourself – just go out in a baggy top, the increased air resistance is obvious.

What’s less well known is that both the type of fabric and the placement of seams can also have an effect on the aerodynamic efficiency of cycling jerseys.

These jerseys are often more complex and expensive to design and manufacture than standard jerseys though, so you’ll likely need to cough up some extra cash to get your hands on them.

The Souplesse Aero Women’s Jersey by Rapha is a great example. It performs excellently, but the price is accordingly high.

They arguably represent a good value performance upgrade though, because aero jerseys can have a relatively large effect on how aerodynamic you are but cost much less than aero road bikes or wheels.

• How much faster are aero jerseys?

On the other hand, if you’re not fussed about optimising your aerodynamic efficiency, a lightly looser jersey might be more comfortable and offer a little more breathability in hot weather.

Just be wary when sizing up that if a jersey is too big for you, the rear pockets might sag a bit when full of stuff.

Other than the fact that it doesn’t look amazing, it’s not a huge problem, but it will likely make the pockets a bit harder to reach while riding.

How much money do I need to spend on a cycling jersey?

It depends on your goals. Lower priced jerseys tend to be perfectly functional but are most often targeted at non-racers, so if you’re looking for a very tight fit you may need to size down.

Higher priced jerseys have usually been subject to more in-depth research and development, possibly using wind tunnel or real world testing to refine the fit and aerodynamics. You may also get more advanced fabrics with features such as protection from UV rays.

Styling also tends to improve as the price increases because premium brands invest more in design and aesthetics, but this is obviously subjective so we’ll leave it up to you to make the ultimate call on that.

Replica kits and funky cycling jerseys, hot or not?

Unlike other sports, cycling has a curiously muted relationship with amateurs wearing replica pro team kits.

The traditional idea was that you’re supposed to have earned the right to wear a professional team kit, by literally becoming a professional. The reality probably has more to do with the fact that many cycling teams aren’t location based, and don’t tend to stick around for long enough to generate a loyal following of fans who might wish to buy such kit.

It’s also perhaps fair to say that professional cycling jerseys, often covered in gaudy brand logos as they are, aren’t always the most stylish option for many.

For some though, pro team kit can be a way to show off their appreciation for the more obscure side of our wonderful sport. Once these designs have aged enough to be retro, they’re also a sure fire way to prove your knowledge of cycling history.

• Ten retro jerseys we love

The wearing of World Champions or race leaders jerseys, like the famous Yellow, Green and Polka Dot jerseys of the Tour de France is similarly contentious. Like with pro team kit, it’s often argued these jerseys should be reserved for racers who have ‘earned’ the right to wear them.

If you’ve been inspired by a hero who’s worn these jerseys, and wearing one makes you feel a little bit special, then don’t let anyone hold you back.

Tacky holiday jerseys (yes, they are a thing) and other novelty jerseys also hold a well established place in our sport. While you perhaps wouldn’t see many BikeRadar staff in them, they serve as a wonderful reminder not to take things too seriously. Cycling is supposed to be fun, after all.

Wilier Triestina’s Cento10 Pro is the brand’s pro-level aero machine available to team riders at Wilier-sponsored Astana. Up until now, the Italian brand’s more affordable aero option has been the Cento1 Air, but today the Cento10 SL has been introduced.

In its time, the Cento1 was a cutting-edge aero machine but the design is now six years old. In that time, Wilier says the Cento1 has accounted for 17 per cent of its road bike sales, making its replacement of huge importance to the brand.

So Wilier has brought the more recent design and tech of the Cento10 to a range starting at £2,450 / €2,700 for the Shimano 105-equipped rim brake model.

The new Cento10 SL, as its known, is struck from the same moulds as the Pro-level bike but uses a more modest carbon configuration and sees some tweaks to the design at the lower the price.

Heavier but stiffer

The SL’s down tube is a NACA (National Advisory Committee for Aeronautics) truncated Kammtail shape, with the slim tail section chopped off. This shape “cheats” the air into believing that the tail is still there.

For a tube section to be efficient aerodynamically, it’s important that the air flowing over the surface remains attached to it. When airflow separates, it creates “separated flow” and relative drag in the opposite direction of the structure’s movement.

Wilier rather surprisingly claims the SL version of the Cento10 frame actually improves torsional stiffness over its much more expensive cousin. Wilier hasn’t put any figures on this, though.

Elsewhere, the SL uses the same moulds as the Pro model and so it shares the same 28mm tyre clearances front and rear for the rim brake model, and 30mm for the disc version. 28mm tyres are fitted as standard.

The frame weighs in at a claimed 1,190g (painted, finished medium frame) compared to the Pro’s claimed 990g, so think of the SL as the Specialized Expert to the Pro’s S-Works, or Giant TCR Advanced to TCR Advanced SL.

Wilier Cento10 SL geometry

The SL remains true to the Pro’s super-aggressive racing geometry. Our disc brake test bike (XL) comes with a low 571mm stack and long 396mm reach (for other sizes see the geometry chart below).

The disc and rim brake bikes share the same geometry, apart from L, XL and XXL disc brakes models which gain a couple of millimetres in chainstay length and wheelbase.

We’ve listed the disc brake geometry below.

Aero-winged cockpit

The other cost-saving over the Pro model comes from the cockpit. Rather than use Wilier’s slick (but expensive – around €800 aftermarket) Alabarda one-piece design, the marque has worked in conjunction with long-standing component partners Ritchey.

The relationship between the two iconic brands stems back to the Team Lampre days, when Ritchey and Wilier were co-sponsors, and the result of the latest collaboration is a bar and stem called the Stemma SL and Barra SL respectively.

The Barra SL (claimed weight 320g in a 42cm width) features an aero-winged top but a traditional 31.8mm diameter clamp, with a couple of inches each side of the clamp to enable compatibility with clip-on tri bars.

The integrated cable routing of the bar is designed to exit and flow straight into the Ritchey Stemma SL’s under-stem routing, with the cables cradled in a carbon fibre channel that flows everything down through the steerer tube.

The system is quite similar to both Cervélo’s internal routing seen on the new Caledonia endurance bike and on Orbea’s latest Orca and Avant bikes.

The head tube is kept slender, even with the internal cable routing, by the use of a clever headset system that keeps an oversized 1–¼in top and bottom diameter, but with a clever ‘super thin’ bearing that uses much smaller balls than a standard headset (but lots more of them – around 50 per race compared to the standard, which is around 24). We’ve recently seen a similar innovation on 3T’s new do-it-all Exploro RaceMax.

Carbon wheel upgrade

While the upgraded wheels may be branded as Wilier, they are another collaborative effort, this time with Italian component manufacturer Miche.

The made-in-Italy carbon wheels feature a forged alloy hub shell with stainless steel bearings, hand-built using Sapim spokes and nipples. Those spokes are mated to a unidirectional 38mm-deep carbon rim with a blunted aero shape that is 24mm wide (with a 17mm internal dimension).

With tubeless tape ready-fitted, the Wilier NDR38 wheels weigh in at a claimed 1,665g.

2021 Wilier Cento10 SL range

There are 18 models in the new Wilier Cento10 SL range (including wheel upgrades), ranging from £2,430 with Shimano 105, Shimano RS100 wheels and rim brakes, to £5,540 with Shimano Ultegra Di2, Wilier’s carbon wheels and disc brakes.

We’ve got the flagship model in to test and will bring you a review soon. It weighs 7.77kg on our scales.

With Wilier being an Italian brand, there are, of course, Campagnolo options in the range. With Shimano and SRAM specs also included, it’s nice – and rare – to see options from all of the big three.

Wilier Cento10 SL disc brake models

Wilier Cento10 SL Ultegra Di2

Groupset: Shimano Ultegra Di2
Wheels: Wilier NDR38
Price: £5,540 / €5,600

Wilier Cento10 SL Ultegra Di2

Groupset: Shimano Ultegra Di2
Wheels: Shimano RS10
Price: £4,410 / €4,900

Wilier Cento10 SL Force eTap AXS

Groupset: SRAM Force eTap AXS
Wheels: Wilier NDR38
Price: £5,040 / €5,600

Wilier Cento10 SL Force eTap AXS Wide

Groupset: SRAM Force eTap AXS Wide (read more on SRAM’s wide-range Force AXS groupset)
Wheels: Wilier NDR38
Price: £5,040 / €5,600

Wilier Cento10 SL Campagnolo Chorus

Groupset: Campagnolo Chorus
Wheels: Wilier NDR38
Price: £4,680 / €5,200

Wilier Cento10 SL Campagnolo Chorus

Groupset: Campagnolo Chorus
Wheels: Campagnolo Scirocco
Price: £4,410 / €4,900

Wilier Cento10 SL Ultegra

Groupset: Shimano Ultegra
Wheels: Wilier NDR38
Price: £3,960 / €4,400

Wilier Cento10 SL Ultegra

Groupset: Shimano Ultegra
Wheels: Shimano RS10
Price: £3,330 / €3,700

Wilier Cento10 SL Shimano 105

Groupset: Shimano 105
Wheels: Wilier NDR38
Price: £3,375 / €3,750,

Wilier Cento10 SL Shimano 105

Groupset: Shimano 105
Wheels: Shimano RS10
Price: £2,745 / €3,050

Wilier Cento10 SL rim brake models

Wilier Cento10 SL Ultegra Di2

Groupset: Shimano Ultegra Di2
Wheels: Wilier NDR38
Price: £4,850 / €5,400

Wilier Cento10 SL Ultegra Di2

Groupset: Shimano Ultegra Di2
Wheels: Shimano RS100
Price: £4,050 / €4,500

Wilier Cento10 SL Ultegra

Groupset: Shimano Ultegra
Wheels: Wilier NDR38
Price: £3,600 / €4,000

Wilier Cento10 SL Ultegra

Groupset: Shimano Ultegra 8000
Wheels: Shimano RS100
Price: £2,790 / €3,100

Wilier Cento10 SL Campagnolo Chorus

Groupset: Campagnolo Chorus
Wheels: Wilier NDR38
Price: £4,410 / €4,900

Wilier Cento10 SL Campagnolo Chorus

Groupset: Campagnolo Chorus
Wheels: Campagnolo Calima
Price: £3,600 / €4,000

Wilier Cento10 SL Shimano 105

Groupset: Shimano 105
Wheels: Wilier NDR38
Price: £3,240 / €3,600

Wilier Cento10 SL Shimano 105

Groupset: Shimano 105
Wheels: Shimano RS100
Price: £2,430 / €2,700

In the latest episode of our BikeRadar Meets podcast series, we talk to Richard Thorpe, the CEO and founder of British bike brand GoCycle.

BikeRadar’s senior technical editor, Warren Rossiter, chats to Richard about how he went from being a design engineer at Formula One manufacturer McLaren, to creating one of the most innovative urban bikes around.

Richard spent his time at McLaren developing lightweight structures for racing cars and, having previously dabbled in bike design as a hobby, applied that knowledge to GoCycle when the company was launched more than ten years ago.

If you’re not familiar with GoCycle, the electric bike brand started life producing the world’s first injection-moulded magnesium electric folding bike. The company’s most recent innovation, the GoCycle GXi, remains right at the cutting-edge of ebike design and earned four stars in our recent review.

Richard shares his thoughts on all-things GoCycle, from design choices and the challenges of making a bike so unique, to his hopes for cycling as transport and what’s next for GoCycle.

For more from the BikeRadar Podcast, head to our archive page and browse through the back catalogue.

Otherwise, click the buttons below to subscribe to the BikeRadar Podcast via Apple or Spotify, or just search for us on your preferred podcast provider.

The Giant Trance X 29 is a new addition to Giant’s mountain bike line-up for 2021. As a more aggressive sibling of the Trance 29 trail bike, the Trance X 29 features more suspension travel, revised geometry and beefier kit.

It’s interesting to see what Giant is trying to achieve by offering such a model, particularly when you consider that it sits uncomfortably close to the 29in Reign.

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The Trance X 29 frame is easily recognised as a member of the Trance family. The aluminium chassis sees a different version of Giant’s Maestro suspension linkage that now delivers 135mm of rear wheel travel – that’s up 20mm on the regular Trance 29 or 5mm shorter than that of the 27.5in-wheeled Trance.

The suspension increase is mirrored at the front with the Trance X 29 built around a 150mm fork rather than 130mm, as found on the regular Trance 29.

Unusually for Giant, the forged composite suspension rocker used on the new Trance X incorporates a flip chip to adjust the bike’s geometry.

Switching the hardware at the rocker arm allows for a low and high position. The ‘low’ position is designed for faster, more open terrain and sees head and seat angles slacken, the bottom bracket move lower to the ground and the bike’s wheelbase extend.

Conversely, the ‘high’ position steepens head and seat tube angles, raises the bottom bracket (BB) and shortens the wheelbase for a bike that should be more suitable for tighter, slower singletrack.

Diving into the numbers, it’s clear that the adjustable geometry makes quite a difference to the bike’s shape.

The low setting reduces the head angle to 65.5 degrees from 66.23, and also slackens the seat angle from 77.93 to 77.2 degrees. It also increases BB drop to 40mm from 30mm and extends the bike’s wheelbase by around 20mm.

Reach figures are up significantly on the regular Trance 29. For example, a size medium Trance 29 has a reach figure of 442mm while the Trance X 29 in the same size has a reach of either 456mm (low) or 464mm (high) depending on its geometry setting. 

2021 Giant Trance X 29 specifications

The Trance X 29 is officially available in three builds for 2021, but some models will only make it to certain territories.

All bikes feature 1x drivetrains, 780mm handlebars and either 40 or 50mm stems depending on the bike’s size. Giant also ships these bikes as truly tubeless-ready – all you need to do is fill the tyres with sealant and you’re good to go.

The most affordable bike is the $2,300 (international pricing TBC) Trance X 29 3 which features a RockShox 35 Gold RL fork and Fox Float DPS Performance shock, SRAM’s SX Eagle drivetrain and Shimano MT420 disc brakes.

The next model up is the $3,000 Trance X 29 2 which upgrades to a Fox 36 Float Rhythm fork and a groupset that’s mostly Shimano SLX.

The Trance X 29 1 is the range topper, its price is still to be confirmed but it will use a Fox 36 Performance Elite fork and Float DPX2 shock along with a mix of Shimano XT and SLX components.

Yeti’s been on a roll recently, having announced two new models for 2021 already this summer. There’s been the SB115, a beefed-up version of the now-discontinued for 2021 SB100, and the all-new 2021 ARC hardtail that takes its name from Yeti’s past but updates it to the current times.

But what does the rest of Yeti’s 2021 range look like?

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2021 Yeti SB130

The SB130 is Yeti’s do-it-all trail bike that, the Colorado brand claims, is just at home heading downhill as it is going up and at an enduro race or out onto the trails for a day-long epic.

When we last tested the SB130 – which doesn’t appear to have changed for 2021 – we thought that although it bridged the gap in travel between the SB100 and SB150, it didn’t appear to offer any significant weight or speed advantages on the climbs than its bigger sibling.

The 130mm rear wheel travel is mated to a 150mm travel fork, and there’s 29in wheels, a 65.5-degree head tube angle, generous reach figures that span from 430.2mm up to 505.2mm, and a steep 76.9-degree effective seat-tube angle.

Yeti’s SB130 Lunch Ride – which is basically the bike Yeti employees use to get their midday kicks between stints in front of the computer screen — has slightly more relaxed geometry figures with a 65.1-degree head-tube angle.

The SB130 is available in eight different variants that start at $5,200 for the C1 model and go up to $8,600 for the T3 bike.

2021 Yeti SB140

In the same way the the SB130 is a do-it-all trail bike on 29in wheels, the 27.5in-wheeled SB140 looks to replicate that level of conquer-all prowess with the playfulness of smaller hoops that can also tackle big jumps, jibs and punchy descents without wincing.

When we reviewed the SB140 we found it to be very efficient on the climbs as well as impressively capable on the descents, living up to Yeti’s claims.

Geometry-wise, the SB140 runs a 65-degree head-tube angle, long reach figures across the sizes that start at 405.1mm for the XS bike up to 505.1mm for the XL, a steep 77-degree effective seat-tube angle and a 160mm travel fork.

It’s available in five models starting at $5,200 for the C1 going to $8,700 for the T3 full build bike.

2021 Yeti SB150

Touted as Yeti’s big-hitting 29in wheel enduro race rig, the SB150 is designed for top-speed racing and earned our critical acclaim when we tested it in 2018.

Since then, the bike hasn’t changed a great deal and the 2021 model runs a 64.5-degree head tube angle, spacious 430.2mm to 505.2mm reach figures, and a steep 77-degree effective seat-tube angle.

Along with 150mm of rear wheel travel, the SB150 is matched to a 170mm travel fork and a host of enduro-specific parts no matter the build.

It’s available in five models, the entry-level C1 costs $5,600 while the best-specced T3 will set you back $9,100.

2021 Yeti SB165

The SB165 is Yeti’s 27.5in-wheeled, 165mm travel do-anything bike with an appetite for the gnarliest of descents and biggest jumps. It’s specced with a coil shock and a 180mm travel single crown fork, but is just as happy with a dual crown setup.

Although smaller wheels make less sense than bigger ones than they used to – as we identified in our first ride review of the bike – there’s no denying that for the biggest of sends there’s still a significant place for the SB165.

The SB165 has generous geometry with a 63.5-degree head-tube angle, 77-degree effective seat-tube angle and reach figures that start at 430.1mm for the small and extend to 505.1mm for the extra-large.

There are six models in the 2021 Yeti SB165 lineup starting at $5,500 for the C1 and up to a lofty $8,100 for the T2 Float X2.

2021 Yeti ARC

We’ve previously reported on the 2021 ARC and it looks like a monster hardtail with 29in wheels front and back, a 67-degree head tube angle and generous reach sizes. It’s built around a 130mm travel fork and promises to be a trail-razzing monster.

It’s available in six models costing between £3,799 / $3,500 / €4,290 for the ARC C1 and £8,999 / $9,900 for the ARC Anniversary Edition.

2021 Yeti SB115

Like the ARC, the SB115 is Yeti’s other totally-new (in travel and name only) bike for 2021. It’s a beefed-up version of the now-discontinued SB100 that uses a longer stroke shock to get the 15mm of extra bounce without increasing frame weight in the process. This is because the SB115’s frame is nigh-on identical to the SB100 it replaces.

It has a 67.5-degree head-tube angle and a 74-degree seat angle with a 450.6mm reach that puts it firmly in downcountry territory.

The 2021 SB115 is available in five models from £4,899 / $4,700 / €5,590 for the least-expensive C1 to $8,000 for the T3 bike ($8,600 with AXS, $9,400 with carbon wheels, $9,900 with both upgrades).

Canyon’s latest flagship race bike is called the Ultimate CFR and it sports a frame weighing a claimed 641g, with complete bikes starting at 6.2kg.

CFR stands for Canyon Factory Racing and it looks like this is Canyon’s attempt to create a halo brand for its very best bikes, much the way Specialized designates its pro-level machines as S-Works and Cannondale uses the Black Inc label. 

The Ultimate CFR comes with some truly impressive claimed stats, but closer reading reveals they’re the same numbers Canyon published last year with the launch of the remarkable Ultimate CF EVO Disc, a bike we subsequently reviewed in a mouth-watering SRAM Red eTap AXS spec.

What definitely has changed between last year’s EVO and this year’s CFR is the builds, with Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 and Campagnolo Super Record EPS specs for £7,149 and £8,499 respectively. 

Canyon Ultimate CFR: ultralight disc frame, Evo-like specs

According to Canyon, “the pursuit of lightness has always been, and shall remain, a key yardstick in road bike performance”. 

Just like the Evo, the Ultimate CFR has disc brakes and a claimed frame weight of 641g (size medium including paint but without “small parts”, i.e. hardware), with a 285g fork. This compares to 785g and 325g respectively for the Ultimate CF SLX Disc.

Incidentally, the Ultimate CFR is disc-only, but Canyon says the rim brake Ultimate CF will be sticking around for now.

Canyon likes to quote stiffness-to-weight figures and the CFR’s figure is a claimed 137 (same as the Evo), versus 125 for the Ultimate CF SLX Disc.

These figures are apparently achieved using a combination of ultra-high modulus (UHM) and ultra-high tension (UHT) carbon.

The Ultimate CFR also gets the same 270g (claimed) CP20 one-piece carbon cockpit as the Evo. 

Alternatively, the Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 model weighs a claimed 6.5kg and gets 50mm-deep DT Swiss ARC 1100 Dicut wheels. 

Riders also have the option of a frameset that includes that lightweight CP20 cockpit, plus a Schmolke carbon seatpost. 

While Canyon describes the Ultimate CFR as “a bike for all roads, not just for racing”, it will be the ride of choice for Canyon-sponsored climbers, while sprinters will likely stick with the Aeroad, which it seems likely will receive an update imminently. 

Canyon Ultimate CFR prices and specs

The Ultimate CFR is available now in two builds or as a frameset, with full details as follows:

Canyon Ultimate CFR Disc Di2

• Claimed weight: 6.5kg
• Groupset: Shimano Dura-Ace Di2
• Wheels: DT Swiss ARC 1100 Dicut 
• Price: £7,149 / €7,599 / AU$11,899

Canyon Ultimate CFR Disc EPS

• Claimed weight: 6.2kg
• Groupset: Campagnolo Super Record EPS
• Wheels: DT Swiss PRC 1100 25 Y Anniversary
• Price: £8,499 / €8,999 / AU$14,099

Canyon Ultimate CFR frameset

• Claimed weight: 641g frame, 285g fork
• Includes: Schmolke 1K carbon seatpost, CP20 one-piece carbon cockpit
• Price: £3,299 / €3,499 / AU$5,499

Gravel bikes have largely stolen cyclocrossers’ thunder, but we still have an affection for curly-barred barrier-hopping antics, which is exactly what the All-City Macho King A.C.E. is designed for. 

Sold as a frameset or a complete bike with SRAM Rival 1× gearing, the Macho King is built from All-City’s proprietary A.C.E. steel tubing, which the brand says allows its engineers to customise the tubing for each bike’s needs.

We’ve got the frameset here, and it’s pretty stunning thanks to that glorious splatter paintjob.

While you could certainly build the Macho King into a capable gravel bike, there are key spec details that betray its racy ‘cross intentions. 

The top tube is ovalised for easy shouldering and, unlike the gravel and adventure bikes All-City also makes, there isn’t a mudguard or luggage mount in sight on the frame. 

The geometry is reasonably racy too. This 52cm frame (medium-ish) has 382mm of reach and 566mm of stack. 

It’s the details that really give the Macho King its appeal. The logo seat clamp is delightful, as is the engraved head badge, and the bottle bosses feature subtle reinforcement. 

All-City is proud of its paint too. All the brand’s framesets get a phosphorous bath prior to painting, followed by an “electrophoretic deposition” (ED) coating, which uses the magic of electricity to stick an initial layer of paint to the frame and adds a base layer of rust protection. 

This is followed by layers of conventional wet paint and, finally, a UV-resistant clear coat. The end result is a finish that really shines.

Being steel, the All-City isn’t exactly super light. I can’t tell you exactly what this 52cm frameset weighs because it’s currently locked in BikeRadar’s Covid-shuttered office, but All-City says a 55cm frame weighs 1,745g, while a complete frameset with thru-axles comes in at 2,379g.

Would you fancy racing cyclocross on some stylish steel? How would you build yours?

The brand new 2021 Canyon Sender CFR downhill bike promises to bring tech developed on the World Cup race circuit to the masses, including adjustable reach and chainstay lengths, compatibility with 29in wheels front and back or a mullet set-up, increases in suspension progressivity and a reduction in pedal kickback.

• Mountain bike wheel sizes: 26in, 650b and 29in explained
• The ultimate guide to bike geometry and handling

Its also gets plenty of mechanic-friendly touches, too. These include replaceable and removable thread inserts, double-sealed bearings and easy access pivots, so working on the Sender CFR should be a total doddle, even for the most mechanically-inept.

Because the Sender’s been redesigned with input from Canyon’s Factory Racing teams – so that’s Troy Brosnan, Kye A’Hern, Mark Wallace and for 2020 Jack Moir, now also joined by FMD Racing with a roster that includes siblings Tahnée and Kaos Seagrave — the German brand has also re-named the bike to represent its racing pedigree, adding ‘CFR’, which stands for, yep you guessed it, Canyon Factory Racing.

2021 Canyon Sender CFR frame details

At the heart of Canyon’s claims that the Sender CFR is the “best race bike possible” is its brand-new all-carbon frame.

Unlike the outgoing model that had alloy chainstay and seat stays, the 2021 Sender CFR’s front and rear triangles are now made entirely from carbon fibre.

Every gram matters

Canyon claims the carbon used in the Sender CFR is its “lightest and best possible carbon construction” shaving just over 600g from the previous bike.

Canyon says it’s managed to make these savings thanks to not only switching the stays to carbon fibre but by moving the front triangle shock mount from the top tube to the down tube.

This meant the bike’s top tube could be slimmed down because it was no longer needed to perform structural duties where the shock mounts, therefore helping reduce weight.

And because the down tube was already beefy, less additional material was needed to increase its strength to support the shock where it now mounts.

Canyon’s also reduced weight by studying and modifying every element of the bike, such as its linkages, to shave even more grams. The linkage has also been simplified and now attaches to the down tube.

Although weight saving was an important goal, moving the shock mount to the down tube has also lowered the Sender CFR’s centre of gravity, which should help improve cornering and general handling.

Mullet possibilities

Like the majority of Canyon’s bikes seeing smaller wheel sizes on smaller sized frames, the Sender follows suit. While the large and extra-large bikes use a pure 29in wheel setup front to back, the small and medium Sender CFR have a mullet setup, where the front wheel is 29in and the rear 27.5in.

On the large and extra-large bikes, it is possible to run it in mullet mode, too. This will be down to the rider’s preferences and course conditions, but we’re seeing the trend of having mullet and pure 29in wheel setups take hold on a number of production downhill bikes such as Specialized’s Demo and Commencal’s Supreme DH.

Although the chainstays are adjustable on all bike’s sizes (more on the adjustable geometry shortly), the small and medium bikes have shorter chainstays than the larger bikes, which means Canyon doesn’t officially endorse using 29in wheels in the rear ends of the 2021 Sender CFR.

However, I’d be happy to speculate that there should be enough tyre clearance to run a wagon wheel in the longer chainstay setting on the small and medium bikes.

Workshop marvel

The 2021 Sender CFR has also been designed to be workshop and privateer friendly. Canyon’s been very careful to design the bike’s pivots so they’re all easily accessible without needing to be a contortionist.

It uses double-sealed bearings and the captive nuts for the shock mounts and pivot bolts are user-replaceable. This means a stripped thread or damage from an overtightened bolt won’t potentially write off the frame. The captive nuts can be replaced and the frame rejuvenated.

The internal cable routing has full-length guides so changing gear cables or brake hoses should be as easy as a bike with externally-routed cables.

2021 Canyon Sender CFR suspension details

The 2021 Sender CFR has 200mm of rear-wheel travel across its sizes and uses a metric 250 x 75mm shock, a change from the old bike.

Along with the Sender’s rear shock moving downwards, Canyon has also tweaked its suspension kinematics.

The changes result in “an exact replica of what the team races”, where the suspension is more progressive compared to the old Sender and increased progressivity should help improve bottom-out control. Canyon hasn’t stopped there, though.

• The ultimate guide to mountain bike rear suspension systems

The 2021 Sender CFR’s pedal kickback – how much the cranks rotate backwards as the suspension compresses – has been reduced by 60 per cent compared to the old bike. Canyon says this is to help decrease rider fatigue and improve suspension action over bumps because the suspension is freer to move.

Canyon claims it’s managed to do this with careful main pivot placement without the need for an idler pulley.

2021 Canyon Sender CFR geometry details

Following Canyon’s smaller wheels on smaller size bikes ethos, the Sender CFR has shorter chainstay lengths on the small and medium sized bikes. The chainstays have two positions; a shorter 430mm setting and a longer 440mm setting.

On the large 29in-wheeled bike, the chainstays’ two positions start at 440mm and extend to 450mm.

The chainstays aren’t the only adjustable part of the bike.

The reach figure – thanks to offset headset cups — can be altered by 8mm either side of the quoted stock figure. This means, Canyon says, that riders who were traditionally between sizes now have the chance to customise the fit of the Sender to suit their needs.

Elsewhere, the head angle sits at 63 degrees across frame and wheel sizes, while the bottom bracket height with stock tyres is 352mm.

Reach figures start at 427mm for the size small with a -8mm cup and extend up to 518mm for the size large with a +8mm cup.

Canyon also says it’s steepened the seat-tube angle slightly to accommodate the larger back wheel and it now sits at 60 degrees for the small and medium bikes and 60.5 degrees for the large and extra-large models.

2021 Canyon Sender CFR models

Available in two build kits, the 2021 Sender CFR models are replicas of the bike used by Canyon’s World Cup race teams.

The Sender CFR FMD is equipped with Fox suspension, Schwalbe tyres and Shimano brakes and drivetrain, and replicates the bikes ridden by The Canyon Collective FMD – formerly FMD racing. So that’ll be Tahnée and Kaos Seagrave.

Canyon Factory Racing’s Troy Brosnan, Mark Wallace, Kye A’Hern and Jack Moir ride the Sender CFR build that features RockShox suspension, Maxxis tyres and SRAM brakes and drivetrain.

Canyon is still going to offer the aluminium Sender that’s based on the original Sender design as a more affordable option.

2021 Canyon Sender CFR prices

The 2021 Canyon Sender CFR FMD retails for €4,699, while the 2021 Canyon Sender CFR retails for €5,799.

2021 Canyon Sender CFR FMD

• Frame: M086 carbon fibre, 200mm travel
• Fork: Fox 40 Performance Elite
• Shock: Fox DHX2 Performance Elite
• Groupset: Shimano Saint, 10-speed
• Brakes: Shimano Saint, 203mm rotors
• Wheels: DT Swiss 350 hubs on FR2020 rims
• Tyres: Schwalbe Magic Mary 2.35in Super Gravity
• Handlebars/stem: Canyon G5 Al / Canyon G5
• Saddle/seatpost: Ergon SMD20 / Canyon G5
• Sizes: Small, medium, large, extra-large
• Price: €4,699

2021 Canyon Sender CFR

• Frame: M086 carbon fibre, 200mm travel
• Fork: RockShox Boxxer Ultimate
• Shock: RockShox Super Deluxe Ultimate
• Groupset: SRAM X0 DH, 7-speed
• Brakes: SRAM Code RSC, 200mm rotors
• Wheels: DT Swiss 240 hubs on FR560 rims
• Tyres: Maxxis Minion DHRII 2.4in Wide Trail, DH casing
• Handlebars/stem: Canyon G5 CF / Canyon G5
• Saddle/seatpost: Ergon SMD20 / Canyon G5
• Sizes: Small, medium, large, extra-large
• Price: €5,799

Wahoo has updated its flagship direct-drive smart trainer, the Kickr, and claims it’s now more accurate than ever before and offers an improved ride feel.

Now in its fifth generation, the 2020 Kickr builds upon the previous model’s established form factor but adds an improved claimed power accuracy rating of +/- 1 per cent (+/- 2 per cent on the previous model) and redesigned feet that enable the trainer to tilt slightly for a more natural ride feel.

The price for the new model is unchanged at £999.99 / $1,199 / €1,199.99 / AU$1,799.95.

We’ve been using this latest model for a few weeks now, so once you’ve finished reading this article, don’t forget to check out our full review of the new Wahoo Kickr.

Improved accuracy and auto-calibration

In addition to the previously mentioned improved power meter error margin, Wahoo also claims a new auto-calibration feature removes the need to perform regular spin down calibrations (although the option to do so remains).

Wahoo says it does this by continually monitoring the trainer’s internal temperature, speed and resistance. This enables the Kickr to calculate the level of friction in the system and automatically adjust the calibration level of the internal power meter as you’re riding.

Kickr Axis feet

These will also be available to purchase separately to upgrade existing Kickr trainers at an RRP of £64.99 / $79.99  / €79.99.

More of the same

Aside from the new feet and updated power meter accuracy, much of the spec remains unchanged compared to the previous Kickr.

It has a max power of 2,200 watts and can supply enough resistance to simulate gradients of up to 20 per cent.

It ships with a Shimano/SRAM 11-speed freehub and an 11-28-tooth cassette is included in the box. As before, Campagnolo and XDR / XD freehubs are available to purchase separately for £49.99 / $69.99 / 659.99 and £59.99 / $69.99 / €59.99 respectively.

At the time of launch, Shimano Micro Spline freehubs are not available, but Wahoo told us it is monitoring demand for this, suggesting one may be available in the future (perhaps after the release of the next generation of Shimano Dura-Ace).

The 7.25kg flywheel is also height adjustable to enable compatibility with 24in, 26in, 27.5in/650b, 650c and 29in/700c wheel sizes.

Device compatibility also remains unchanged. It can communicate with iOS, Mac, Android and Windows devices via Bluetooth, ANT+ and ANT+ FE-C.

As before, the new Kickr can also be used with Wahoo’s array of turbo trainer accessories, including the Kickr Climb and Kickr Fan.

• Wahoo Kickr smart trainer (2020) review

Shimano’s electronic groupsets give you crisp, precise gear shifts and are now commonplace on the bikes of professional cyclists. Shimano Di2 is also a popular option for riders buying a new bike or upgrading their current groupset.

However, there’s a lot more Shimano Di2 can do for you besides replicating a cable-operated groupset but with electronic shifts. There are plenty of small adjustments and custom configurations you can make to keep your Di2 shifting smooth and get the most out of an electronic groupset.

We talked to Julian Thrasher, head of training at Shimano’s UK distributor, Madison, to find out more. He’s an authority on Shimano Di2 and gave us his top tips for Di2 setup and using an electronic groupset.

How to check charge levels

It’s easy to check your Di2 battery’s charge level: hold down a shifter for half-a-second or more and the LEDs on your Di2 junction box will flash.

The junction box on road bikes can be located under the stem, in the end of the handlebars or, on some bikes, mounted in the frame.

If your battery level is at 100 per cent, you will see a continuous green LED. At 50 per cent or above, the green LED will blink five times. Once you get to between 50 per cent and 25 per cent, you’ll see a continuous red LED. Drop below this and you’ll see a blinking red LED displayed.

When the charge does get very low, your front mech will stop shifting first, leaving you with the rear derailleur only to get you home. It means that you won’t be left totally in the lurch by a low battery.

That said, a fully charged battery should get you thousands of kilometres.

How to set up and trim your rear derailleur

Start by shifting the derailleur into the smallest chainring (if running a 2x) and the largest sprocket of the cassette. Use the end adjustment screw to position the pulley wheels closer to the cassette teeth making sure that the chain does not jam.

If your rear derailleur is rubbing against the chain or not shifting precisely, you can trim it to adjust shifting for smoother, quieter operation.

First, you need to set the front mech to the small chainring and the rear to the fifth largest sprocket. You’ll then have to enter the system’s adjustment mode.

That’s done for road bikes by pressing the button on the junction box until the red LED lights up. If you’ve got a display unit on your mountain bike, you can select adjustment mode here by pressing the display button once.

You can then use the up and down rear mech shift levers to micro-adjust the position of your derailleur as you spin the cranks. Once you’ve got your rear mech running sweetly, press the junction box/controller button again to exit adjustment mode.

You’ll need to check that the high and low limit screws on your derailleur are set correctly and may need to adjust them too. This is important because poorly set limit screws can lead to excessive battery drain and damage to the derailleurs.

Shift the derailleur into the largest cassette sprocket and set the low limit screw until it just makes contact with (but does not move) the derailleur linkage.

Next, shift to the smallest cassette sprocket and adjust the high limit screw until it lightly contacts the linkage, as with the low limit screw, but then back the screw off one full turn to allow the derailleur to over-stroke (a feature that improves the shift speed)

How to set up and trim your front derailleur

First you need to set the high limit screw. Set the chain on the largest chainring and smallest sprocket and adjust the clearance so there is a very small gap (around 1mm) between the cage and the chain.

You can then trim the front derailleur. Set the bike to the small chainring at the front and largest sprocket on the cassette. Again, enter adjustment mode as described for the rear derailleur and then use the front mech shifter levers to fine-tune the mech position until there is a very small gap between the chain and derailleur.

Once you’ve made the adjustment, exit adjustment mode and check that you can shift through all gear combinations without the front derailleur rubbing.

You can also connect up your bike to a computer, phone or tablet (see below for how to do this) and perform trim operations using Shimano’s e-Tube Project software.

Crash mode

If your rear derailleur stops working after a spill or a bash, it may have gone into crash mode, where the motor disengages to prevent damage.

To get it going again, you need to press and hold the button on your junction box for five seconds. Once the red light flashes, spin the cranks and the derailleur will shift through the gears to reset itself.

Don’t expect your derailleur to run sweetly again if you’ve sustained more serious damage like a bent mech hanger – you’ll need to get that checked out.

Checking your cables

Di2 cables are delicate and even invisible damage may stop them from working, so check them regularly for signs of wear. If you’re disconnecting and reconnecting them, use the Shimano tool provided (model code TL-EW02).

Although the system is weatherproof, you can still get dirt in the ports, so it’s a good idea to unplug the cables and clean the ports periodically using a cotton bud, particularly if you’re experiencing shifting problems.

Mixing and matching road and MTB components

In general, you can mix mountain bike and road bike Di2 components as long as the shifters are both from the same family, e.g. using GRX Di2 shifters paired to XT derailleurs or vice versa.

That gives you the option, for example, to run a flat-bar road bike with MTB Di2 shifters and a display, or a gravel bike with an XTR Di2 rear mech, which in turn opens up the option of wider gear ranges.

If you want to do this, check the latest version of Shimano’s compatibility chart.

How to use Shimano’s e-Tube Project software

The key to getting more from your Di2 set up is Shimano’s e-Tube Project software. You can download this to your Windows PC (but not a Mac).

Now plug your bike into your computer using the battery charger to link it up to a USB port. This opens up a whole new world of functionality for your Di2 system, which we’ll run through below.

You can also run e-Tube Project software on an Android or Apple phone or tablet, but you’ll need a Wireless Unit in your bike to connect up. Not all Di2-equipped bikes come fitted with one – see below for further info.

Firmware updates

The e-Tube Project software lets you update your groupset’s firmware. It’s a one-click option to check that you’re on the latest version and install the update if not.

It’s worth keeping your firmware up to date, to get the latest functionality and bug fixes.

Hardware identification

Shimano’s e-Tube Project software will automatically recognise the different components of your Di2 setup.

That includes the derailleurs and shifters as well as the battery and wireless and control units. Plus it will detect other components that are part of the wider system, such as Di2-compatible suspension units.

Changing and customising shifting modes

Once you’ve connected to e-Tube Project, you can use it to alter how your shifting works. That includes changing what the individual buttons on your shifters do and how many gears your rear mech will shift up and down if you hold down the shift lever.

You can also set up synchronised and semi-synchronised shifting, while electric bikes with Shimano’s Steps motor equipped with a Di2 specific internal hub gear can be set up to shift automatically.

Synchronised shifting means that you just use one shifter button to shift up gears and another to shift down. Once you reach a point on your cassette specified via the software, Di2 will swap you between chainrings and at the same time change rear gears to give you the next ratio.

There are two factory presets you can use, but you can also specify at what point on the cassette the chainrings will shift up and down.

If you go for semi-synchronised shifts, your rear mech will make a compensating gear shift when you decide to change between chainrings, so you’re not trying to turn too high or too low a gear immediately after the shift. You can select how many sprockets the rear mech shifts up or down when you change chainrings.

To alternate between semi-synchronised and fully synchronised modes (and manual mode) when out riding, press the button on the junction box or display twice. On a road bike the lights will flash according to which mode you are in (a stationary flash for full manual, two flashes for semi-synchro and three for full synchro).

On a mountain bike with a display you can switch between the S1, S2 and M setting.

Satellite shifter setup

If you want the option to shift gears from your bar tops, the drops or tri bars, Shimano sells a range of different Di2 satellite shifters.

The wired satellite shifters plug into the backs of the main shift levers, with the wires run under the bar tape or through the tri bars to where you want them positioned.

Wireless connectivity

Your Di2 bike can connect wirelessly to your phone and other bike hardware such as a GPS unit using either Bluetooth, ANT+ or both.

But to do this, it needs the Di2 Wireless Unit (commonly known as a ‘D-Fly’ unit or by its model code, EW-WU111) to connect up. Not all Di2 bikes come with this because it’s an optional component, and not all Di2 junction boxes are compatible.

So, if you don’t have one, you’ll need to buy it and have it fitted into your Di2 wiring harness. It’s a fairly simple process to plug it into one of your shifter wires.

Linking up to other bike hardware

Di2 can be used as the gateway to a lot of other bike hardware, including many GPS bike computers, although you’ll usually need wireless connectivity.

If you use synchronised shifting or you’ve got a single front chainring, you’ll have two shifter levers that you don’t need to use to control your gears.

You can assign these to use for other things, using e-Tube Project to set up the shifter in D-Fly mode. Some road and all GRX Di2 shifters have a third button under the hood which you can also programme to work as D-Fly controllers.

Many GPS devices from brands including Garmin, Wahoo and Lezyne have a field that will display which front and rear gears you’re using. If you’ve got a compatible Shimano Steps ebike, you can get battery level, range and system status info on your GPS screen. Set up unused shifter buttons in D-Fly mode and you can use them to scroll through the screens on your GPS.

You can also link up MTB hardware, such as Fox forks with Live Valve tech, although this hook-up is cabled rather than wireless and uses a separate battery to control the suspension valves.

Get more stats and data

Di2 will provide loads of stats on your rides. If you’ve got a Garmin or Wahoo Elemnt GPS linked up, you can see which gears you’ve been using for how long and how many times you’ve shifted. Plus, you can download a .fit file from your GPS to di2stats.com for additional analysis and visualisation.

Ask an expert

As you’ll have gathered, Di2 setup can be complex if you want to get the most out of the system. There are a lot of options to fine-tune your setup and add extra hardware.

It’s always a good idea to talk to your local Shimano Service Centre and if you’re not sure how to do something, let them handle it for you.

DT Swiss has totally revamped its line of ARC DICUT 1100 and 1400 aero road wheels. Now designed explicitly for disc brake-equipped bikes and, as such, “liberated from the previous installation space restrictions of rim brakes”, DT Swiss reckons this is its most well-rounded aero wheel package to date.

Available in 50, 62 and 80mm depths, the 20mm-wide (internal) wheels are also designed with wider tyres and the increasing popularity of tubeless tech in mind. For smaller riders, a 650b version of the 50mm-deep wheel is available at both levels.

Aero chops

Under its overarching Aero+ design philosophy, DT Swiss has taken into account “translational and rotational drag, rolling resistance and steering moment” to make – what it claims to be – the best all-round aero wheel package on the market.

Alongside aero and handling characteristics, another key objective of the development of the wheels was to bring the ARC range up to date, “incorporating the current trends of disc brakes, [as well as] tubeless and wider tyres”.

The first point is key – previous-generation wheels in DT’s ARC lineup were designed with the constraints of a rim brake in mind, whereas these have been designed with discs alone from the off.

This shift is best reflected in the overall profile of the rims.

Early aero rims were – broadly speaking – aggressively V-shaped. These could be fast in certain conditions, when used with appropriately narrow tyres, but handling suffered in crosswinds.

Trends in rim design then moved towards very blunt profiled and roughly U-shaped rims with squared profiles around the outer circumference to accommodate rim brakes. They were also constrained to narrower overall widths.

The overall profile of the new DICUT 1100 and 1400 rims is best thought of as a combination of the two, with DT Swiss dubbing it a VU-shaped rim.

According to DT Swiss, the design means that as “little turbulence [as possible] occurs at the transition area between rim and tyre”, meaning airflow will “follow the shape of the rim for as long as possible… to delay stalling”.

This, DT claims, is key to producing a predictable and fast wheelset.

The inner width of the rim also grows from 17mm to 20mm. While 20mm isn’t wildy wide compared to some new wheels on the market, it will still give a rounder profile to wider tyres.

Assuming the tyre conforms to the ‘105 per cent rule’, as well as improving handling, this smooths the transition between the tyre and the rim, potentially improving aero performance.

What does all of this aero goodness add up to?

• In DT Swiss’s own testing, the ARC DICUT 1100 52mm-deep wheels (claimed weight 1,472g) were shown to be faster than an ENVE SES 5.6 or Zipp 303 at low yaw angles, though those wheels just beat the DT’s at higher angles
• Compared to a Zipp 404 NSW DB and the aforementioned ENVE wheel, the 62mm version (claimed weight 1,676g) of the wheelset was shown to be faster in DT’s own testing, with “up to 2 watts in aero drag performance”.  At high yaw angles (18 degrees), the wheels are claimed to experience -3 watts of negative drag
• Finally, the ARC 1100 DICUT 80 (claimed weight 1,762g) is claimed to actually “push the cyclist forward with negative drag of up to -7 watts” at yaw angles of 16degrees

While we can only take DT’s word at face value, it’s worth stressing that the white paper that accompanies the wheels is very in-depth, with far more data supplied than a typical wheel launch. Make of that what you will.

Tubeless, naturally

The wheels are – of course, it is 2020 – tubeless compatible, using a standard beaded hook on all rims.

Since it’s a hot trend in road bike tech, we felt duty-bound to ask why DT Swiss has stuck steadfastly with a hooked rim design as opposed to the increasingly popular hookless designs.

• What’s the deal with hookless rims? Why road tubeless standards are a mess and how they’re slowly getting fixed

DT Swiss cited wider and more reliable tyre compatibility, as well as the ability to run higher pressures – without sacrificing the ability to run lower pressures – compared to a hookless design.

Hooked or otherwise, it’s worth remembering there is still no official ISO or ETRTO standard for road tubeless out in the wild. However, our experiences with road tubeless setup on DT Swiss wheels has always been positive, and we expect the same here.

The wheels are aerodynamically optimised around a 25mm tyre but DT adds that, if you want to increase comfort, you could opt for a 28mm tyre on the rear wheel “to optimize rolling resistance and comfort”.

Exactly how using this mixed setup would affect aero performance is not divulged in the press release.

New-flange-eld spokes

Two new spokes have been designed to accompany the new wheels – the DT Swiss Aerolite II and Aerocomp II.

Both feature an updated flattened aero design that, DT claims, can reduce rotational drag by up to 1.1 watt compared to the outgoing DT Aero Comp.

Modest aero savings aside, the spokes are also said to have a higher tensile strength.

We asked if the design of these spokes was influenced by a patent for a novel aero spoke that changed profile along its length that BikeRadar reported on in 2018. The brand confirmed that the work done on that project had fed into this design, but didn’t speculate further, so it’s possible we’ll see more from that patent down the line.

The straight-pull spokes use a proprietary T-head at the hub end. This design has been seen on other high-end DT Swiss wheels and has two distinct advantages.

Unlike conventional straight-pull spokes, the T-head means that these can’t rotate at the hub end, which should ease wheel truing down the line. It also means that the spokes will remain at their most aerodynamic position.

The wheels use a mixture of the new spokes in their construction:

• Front wheel – DT Aerolite II on both sides
• Rear wheel – DT Aerolite II on non-driveside, DT Aero Comp II on driveside

The ARC 1400 wheels use the previous-generation DT Aero Comp spokes throughout.

Catnip for hubsessives

The redesigned 180 hubs are seen on the DICUT 1100 wheels. These are based around DT Swiss’s excellent Ratchet EXP freehub design and spin on ceramic bearings.

These hubs are actually not brand new and were first seen on the brand’s 1,266g Mon Chasseral wheels, which launched back in April.

DICUT 1400 wheels are built around 240-level hubs, which use steel bearings, the same Ratchet EXP freehub and a broadly similar hub shell.

Each wheelset ships with both XDR and Shimano HG freehubs.

DT Swiss ARC DICUT 1100 wheel specs

• Rim inner width: 20mm
• Recommended tyre width: 25mm–28mm
• Rim heights: 80mm / 62mm / 50mm (additional 650b option for ARC 1100 DICUT 50)
• Max system weight: 110kg
• Hub: DT Swiss DICUT 180
• Spokes: DT aerolite II and DT aero comp II
• Price: €2,388 / $3,025 / 2,653 CHF

DT Swiss ARC DICUT 1400 wheel specs

• Rim inner width: 20mm
• Recommended tyre width: 25mm–28mm
• Rim heights: 80mm / 62mm / 50mm
• Max system weight: 110kg
• Hub: DT Swiss DICUT 240
• Spokes: DT aero comp
• Price: €1,957 / $2,479 / 2,175 CHF

Comfort, weather conditions, protection and to some extent personal style determine what to wear for mountain biking.

In general, trail riders and downhill riders tend to opt for baggy kit consisting of loose-fitting shorts with a pair of padded Lycra shorts underneath and a loose-fitting jersey, whereas more race-focused cross-country riders will often go full Lycra.

If you’re just starting out then the best kit is the kit you already have, but as you progress then chances are you’ll want clothing designed for the specific demands of mountain biking.

Ultimately, the choice is totally up to you, and you should wear whatever you feel comfortable in.

Where you ride and the time of year/season will have a significant impact on what you decide to wear. When the weather is warm and the trails (mostly) dry in the middle of summer, you’ll require less protection from the elements than the depths of winter.

You also need to factor in the demands of your ride. If you’re heading off for an all-mountain adventure in the Alps or Rockies, for example, you’ll need to bring more serious kit because you’ll need to make sure you’re prepared for mountain weather conditions.

However, whenever and wherever you’re riding, there are a number of essentials you’re likely to need.

1. Helmet

A helmet is an essential piece of kit for mountain bikers. The chances of slipping, crashing or bumping into a tree or rock are much higher than for commuters or most road cyclists, so head protection is crucial.

Helmets designed specifically for mountain biking generally have an integrated peak, which helps keep sun and rain out of the rider’s eyes and deflect low-hanging branches.

A mountain bike helmet also sits lower around the back and sides of the head to provide better coverage.

For bike parks, downhill riding, and downhill and enduro racing, mountain bikers usually wear a full-face helmet, which offers all-round protection.

Occasionally, full-face helmets are paired with a neck brace, which prevents the head being dangerously thrown back in the event of a big crash – more of an issue for riders doing big jumps and drops.

MIPS technology is increasingly common in mountain bike helmets. MIPS is an additional layer, or slip-plane, inside the helmet designed to reduce the rotational forces on the brain, which can be experienced in certain impacts.

• Best mountain bike helmets for cross-country and trail riding

2. Glasses or goggles

Glasses or goggles are essential for protecting your eyes from sun glare and debris thrown up by your front wheel.

Look for glasses with an interchangeable lens and multiple lens options. This lets you swap the lens out according to the conditions.

A clear lens, for example, is good for riding in dull or dark conditions, while tinted lenses are better for reducing glare or increasing contrast.

Trail riders wear glasses most of the time, but if the weather is particularly grim and muddy, goggles are an alternative option because they provide sealed weather protection with a wide range of vision.

Goggles are usually paired with full-face helmets, though many will fit with regular helmets — colloquially known as going ‘full enduro’.

Most downhillers will wear goggles rather than glasses because they are more secure and offer more protection on long, technical descents.

• Best sunglasses for mountain biking and road cycling

3. Jersey

Most MTB jerseys will have a loose cut and will come in short-sleeve, three-quarter or long-sleeve options.

A short-sleeve jersey will keep you cooler in the heat of summer but a long-sleeve jersey will offer a little more protection for your arms – both from the sun and nettles, thorns and branches. Some long-sleeve jerseys will have mesh panels to improve breathability.

Prices are generally lower than road cycling jerseys, and there’s a huge range of colours and designs out there.

Cross-country mountain bikers tend to wear a Lycra jersey, along the lines of a road cycling jersey, with rear pockets ideal for stowing spare tubes, tools and snacks.

4. Shorts, liner shorts and baggy shorts

Padded shorts are a good idea because mountain biking by its very nature takes place on rough terrain, and riders spend time repeatedly getting in and out of the saddle.

Road-cycling-style bib shorts with a chamois pad are ideal either on their own or, more common for trail riding, as an under layer with a pair of baggy mountain bike shorts over the top.

You can also find padded shorts made of lightweight material or mesh, which are designed to be used just as liners under baggy shorts.

Baggy mountain bike shorts will usually be knee-length and constructed from either a stretchy material or a robust, tear-resistant fabric with stretch panels around the back to allow the shorts to move with the rider. They should also have room for knee pads to fit underneath.

5. Waterproof trousers

If you ride year-round and live somewhere with an inclement climate (like us here in the UK!) then riding trousers will make a big difference in mucky conditions.

Riding trousers will not only help keep you dry, they’ll provide warmth when the temperature drops and stop you getting caked in mud (even if your kit still takes the brunt of it).

Like jackets, riding trousers are normally available in waterproof and water-resistant variants.

The former are likely to be made from a hardshell fabric – the kind of waterproof trousers you might expect to use for hiking – and offer plenty of protection from the rain, but at the cost of breathability.

The latter are more likely to be made from a softshell fabric, offering improved fit and durability as a result, and with a Durable Water Repellent (DWR) treatment to shed rain.

Fit is key when it comes to riding trousers. You want something close enough to avoid the material flapping or getting in the way, but with enough room to not restrict pedalling. An articulated cut will help in that respect, too.

Added extras such as Velcro tabs on the ankles, for a close fit, and abrasion-resistant materials are also useful.

6. Knee pads and other protection

Most riders wear knee pads at a minimum if they’re riding any trail where there’s an above-average chance of taking a spill. Or just for peace of mind.

There are more lightweight options than ever before that offer protection while still being able to pedal comfortably. For more technical riding, there are chunkier pads available.

For racing and technical riding, some mountain bikers will also use other body armour, such as elbow pads and back protectors.

7. Gloves

Full-finger gloves are favoured by the vast majority of mountain bikers and provide more comprehensive protection than mitts.

The coverage provided by full-finger gloves helps protect the hands from crashes and undergrowth, and some gloves will come with padding on the palms to provide additional cushioning.

Gloves aimed at downhill or enduro riders often have more protection on the back of the hands because the likelihood of crashing is much higher for this type of riding.

Gloves can also help with grip because the palm will be designed to provide extra traction on the handlebars

Look for gloves that have carefully-placed grippers, so you’ve got full control over the brakes and shifters.

Full-finger gloves also provide welcome insulation and windproofing in the autumn, winter and spring when riding in cool or wet conditions.

That said, you’ll find a wide range of gloves out there, with lighter options for summer riding and more heavily insulated options for cold conditions.

Investing in a couple of sets of gloves will stand you in good stead and avoid sweaty hands when it’s warm, and freezing hands when it’s chilly.

• Best winter cycling gloves | Keep your hands warm whatever the conditions

8. Socks

As well as being a way of expressing your style, long socks can help protect the shins and calves from scratches and cuts from undergrowth, or from the pedals themselves.

Waterproof socks are popular with mountain bikers who ride in wet conditions because they help keep feet warm and relatively dry when shoes get wet. On the other hand, lightweight, breathable socks will help keep your feet cool in summer.

There’s also the option of putting waterproof shoe covers over the top of riding shoes (most likely if you’re using slim-line shoes for clipless pedals), which adds even more wet weather protection.

• Best cycling socks for style and comfort

9. Shoes

When it comes to contact points — where the rider makes contact with the bike — the shoe/pedal interface is one of the most important.

Riders need to feel secure when riding over rough ground and also be able to pedal efficiently up tough, technical climbs.

There are two choices on offer: flat pedals and clipless pedals.

Lots of trail and cross-country riders will choose to ride clipped in, like road cyclists, with a mechanism that connects a cleat on the sole of the shoe to the pedal.

Clipless shoes look like road cycling shoes but will have a recessed cleat and a chunky tread to allow the rider to walk a little more normally.

Other riders opt to ride with ‘flat’ shoes and pedals, where the pedals have a rough-textured surface and ‘pins’ that project outward to grip the shoes.

Flat pedal shoes tend to look more like skate shoes or trainers, and will usually have a lace-up fastening, normally with an elasticated band to tuck the laces in to.

They also have a sole with a tread pattern that works with the pedal pins and is made from extra-grippy rubber for the same reason.

If you’re riding through the cold, dark months, it’s worth looking at winter mountain bike shoes, made from warm, weatherproof materials.

• Best clipless and flat mountain bike shoes

10. Jacket

As with every other type of cycling, mountain biking can be a year-round activity if you have the right kit.

If the weather starts to look inclement, a jacket will help keep the elements at bay. Still, there’s a wide range of conditions you may encounter so there’s a wide range of mountain bike jackets to choose from.

We’re going to run through three of the main options: a lightweight shell, a hybrid jacket and a fully waterproof jacket.

A lightweight jacket will normally be made of a water-resistant material designed to offer some wind and rain protection, while still retaining breathability, often through mesh panels or perforations in the fabric.

A jacket like this should also be packable, meaning you can take it off if conditions improve and stow it in a backpack. Or you might keep it in your pack just in case the conditions change mid-ride and you need an extra layer.

A hybrid jacket looks to offer the best of all worlds, combining water repellency, warmth and breathability. A good hybrid jacket is likely to be made from a softshell or padded fabric for additional warmth and stretch.

A hybrid jacket will be less packable than a lightweight shell but it should still stuff into a riding pack. Look for a jacket with vents because, even with a breathable fabric, there’s only so much heat build-up a jacket like this can handle. It’s unlikely to be fully waterproof either.

A waterproof jacket does what it says on the tin. We’re talking proper hardshell waterproof jackets here, designed to keep the rain out for hours on end.

A waterproof jacket designed for mountain biking will tend to have a looser fit than a waterproof road cycling jacket, to accommodate layers and potentially body armour underneath and to allow greater freedom of movement.

There will usually be a couple of pockets too for stowing essentials and snacks, as well as vents for keeping your internal temperature down when working hard on climbs.

A good waterproof jacket won’t come cheap but, if you’re committed to riding year-round, it will be one of the best investments you make.

• Best waterproof mountain bike jackets

Disc brake pads are a consumable component of your bike, and it goes without saying that it’s important to keep them in good condition.

Low power braking, a high-pitched howl when braking in the dry (it’s normal for them to make noise in the wet) or excessive lever travel can all be symptoms of worn out or contaminated disc brake pads.

Thankfully, renewing them is a five-minute job and they’re cheap and light enough that you can – and should – always carry a spare set when out riding because it’s not unheard of to wear through a set on a particularly long and muddy ride.

This guide applies to disc brakes on both road and mountain bikes and, though the guide specifically shows a Shimano brake, the process is almost identical for brakes from SRAM, Tektro and other large manufacturers.

How to change disc brake pads on a bike

Tools you need to replace disc brake pads

• Pad pusher tool or ‘fat’/wide flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers, flat head screwdriver or appropriately sized hex key
• Paper cloth
• Disc brake cleaner
• Replacement pads

Step 1. Inspect for wear

Remove the wheel from the bike and check the brake pads for wear.

It’s important to check the pads regularly – if they wear out right down to the backing plate, metal-on-metal contact will destroy brake rotors very quickly.

Be careful not to actuate the brakes at this stage. Squeezing the brake lever after you’ve removed the disc rotors can force the pistons beyond their limits and compromise the hydraulic system, forcing you to bleed the brake unit.

You should replace your pads when there’s 1.5mm or less of braking material remaining. If the pads are okay, replace the wheel and keep riding. If not, follow these steps.

Step 2: Remove and clean

Start by pushing the old pads into the caliper with a pad pusher tool or a large flat head screwdriver. You must do this at this stage because pushing on new pads directly onto the pistons can cause damage.

Remove the pad retention system – some brakes use a split pin that can be removed with a pair of pliers, whereas others will have a hex- or flat-head screw-in pin. Either way, you need to remove this.

Remove the pads and springs using needle-nose pliers. At this point it’s a good idea to clean the inside of the caliper and rotor with a little degreaser and paper cloth, to remove any brake dust or dirt build-up.

Pay particular attention to the rotor – if it is at all contaminated with oil or grease, this will quickly transfer to your pads, and you’ll have to start the process over again.

Step 3: Replace and adjust

Install the new pads along with the retention pins and clips and return the wheel to the bike. Try to avoid squeezing the brake lever at this point.

Closely examine the caliper position relative to the rotor. The rotor should be running parallel and central to the caliper body. If it isn’t, undo the mounting bolts and adjust so the disc is centred.

Unsure how to centre a caliper? Check out our walkthrough video on how to do this here.

When you’re absolutely sure that the disc is running straight, spin the wheel and squeeze the brake lever. It might take a few pumps before the pads bite. If they don’t grip the rotor after repeated pumps then you will need to bleed the brakes.

When you’re happy that the pads are stopping the wheels properly, you will need to ‘bed them in’.

This can be done by riding in a safe car-free area. Bring the bike up to speed and brake hard. Repeat the process a few times and the bike will be ready to ride.

• How to bed in new disc brake pads in 8 easy steps

The Merida Big.Trail has been totally updated for 2021, moving away from plus tyres to adopt 29er wheels and long, slack and low trail-friendly geometry.

A collaboration between Merida’s UK dealers – a market that has been “one of the driving forces in Europe if not in the world when it comes to taking hardtails on demanding trails” – the bike has been designed specifically as a “fun-packed, versatile, capable and rewarding trail hardtail” that “combines the simplicity and low maintenance of a hardtail with the capability and the fun factor of a long travel bike”.

The range starts at  £800 / €849 / $1,249 for the Big.Trail 200, rising to £1,500 / €1,599 / $2,299 for the Big.Trail 600.

The head tube angle is a raked out 65.5 degrees across all sizes. This is paired with a 75.5-degree seat tube angle across all sizes, which will get your hips over the bottom bracket for comfortable and efficient seated climbing.

A slack head angle and steep seat angle is no good if it’s not paired with a long reach and, on a size large, you get a 455mm reach.

Designed to work best with 120mm to 140mm travel forks, the bike clearly moves away from the more all-round focus of the previous generation in favour of rowdier trail riding.

The bike pairs clearances for tyres up to 2.5in wide and sees capable aggressive tyres matched with wide rims specced across the board.

The three cheapest bikes are built with Merida’s own Comp TR (tubeless-ready) rims, which have a bang-on-trend 29mm internal width, giving modern trail tyres a nice squared-off profile. The top-end bike features Merida Expert TR rims, which drop a bit of weight.

The tyres on the top two bikes are tubeless ready, and we assume it will be the same on the other two.

This means that, to set the bike up tubeless, all that would be required is a pair of valves, tape and sealant.

On the Big.Trail 400, 500 and 600, 150mm travel droppers are fitted on all sizes except small, which gets a 125mm travel dropper.

All bikes are built around a 1x Shimano Deore drivetrain, with the cheapest models getting the latest 10-speed version of the groupset, moving up to the 12-speed version on the top-end bike pictured.

There are two bottle bosses on the down tube and a nifty additional “Trail mount” at the rear end of the top tube. Merida suggests this can be used as an additional water bottle mount or to hold tools.

We have no doubt that, similar to the top tube mounts seen on an increasing number of gravel bikes, an enterprising soul will use this as a neat mount for a bikepacking framebag.

On that subject, the frameset also features hidden mudguard and rack mounts and, of all things, a kickstand mount.

These may seem out of place on a trail bike but, jest all you want – we won’t listen. You honestly can’t see these mounts unless you look closely and when has making a bike more versatile ever been a bad thing?

The bike is also one of the first we’ve seen to use SRAM’s universal derailleur hanger standard.

We’ve covered this in-depth in a standalone article but, in brief, this ‘standard’ means that, if you break your hanger, you should be able to walk into just about any bike shop and pick up a spare without worries about compatibility.

All cables enter the down tube just behind the down tube giving the bike a really clean look that belies its modest price.

We have the pictured top-end Merida Big.Trail 600 in for testing. As mentioned, this features Shimano’s latest Deore M6100 12-speed groupset, alongside a Marzocchi Z1 fork, Shimano BR-MT410 brakes and Maxxis Dissector tyres in an unspecified compound.

It shouldn’t matter but there’s no denying the green and red contrast is very eye-catching, with all of the red logos and highlights perfectly colour-matched to the fork.

At £1,500 / €1,599 / $2,299, the build is competitively-priced for a non-direct sale bike.

However, it’s the cheapest bike – the Merida Big.Trail 200 – that we think will be the big seller.

At just £800 / €849 / $1,249 and featuring a Shimano Deore 1x 10-speed groupset, bang-on-trend modern geometry and tubeless-ready wheels, we suspect this will be very a very popular model.

Bikes in the UK, Europe and the US are available now with bikes shipping in Australia in September.

If you’re looking for a list of the best gravel bikes on sale in 2020 then you’ve come to the right place. All of the bikes in this article have been ridden and rated by BikeRadar’s expert testers.

Gravel and all-road are terms used for this rapidly growing segment of the drop bar bike market. These bikes have generous tyre clearance and geometry that is more stable and forgiving than traditional road bikes.

Gravel bikes were born out of the American Midwest, where racing on gravel roads took hold a decade ago and has steadily gained popularity.

In the early days, riders tackled these endurance events on cyclocross bikes with the largest tyres that would fit between the stays. Today, there are numerous purpose-built machines that gravel-curious riders can choose from.

On the subject of gravel riding

• What is gravel riding?
• Cheap gravel bikes: adventure bike bargains
• The best gravel bike tyres
• The best shoes for gravel riding

Canyon Grail Al 7.0

• Head to Canyon’s website to buy factory direct

• Named as our best all-round bike in our 2019 Bike of the Year awards
• Amazing performance for the money
• 700c x 40mm tyre clearance

Winner of the best all-round bike in our 2019 Bike of the Year awards, the alloy version of the Grail ditches the ‘hover bar‘ for a standard cockpit, and is combined with an 80mm stem for a lively ride.

The alloy frame also loses the bump in the top tube, features heavily hydroformed tubing and oversized 1 1/4in steering and a full carbon fork.

With a 50/34t crankset mated with an 11-34t cassette, the Grail gives you a 1:1 climbing gear. The Schwalbe G-Ones performed well, but durability is likely to come into play.

We were most surprised by the Grail AL’s performance, especially considering the price.

• Read our Canyon Grail AL 7.0 review
• Buy the Grail AL 7.0 direct from Canyon

Canyon Grail CF SL 7.0

• Head to Canyon’s website to buy factory direct

• A real head turner
• Superb kit for the cash
• Unique cockpit

Despite being the most affordable carbon fibre Canyon Grail, this model still arrives with a great spec. It’s a composed off-roader that manages to feel fast and relatively uncompromised on the road too.

The distinctive double deck ‘Hover bar’ is the bike’s most defining feature, though it’s one that brings its own fit and compatibility complications.

Shimano’s GRX groupset brings a huge range of gearing, a secure, clutch-equipped rear derailleur and hydraulic disc braking.

If the fit works for you and the handlebar is to your preference then this is a great choice for those riding on mixed terrain.

If you can’t live with the compromises of this bike’s divisive cockpit then we’d encourage you to try out the cheaper aluminium version of the Grail (shown above in this list) which foregoes the biplane setup. 

This GRX equipped version is the cheapest way to get your hands on a carbon Grail, but if you’ve got a bit more money to spend we also got on very well with the SRAM Force eTap build as well.

• Read our full review of the Canyon Grail CF SL 7.0
• Read our Canyon Grail CF8.0 SL eTap review
• Buy the Canyon Grail CF SL 7.0

Cannondale Topstone Carbon Ultegra RX

• Fast and racy machine with great wheels
• Effective rear suspension
• 700 x 40mm tyre clearance

The Topstone is a racy gravel bike with a firm, fast handling front end and clever rear suspension unit that provides up to 30mm of travel.

You also get a nice smart set of Cannondale’s own Hollowgram carbon wheels, which are tubeless ready and weigh around 1.5kg, which helps keep the overall weight of the bike down to 9kg in a size large.

With stack and reach figures similar to Cannondale’s Synapse endurance road bike too, the Topstone makes a compelling option as a do-it-all bike (if you’re looking to break the n+1 cycle). A simple swap of tyres is all it takes to make this a bike that shines both off-road and on.

A new full-suspension Cannondale Topstone Lefty has been announced for 2021 and we’ll be reviewing it as soon as possible.

• Read our Cannondale Topstone Carbon Ultegra RX review

Enigma Escape

If versatility and practicality are what you’re after and you’ve got a taste for titanium then this is a fine option. 

We love the timeless look of this bike and its ride delivers a pleasantly damped feel that’s devoid of fatiguing buzz. 

The Escape’s versatility means it can competently serve as everything from a posh commuter to a long-distance adventure bike.

Some will find the fact it commands a significant premium over comparable steel bikes hard to swallow, and it’s heavier than similarly priced carbon options too.

• Read our full review of the Enigma Escape

Genesis Datum 20

• Super comfortable but springy ride
• Confidence-inspiring long and low position
• 700 x 45mm tyre clearance

While the Datum isn’t a featherweight at 9.29kg, the bike more than made up for the mediocre performance on the scale with its ride quality. Our tester loved the spring up to speed when you put a bit of pressure on the pedals and the dynamic ride feel.

It’s slightly longer and lower than most gravel bikes, but the stretched front end, flared bars and 72-degree head angle make for a safe and stable feel so you can confidently push when things get greasy or gravelly. At the back, a 27.2mm seatpost and leaf-spring stays work together to eat road vibrations.

In a throwback to the origins of the gravel and all-road bike, the Datum 20 is not without its quirks with a 15mm front thru-bolt in the fork and a quick release skewer at the back.

• Read our Genesis Datum 20 review

GT Grade Carbon Pro

• Trail adjusting flip chip on fork improves handling between wheel sizes
• Nimble, yet super comfortable ride
• 700c x 42mm tyre clearance

GT’s Grade was one of the first adventure / all-road / gravel bikes, and at the time it was well ahead of the curve in terms of versatility, but after four years, it had become a bit of a dinosaur. Newly revamped, the Grade has matured into a fully-fledged gravel grinder.

The bike still has GT’s signature ‘triple triangle’ at the back, but the seat tube is now entirely free-floating and the seatstays have lost some girth allowing for heaps of compliance.

GT has also added a rear thru-axle and employed a flip chip in the fork to allow the trail figure to be adjusted by 15mm for changeable handling characteristics.

Tyre clearance has also been upped to 700c x 42 mm, and the brand has added mounts galore with the carbon versions capable of carrying five bottles and the alloy version eight.

The position on the bike has been lowered and lengthened a touch, and the handling is confident even when the road or trail gets treacherous — the bike has become more cable overall than its predecessor.

Our Gravel Bike of the Year winner for 2020, the GT Grade Carbon Pro ticks a lot of boxes. It combines excellent compliance with fast handling and great kit that provokes a feeling of childlike exuberance.

Kit wise, there’s very little we’d change, but it’s definitely worth converting the tyres to tubeless if you can.

• Read our GT Grade Carbon Pro review

Liv Devote Advanced Pro

• Clearance for 45mm (700c) and 50mm (650b) tyres
• Women’s-specific geometry
• Dropper seatpost compatibility

Liv’s first gravel bike is a true do-it-all bike for women seeking on- and 0ff-road adventures.

As with the rest of the Liv range, the frame’s geometry/sizing and carbon layup has been chosen specifically for female riders. Giant’s shock-absorbing seatpost is very effective at reducing trail buzz, although the 30.9mm hole it sits in will willingly accept a dropper post should you want to maximise the bike’s handling on descents.

It’s a bike that is supremely comfortable over long distances and has mounts for mudguards, luggage, bottles and accessories, so it’s ready for as much adventure as you can take on.

We thoroughly enjoyed the huge gear range, slick shifts and easy set up of SRAM’s eTap AXS groupset, and its AXS brakes were not short of power or feel.

This flagship Devote model is big bucks but there are two cheaper carbon bikes and an aluminium frame starting from just £1,400 / $1,150 / €1,100 / AU$1,699.

• Read our Liv Devote Advanced Pro review

Marin Gestalt X11

• Mountain bike-inspired geometry is astonishingly capable
• Dropper post makes it a joy to ride in rowdy terrain
• 700c x 42mm tyre clearance

Marin has a long history in mountain biking and has adapted some of the lessons learned with the current crop of ever longer and slacker mountain bikes into the Gestalt X11 gravel bike.

With a slack front end and a steep seat angle, the bike puts you in an aggressive pedalling position, yet maintains predictable, surprise free handling on and off the road. The combination of an angled top tube and hydraulic dropper post allows Gestalt to get into some pretty unruly terrain.

Remembering that this is still a drop bar road bike, it’s got a full carbon fork, a range of rack mounts and will take up to a 42mm x 700c tyre or a 47mm tyre when using 650b wheels. The only real complaint we can muster is about the saddle.

• Read our Marin Gestalt X11 review

Mason Bokeh Ti GRX Di2

• Buy now from Mason

• Sublime frame with lovely ride quality and great kit
• The chunky tyres make it a little pedestrian on the road and it’s pretty expensive
• 700c x 45mm tyre clearance

We’ve long been big fans of Mason’s aluminium gravel bike, the Bokeh, so we were pleased to see much of what we loved about that bike has translated across to the titanium version.

There are smart details galore, from the numerous mounts for bottles, racks and mudguards, to the MultiPort cabling system that ensures compatibility with all kinds of drivetrain. As you’d expect, the ride quality is also excellent. The frameset, custom Mason/Hunt wheels and chunky tyres make for a wonderfully composed ride off-road.

The only issue is that it comes at a relatively high price, but if you’re willing to part with this much cash, we think you’re unlikely to be disappointed.

• Read our full review of the Mason Bokeh Ti GRX Di2
• Buy the Mason Bokeh Ti GRX Di2

Orbea Terra M20-D1x GRX

• Lively, well priced bike with a bold paint job
• 1x gearing is very off-road focused
• 700c x 40mm tyre clearance

Highly capable both on- and off-road, Orbea’s Terra M20-D1x is an excellent all-round bike for all kinds of adventures.

It absorbs rough terrain with ease, but doesn’t feel like a wet noodle on the road. It also has integrated mounts for racks and mudguards, so a simple swap of tyres or wheels could easily turn this into a ‘one-bike-for-all’ option.

If we’re really nitpicking, the only thing to be aware of is that the 1x gearing is quite off-road focused, so you could find yourself slightly undergeared for group riding on the road.

Orbea also offers a host of customisation options, meaning you can upgrade the spec to suit, if your budget allows. Plus, if the rowdy stock paint job isn’t for you, customising that is also an option.

• Read our full review of the Mason Bokeh Ti GRX Di2

Reilly Gradient

• Well priced for titanium
• Clever build kit
• Comfortable and quick

The titanium Reilly Gradient frame is not only a thing of beauty, the ride it delivers also manages to hit the sweet spot between comfort and speed.

The well-considered build puts Hunt’s 1,629g 4Season tubeless-ready alloy gravel wheelset at either axle and is driven and stopped by Shimano’s excellent gravel-specific GRX groupset.

It all adds up to a ride that feels road-bike precise on tarmac, yet controllable off it. It’s reasonably priced too, particularly for a titanium bike that’s built in the UK.

• Read our full review of the Reilly Gradient

Ribble CGR Ti 650b

• Great value for money build
• Classic ti’ looks are hard to beat
• 700 x 47mm tyre clearance

Ribble’s CGR Ti presents exceptional value for money and buckets of versatility but, let’s get real here — it’s the classic brushed titanium finish that really got us excited.

The frame isn’t just a pretty face, though — at 1,700g it’s not too heavy for a non-carbon frame and, with generous clearances alongside mudguard mounts, it’s super versatile to boot.

The CGR Ti has recently been updated with dropped seat stays, a stouter head tube and more road friendly gearing, but we’ve not had a chance to test whether any of those changes makes a significant difference to the ride quality.

• Read our Ribble CGR Ti 650b review

Rondo Ruut AL Disc

• Clever switchable geometry
• Great build kit
• Very comfortable

As a relative of our 2019 Bike of the Year, we had a sneaky suspicion that the Rondo Ruut AL Disc was going to be good and we weren’t wrong.

The sculpted aluminium frame is dressed in a great selection of kit including SRAM’s excellent 1x gearing and hydraulic disc brakes.

The wheels don’t only look great but they’re tubeless-ready and play nicely with the 43mm wide Panaracer Gravel King tyres.

Then comes this bike’s party piece: a patented oval insert at the fork lets you swap between two different geometries, subtly altering stack, reach, length, fork offset, head and seat angles. That means you can alter the bike to offer a racier or more relaxed feel depending on which terrain you’re tackling.

It’s good on road and great off road but also includes all the fittings you could require for bikepacking.

• Read our Rondo Ruut AL Disc review

Trek Checkpoint SL6

• IsoSpeed decoupler improves comfort massively
• The bike strikes a good balance between high-speed gravel cruisability and low-speed stability
• 700c x 40mm tyre clearance

Sitting at the top of Trek’s range of gravel bikes, the Checkpoint SL6 carries the brand’s IsoSpeed decoupler on the seat tube to make rough and tumble gravel roads feel almost velvety smooth, with the fork being no slouch in this department either.

At the back, the Checkpoint also gets a dropped driveside chainstay to leave extra room for tyres and mud and is said to accept up to 40mm rubber.

The Checkpoint SL 6 comes with a 50/34t crankset and 11-34t cassette, giving a 1:1 climbing gear for when the gravel gets really steep.

We found the Checkpoint leaned towards faster rolling terrain and wasn’t as confident in techy mud and rocks. Even still, the bike finds a good balance between high-speed gravel cruising and low-speed rock crawling.

• Read our Trek Checkpoint SL6 review

Vielo V+1

• Super light and comfortable frameset
• Dropper improves control in rough terrain
• 700 x 45mm tyre clearance

Vielo’s V+1 is built around one of the lightest gravel frames on the market, with the (claimed) sub-900g frame and sub-400g fork giving a really lively, exciting and fast ride.

Uniquely, the bike is built around a RockShox Reverb dropper post, which massively improves confidence in rough terrain.

• Read our Vielo V+1 review
• Buy the V+1 direct from Vielo

BiVi Bunker Malvern

• Charming retro appeal
• Mountain bike derived drivetrain
• Something a little different

This one’s a bit of a wildcard, you can either see it as an on-trend flat bar gravel adventure bike or a retro mountain bike with a few modern touches.

Either way, the Bunker is an appealing, versatile choice and something a little different to the rest of the bikes in this list.

We really enjoyed the way this bike combines a retro ride experience with some modern niceties. The 1×11 SRAM GX drivetrain is a good example of this, offering dependable and smooth shifts that are endlessly more appealing than the loose triple setup a 90’s MTB would wear.

• Read the full review of the BiVi Bunker Malvern

Cannondale Topstone Apex

• Super clean and well-equipped alloy frame
• Tall and relaxed ride position is great for all-day riding
• 700c x 42mm tyre clearance

While Cannondale was one of the first mainstream brands to go #fullgravel with the Slate, for some, putting a Lefty suspension fork on a drop bar bike was a tad too radical.

The brand’s latest entry to the gravel market should satisfy those who are looking for something a bit more traditional and are on a budget.

The alloy frame is well presented with clean finishing and plenty of bottle, rack and fender mounts throughout. The geometry offers a tall, relaxed position, and with a 50mm dropper you can get your butt all the way back to the tyre on steep descents.

Unfortunately, when things go back up, the Topstone isn’t exactly a mountain goat thanks a bit of junk in the trunk, tipping our scales at 10.26kg.

The bike handles pretty similarly to Cannondale’s SuperX cyclocross bike, but with a longer wheelbase and lower bottom bracket, it’s a confident descender.

• Read our Cannondale Topstone Apex review

Cipollini MCM Allroad

• Fast and stiff frameset
• Stable handling
• 700 x 40mm tyre clearance

Cipollini’s MCM Allroad gravel bike is the brand’s first off-road focussed model and available in a number of builds, with this SRAM Force-1 equipped bike coming in at a fairly heady £5,800. The frameset will set you back £3,200.

Out on the (gravel) road, the bike is stiff, fast and well mannered, but the slightly uneven finish and middling tyre clearance is slightly disappointing for the money.

• Read our Cipollini MCM Allroad review
• Buy the MCM Allroad from your latest Cipollini dealer

Fuji Jari 1.3

• Usefully low gearing
• Ideal for bikepacking
• A fun if not particularly fast ride

The Jari 1.3 isn’t particularly light, neither is it that quick. But it’s a top choice if you’re looking for a comfortable, practical and versatile gravel bike that’ll cope with just about every surface you throw at it.

The aluminium frame and carbon fork include plenty of fittings for touring or bikepacking accessories as well as the usual mudguard mounts.

The SRAM 1x drivetrain starts out with a really low crawler gear that will become your very best friend when climbing or riding off road.

We were also big fans of the 38mm tubeless-compatible Panaracer Gravel King tyres that come with this bike. We’d have preferred to have seen hydraulic rather than mechanical disc brakes, but at this price, you simply can’t have it all.

Read the full review of the Fuji Jari 1.3

Giant Revolt Advanced 0

• Amazing spec for the cash
• Highly versatile frameset
• 700 x 45mm tyre clearance

With a racy geometry, similar to Giant’s Defy endurance road bike, the Revolt Advanced is a quick handling machine that’s also smooth to ride over rough terrain.

That smoothness is down to the slim back-end, but also some smart component choices. The D-Fuse seatpost and handlebars both allow for flex in the directions you want it, without impacting stiffness in those that you don’t.

Tyre clearance is excellent, with space for 700 x 45mm or up to 50mm tyres on 650b wheels. Kudos to Giant for setting the wheels up tubeless out of the box, and the 32x34t bottom gear should be low enough for practically everything even if the bike’s loaded up.

The versatility of this bike is really something too, it’s easily adaptable for commuting, road training, gravel racing or adventuring with luggage attached.

• Read our Giant Revolt Advanced 0 review

Kinesis Tripster AT

• Very capable for a budget-focussed frame
• Competitive build for the money
• 700 x 45mm tyre clearance

Using design ideas from the late Mike Hall, the Tripster AT began its life as the ATR titanium all-rounder and has now evolved into a more budget-friendly aluminium version.

The bike will take 650b x 52mm or 700 x 45mm rubber, and has room for three bottles with room for a frame bag.

With an on-trend gravel geometry and tipping our scales at 9.6kg it’s not the lightest bike, but on paper it’s a very competitive gravel ride.

In practice, the handling is rock solid but the frame has a firm ride quality, even with the 40mm Schwalbe G-One tyres at relatively low pressure.

The drivetrain is geared towards adventuring with a 40t chainring at the front and an 11-42t at the back, and the simplicity of the 1x drivetrain did not go unnoticed. However, the tight bend in the flared drop bars lacks space for riders with big mitts.

• Read our Kinesis Tripster AT review

Lauf Anywhere

• Same great race-ready frame as the True Grit
• Regular fork opens up options for mounting luggage
• 700c x 45mm tyre clearance

When you think of Lauf, the first thing that comes to mind is its crazy looking leaf spring fork, which allows for 30mm of front travel. However, the brand’s Anywhere gravel grinder doesn’t get one and instead it comes with what Lauf calls a JAF or ‘Just a Fork.’

The frame features its Long-4-Speed geometry, which entails a short head-tube, lengthy top-tube and short chainstays paired with a short stem and a slack (for a road bike) head angle. The idea is that it’s stable at speed but lets you get tucked up in an aero position when the need arises.

Lauf has also opted for a threaded bottom bracket shell, full-length internal cable guides and mounts galore, but the bike has no provisions for mudguards/fenders.

As the name implies, the Anywhere rides well on both tarmac and F-Roads as they’re known in Iceland (gravel roads) as well as smooth singletrack, but is somewhat limited by the 40mm slick tyres that come stock.

• Read our Lauf Anywhere review
• Buy the Anywhere direct from Lauf

Pinnacle Arkose Dirt D3

• Very practical and good value for money build
• Full complement of rack and mudguard mounts
• 700 x 45mm tyre clearance

Evans Cycles argues that the Arkose was a gravel bike before the term ground its way in to our collective consciousness. As it’s been around for several years, Evans has a point.

This latest iteration of the model gains a raft of tweaks that should widen its appeal to the maturing UK all-road bike market and, with such a large retailer behind it, it looks to be great value too.

• Read our Pinnacle Arkose Dirt D3 review

Ribble CGR 725 Steel

• Immensely versatile
• A touch on the heavy side
• Classy steel frame

The CGR 725 Steel gets its name from the slender Reynolds 725 steel tubes it’s constructed with. The frame offers not only a classy look but a cossetting ride that is more about comfort than smashing personal bests.

You can fit 700c, 29er or 650b wheels, making this is a chassis you can really tailor to your preferences. Rear rack mounts, clearance for up to 47mm tyres and bosses at the top tube add further versatility.

The CGR could happily clock commuting, fitness, adventure or even training rides.

At a smidge over 11kg, it’s a little weighty though, and the TRP mechanical discs are good rather than great.

• Read our Ribble CGR 725 Steel review

Rose Backroad Ultegra

• Typically impressive value for money from Rose
• Opportunity to refine specs
• 700 x 42mm tyre clearance

The Backroad is Rose’s take on a go-anywhere road bike that takes in the gravel genre too. In typical online retail style, value for money is high, and the price is usually not a round number.

The ride is a little firmer and the bottom bracket a bit higher than most but, overall, it’s a really well-rounded package.

• Read our Rose Backroad Ultegra review
• Buy the Backroad Ultegra direct from Rose

Specialized Diverge X1

• Comfortable, confident and fun to ride
• Effective handlebar suspension
• 700 x 42mm tyre clearance

The cheapest carbon model in Specialized’s 2020 Diverge range (which has just been updated for 2021), the X1 is designed to ‘shred’ singletrack, gravel and normal roads, and it doesn’t disappoint.

The Future Shock suspension system, which sits between the head tube and the handlebars, impresses and, as we’ve noted before, genuinely makes a difference to the comfort and handling.

The 1x SRAM Apex drivetrain features a 40t chainring paired with an 11-42t cassette out back, giving it plenty of top speed for road use but on super-steep off-road climbs our tester did find it a struggle to keep cadence high. The simplicity of a 1x setup is a real winner on rough, undulating tracks though.

To truly sing off-road it does need a change of tyres because the stock ones have a slick central tread that isn’t well suited for the muddy conditions we often get here in the UK.

• Read our long-term review of the Specialized Diverge X1

Vitus Substance CRX

• Lightweight carbon wheelset
• True mountain bike character
• Exceptional value

The Substance CRX may be Vitus’s first foray into the world of gravel bikes but you’d never know it. Make no mistake, this is a bike that has been specced to really excel at gravel riding itself with geometry, gearing and component choices that work best in the rough.

Vitus really makes this bike’s retail price stretch a long way. The carbon fibre frame is made from Toray T-700 carbon which has previously been exclusive to the likes of premium brands such as Pinarello.

There’s a SRAM Rival groupset, lightweight 650b carbon fibre wheels from Prime with a generous 24.5mm internal width and WTB’s Venture 650b x 47c TCS tubeless tyres.

Our sub-9kg XL test bike is impressive for a gravel bike at this price, particularly when you consider the aforementioned 47mm tyres. It’s a real hoot off road with true mountain-bike character while mudguard bosses, fork-mounted bags and a third bottle boss at the down tube make it a viable option for adventuring or even tough commutes.

• Read our full review of the Vitus Substance CRX

What is a gravel bike?

Four key features can usually be used to distinguish a gravel bike from a traditional road bike.

Wider tyres

First and foremost, gravel bikes have wider tyres. Since these bicycles are designed to traverse miles of unpaved roads, their tyres are substantially larger. Likewise, mud clearance is also a concern in these conditions.

Tyre widths range anywhere from 30mm to 48mm. In addition to 700c wheels, it is also common to see smaller diameter 650b wheels used with higher volume tyres.

Most gravel tyres feature a fast-rolling centre tread with knurling or side knobs to improve cornering ability on mixed surfaces. Tubeless tyres are also commonly found on gravel bikes, because the latex sealant provides a degree of insurance against punctures.

In addition to wider tyres, gravel bikes have geometry that favours stability and comfort.

Geometry

The wheelbase of a gravel bike is longer than most road bikes thanks to longer chainstays and slacker head-tube angles.

Head tubes are generally taller as well, placing the rider in a more relaxed, upright position. Bottom brackets are often lower, which gives the rider the sensation of riding in, rather than on the bicycle.

The end result of these geometry differences is a more comfortable, confidence-inspiring and forgiving ride than one would find in a typical road bike.

Gearing

Gearing is another area where these bikes diverge from the pack. Given the terrain, many gravel bikes feature compact or smaller gearing and wide-range cassettes.

Cranksets with 50/34 or 48/32t are common. Likewise, many gravel bikes come with 1x gearing and wide-range cassettes.

Suspension

In addition to wide tyres, relaxed geometry and low gearing, many gravel bikes have active or passive suspension systems built into them.

Much like bikes in the endurance road category, these features could take the form of slender chainstays, a bowed top tube, or a skinny seatpost, all of which are designed to flex in order to absorb road chatter.

Some gravel bikes take things one step further by using short-travel suspension forks such as the Lefty Oliver or aesthetically odd but very effective Lauf Grit fork.

How much do I have to spend on a gravel bike?

Well, that depends on what you define as a gravel bike. A used cyclocross bike, for example, could work perfectly well as a gravel bike and cost you a fraction of the cost of even the most basic ‘true’ gravel machine.

If you’re looking at a purpose-built gravel / all-road bike, expect to pay around £800 / $1,200 for an alloy frame with entry-level components.

A mid-range build from a major brand will likely cost in excess of £2,000 / $2,800 but should feature a carbon frame and hydraulic disc brakes.

As is normally the case in the cycling world, it’s possible to spend a small (or not so small) fortune on a custom-built bike should you wish.

We’ve spotted French national champion Warren Barguil riding what looks to be Canyon’s new Aeroad Disc aero road bike on stage one of the 2020 Critérium du Dauphiné.

Though the bike’s existence is perhaps one of the cycling industry’s worst-kept secrets, the German brand nevertheless remains tightlipped about it.

It’s a bike that many of us here at BikeRadar were hoping to see in 2020, but it has so far only made a handful of fleeting appearances in the wild; once in an advert for Zwift (featuring another of Canyon’s sponsored stars, Matheiu Van der Poel) and at a select few professional races.

ANNE-CHRISTINE POUJOULAT/AFP via Getty Images

The Zwift advert, released in January 2020, showed XC, cyclocross and road superstar Van der Poel riding a number of different Canyon bikes on a Wahoo Kickr smart trainer, in a room with Zwift projected onto the walls.

His road bike appeared to be an updated version of the Aeroad, Canyon’s highly regarded but slightly long-in-the-tooth aero bike.

Other than a different paint job (Barguil rides for Arkéa-Samsic, whereas Van der Poel riders for Alpecin-Fenix – both teams are sponsored by Canyon), the most recent photograph of Barguil at the Dauphiné doesn’t appear to show any external differences to the bike Van der Poel used in the Zwift advert.

Though we can’t be certain, we might speculate this means the bike could finally be ‘oven-ready’ and therefore due to be released sooner rather than later.

A clearer picture of what’s coming

The latest images, taken during the race by photographer Anne-Christine Poujoulat, do provide a good look at many of the finer details though.

From the side profile, we think it looks quite a lot like the recently #cancelled Specialized Venge, though perhaps Canyon would say the Venge looked a lot like the current Aeroad Disc.

While the overall profile of the frame appears similar to that of the current model, originally released back in 2014 and updated with disc brakes in late 2016, there are a few notable differences when the two bikes are compared side by side.

For a start, the cable routing around the handlebars and head tube has been significantly tidied up, with all cables (including hoses for hydraulic disc brakes) now routed fully internally through the handlebar and into the frame.

The handlebar also looks to have received an update, with the traditional-bend drop shape found on the previous model being replaced by a more modern, semi-compact shape.

Additionally, the seatstays appear deeper and the new fork also tapers less at the dropouts than the previous version. Both are perhaps taking advantage of the updated UCI rules, which now permit tube shapes that are slightly longer and thinner (and therefore more aerodynamic) than when the original version of the Aeroad was released.

The seatstays also appear to be sculpted to help hide the rear disc rotor from the wind.

The down tube appears to be wider (and possibly deeper), to match the head tube, likely to increase stiffness and improve aerodynamic performance (potentially with water bottles in place – similar to how Pinarello widened the down tube when redesigning its F8 to make the F10).

Tyre clearance at the fork looks to have also increased, which would be a welcome update.

Being able to take a 28mm tyre was considered very progressive for an aero road bike when the current Aeroad released, but times have moved on and we’re hoping this new version might be able to take even larger road tyres.

The proprietary aero seatpost also appears to have been significantly beefed up, presumably in search of greater aerodynamic efficiency, but we’ll be interested to find out how comfort compares to the current model when we can eventually get one in to test.

It’s difficult to speculate on the weight of the frame, particularly as some of the tubes appear to have got bigger. However, if a pure climber like Barguil was happy to use it for a stage that included plenty of climbing, with 60mm deep Shimano Dura-Ace wheels, it surely can’t be too weighty.

Clearly a favoured test pilot, Braguil has also been riding a ‘new Evo’ version of Canyon’s Ultimate frameset recently, though we now believe that to be the 641g CFR version announced earlier this week.

It’s also notable that we’ve still not seen hide nor hair of a rim brake version of the new Aeroad. The latest update to the UCI’s list of approved frames and forks also still appears to only list a disc version of this new model (the Aeroad CFR Disc R065).

It might upset a few die-hard rim brake fanatics out there, but that appears to be the clear direction the performance road bike market is now heading.

Every bike brand worth its salt has a gravel bike in its range but there’s a vast array of different spec choices and setup options out there, from gearing and wheel sizes, to tyre width and accessories.

Some bikes are geared towards fast rides on and off-road, while others are set up to carry luggage on long-haul adventures, well off the beaten track. Which is right for you? What are the spec options to look out for? And what components can you tweak to adapt your gravel bike to the type of riding you plan?

Whether you’re on the look out for a new gravel bike, or you’re looking to upgrade your current ride, we’ve demystified the intricacies of gravel bike setup to help you make the right decision.

Gravel bike gearing

A few years ago, many gravel bikes came fitted with a 50/34t compact chainset commonly seen on road bikes, along with a fairly narrow range cassette.

That’s still a good option if most of your riding is a mix of tarmac and gentle off-road trails, and you’re not expecting to carry a lot of kit.

But hit a more technical off-road climb and you’ll likely end up walking once your rear wheel loses grip or you just don’t have the power to keep the pedals turning.

How low can you go?

With that in mind, the trend nowadays is towards much lower gearing for gravel bikes. In fact, as gravel bikes have grown in popularity, we’ve seen gravel-specific groupsets, such as Shimano GRX, and gravel-friendly gearing options released to accommodate the needs of riders.

With GRX, Shimano has introduced anti-slip hoods and a new lever coating to improve grip, while the leverage ratio has been adapted to improve braking on loose surfaces, moving the pivot point on the lever in comparison to Shimano’s existing road levers.

SRAM, meanwhile, has now released its Force eTap AXS Wide groupset, adding gravel-appropriate gearing to what is ostensibly a road groupset.

Many new gravel bikes will have gears that give you the lowest ratios of 1:1 or lower. That should let you climb steep, loose off-road ascents when unladen and also gives you enough range to load up your gravel bike for bikepacking excursions and multi-day trips.

The downside is that you may run out of top-end gears if you’re riding fast or descending on tarmac

It’s worth considering the type of riding that you’re expecting to do and where, when choosing a gravel bike or a new groupset.

Chainring sizes

The shift to lower gear ratios is driven by changes at both ends of the drivetrain.

At the front, there’s a trend to smaller chainrings, with super-compact chainsets increasingly specced (that’s where the chainring sizes are smaller than a standard 50/34t compact).

These are available in an array of smaller size combos: Shimano’s gravel-specific GRX groupsets give you a choice of 48/31t or 46/30t double chainsets and a growing number of aftermarket suppliers, including the likes of FSA, Rotor and Praxxis, sell gravel chainsets with similar-sized rings.

As well as lower ratios, a smaller chainring means that bike designers can more easily add clearance for wider tyres, supporting another trend in gravel bike design.

Cassette options

Meanwhile, on the back of the bike, the latest rear derailleurs can handle much larger cassettes, once again ensuring a wider range of gears for off-road riding and bikepacking

Whereas older rear mechs designed for road bikes might just about squeeze in a 30-tooth largest sprocket, many modern road rear mechs can handle 34, giving you a couple of easier gears for climbing.

Swap to a gravel-specific derailleur and you can head up to 42 teeth or so, although these wide range derailleurs are designed to work with single-ring groupsets, rather than double chainsets.

In terms of top-end speed, Shimano’s cassettes start at 11 teeth, but SRAM has options with 10 teeth on the smallest sprocket. Ten-tooth cassettes only fit SRAM’s XD-R freehub body though, rather than the standard Shimano/SRAM design.

To keep the chain taut over such wide ranges and aid chain retention, gravel-specific rear derailleurs will typically incorporate a clutch.

That’s always on in SRAM’s designs but there’s a lever on Shimano’s GRX and Ultegra RX derailleurs to let you release it when you’re riding on smoother surfaces. There’s a marginal decrease in drivetrain friction if the clutch is disengaged and it makes removing the rear wheel easier too.

1x or 2x?

The other trend in gravel bike groupsets has been the move to a single chainring setup, paired with a very wide range cassette, as opposed to a regular double chainset.

With a 1x groupset, you save a little weight by dispensing of the front derailleur, plus there’s less to go wrong and less chance of mud build-up. They are also designed to keep the chain in place and running smoothly when you’re riding over bumpy ground.

On the minus side, there are fewer gear options covering roughly the same gear range, so jumps between gears are larger. Gravel riders who spend a fair amount of time on the road, or covering ground quickly, might find the extra top-end range of a double chainset useful, too.

That said, once you take account of overlaps in ratios between the large and small chainrings in a two-ring setup, and unusable combinations at the high and low ends of the cassette, the actual number of unique gears isn’t that different.

A single ring setup means that you can access all gears sequentially too, rather than needing to swap chainrings to access your higher or lower ranges.

Because the chain doesn’t have to jump between rings, single ring chainsets have deeper teeth on the chainring to help keep the chain in place. Single chainrings usually have alternating wide and narrow teeth to match the different widths of the chain links, again to improve chain retention over uneven surfaces.

So deciding on a single ring and a double ring setup depends on the riding you’re planning. If you’re mainly wanting to ride fast on road and smoother terrain, a double ring chainset could give you a few more high-end ratios and smaller jumps between gears, while if you’re looking to tackle harder terrain, you may appreciate the chain retention benefits and simpler shifting of a single ring.

Mullet builds

Want even lower gears? So-called ‘mullet’ builds mix a road chainset and shifters with a mountain bike rear derailleur and cassette for an ultra-low gear range.

Using Shimano’s electronic Di2 components, you can pair GRX shifters with an XTR or Deore XT Di2 MTB rear mech. Both MTB derailleurs can handle a 42-tooth cassette in double chainring configuration or 46 teeth with a single chainring.

It’s an option also promoted by SRAM with its new AXS 12-speed wireless electronic components. Here, the AXS Eagle MTB rear mech is designed to work with an Eagle 10-50t cassette, giving really low ratios when paired, say, with a 42-tooth chainring.

If you’re really into mix-and-match drivetrains, there’s a host of brands like Wolf Tooth Components that make parts to let you do pretty much whatever you like.

Wheel size

Over the last few years, gravel bikes have developed their own designs for wheels too.

The usual 700c wheel size for road bikes continues to be popular, but there is an increasing range of gravel-specific wheelsets, which typically have wider rims than a road-going wheel to provide better support for wider gravel tyres. Road rims are following fast in their wake and getting wider too.

Gravel bikes are invariably designed with disc brakes and rims are almost always tubeless-ready. The puncture protection afforded by the sealant in a tubeless tyre is a godsend when riding over broken surfaces and thorny debris.

Hookless rims are increasingly seen, where there is no lip to the rim edge. Hookless rims have been common in mountain biking for some time but are gaining prominence on the road and in the gravel scene too.

Alongside 700c wheels, many gravel bikes come with the option to fit 650b wheelsets. The smaller size – equivalent to 27.5-inch mountain bike wheels – lets you fit even wider tyres in your frame, with greater volume.

That adds comfort to the ride, as well as increasing grip on off-road terrain and letting you run even lower tyre pressures. With a large tyre, the rolling circumference of a 650b wheel is similar to a 700c with a narrow tyre, so gearing and handling should end up similar.

Rather like the single/double chainset choice above, which wheel size works for you depends on your objectives and what you want from your gravel bike.

For a faster ride on road and light gravel, you’ll probably want to stick to 700c wheels with narrower tyres of 40mm or less, while if you’re planning to head for more difficult terrain, you’ll appreciate the grip and cushioning offered by wider tyres on 650b, although that might be at the expense of speed on tarmac.

If your gravel bike has the clearance, a set of each wheel size would give you the best of both worlds, letting you swap between them depending on the ride.

Tyre choice

Fitting the best gravel tyres for the riding you’re doing is another key decision for your gravel bike setup.

In fact, changing the tyres on a gravel bike can unleash the true potential of your machine, either significantly improving its ability off-road or adding a turn of road speed.

With gravel bikes used across such a wide range of terrain, it’s one area where you can easily change how your bike performs. We’d recommend tubeless tyres for gravel riding.

Gravel tyre width

Once you’ve settled on 700c or 650b wheels, tyre choice will largely be determined by tread pattern and width. If off-road grip and stability are important, look for wide tyres with a more aggressive tread pattern; if you’re more likely to be riding on the road or hardpack gravel, a narrower, slicker tyre will likely be more suitable.

700c gravel tyres are typically around 40mm wide, although you can get tyres that are wider or quite a bit narrower too. Typical widths are 35mm, 40mm, 42mm or 45mm. Have a look at this article, where we rode three different width gravel tyres from Maxxis, for an idea of the effect of tyre width on your ride.

How wide you go will largely depend on the terrain you ride and your frame’s clearance. If you live somewhere with a wet climate, it’s a good idea to leave some room for mud too.

Gravel tyre tread pattern

How muddy it is will also influence your tyre choice. In dry conditions and on finer gravel surfaces, you can usually get away with a file tread like the Panaracer GravelKing SK or a semi-slick design, with a smooth centre, like the WTB Byway.

The low-profile tread makes for fast rolling on tarmac, while there’s still enough grip from the side lugs to keep you upright and moving on looser surfaces.

If it’s wet or muddy, you’ll need something with more grip from a knobbly tread pattern. Schwalbe’s G-One range goes from the small knobs of the G-One Speed through to the G-One Ultrabite, while Continental offers the Terra Speed and Terra Trail for varying conditions.

There’s a whole range of gravel tyres from the likes of Panaracer and WTB designed for different terrain.

In wet or muddy conditions, large widely-spaced knobs can improve grip. The wide spacing will also help to shed mud. A tighter packed tread won’t work as well in wet conditions but will usually roll faster on tarmac or more hard-packed gravel surfaces.

For very muddy conditions, some cyclocross tyres are a good option too. At 32mm to 35mm wide (the UCI-limit is 33mm for racing, if you care), they’re typically narrower than gravel tyres.

This can sometimes help with grip as – in theory at least – the tyre can cut into the mud and down into harder surfaces, where a wider gravel tyre might float over it or clog. The narrower tyre also means that you’re less likely to get mud clogging your frame – handy if clearances are tight, which they often are on cyclocross bikes or older gravel bikes.

If you’re running 650b tyres, again there’s a range of gravel tyres with different tread patterns available, although there are fewer options than with 700c.

650b gravel tyres are typically (but not always) focused on high-volume options, so you’re more likely to find tyres with more aggressive tread patterns and in large sizes. These tend to start out at 40mm and head up to 50mm wide or more.

27.5in mountain bike tyres are also an option and may offer a deeper tread for more grip. Confusingly, MTB tyre size is often designated in inches rather than millimetres. You’ll want to check you’ve got clearance in your frame for some of the wider options.

Tyre pressure

Along with tread pattern and width, tyre pressure is a big determinant of how your gravel bike will handle.

The large air volume of wider tyres means that you can drop your pressure, giving you better traction, potentially lower rolling resistance and a more comfortable ride.

Giving a rough starting point for tyre pressure is a tricky business because it is so dependent on riding style, rider weight and terrain. However, as a guide, we would recommend around 40psi for a 40mm-wide 700c tyre, though you can usually drop below this. With a wide 650b tyre – something in the 45mm+ range – 35psi is a good starting point.

It’s worth experimenting with tyre pressure to see what works for your tyre choice and where you ride. Too high and you’ll get bounced around and lose grip, while too low a pressure may result in sloppy handling and extra pedalling effort, as the tyre squirms on the rim.

Tyre pressure that’s too low may also result in you bottoming out on the rim, if you’re riding on uneven surfaces. If you’re using inner tubes that might result in a pinch flat, but with a tubeless tyre that’s not a problem.

Experiment, take notes and think about investing in a digital pressure gauge. This will make future fiddling far easier, more accurate and, critically, repeatable.

Finishing kit

Some gravel bikes come with flared handlebars, which are wider in the drops than at the tops. That means that you’ve got a bit more control when descending or riding hard off-road. It does cause the brake levers to sit at an angle though; the ergonomics can feel a bit awkward with a very wide flare.

Another gravel bike trend borrowed from mountain bikes is towards shorter stems. Whereas a road bike might have a 100mm stem, on a gravel bike this might drop to 70 or 80mm. That again helps with steering on awkward trails, as well as reducing the effective reach to the bars.

You’ll want a comfortable saddle too. There’s a benefit in having a longer saddle that will allow you to shift your weight around to tackle obstacles and descents, although quite a few gravel bikes now come fitted with stubby designs.

A growing number of gravel bikes are specced with dropper posts too, albeit with limited options. Some frames, however, will have ports to allow you to route the cable for an aftermarket dropper post, if you choose to upgrade.

Most gravel bikes have a 27.2mm seatpost and we’ve seen a number of dropper posts launched to fit that diameter. Shimano, meanwhile, offers dropper post compatibility with its GRX ST-RX810-LA lever, so you can use a dropper from the shifter, while SRAM also now offers dropper post compatibility with its Force, Rival and Apex 1x groupsets.

A dropper post lets you quickly lower your saddle, allowing you to shift your weight back and so it’s not in the way on tricky descents. However, it will add weight and complexity to your build, so is best saved for gravel bikes intended for use on properly technical terrain. Or there’s always a mountain bike.

Lights

If you’re going for an extended trip on your gravel bike, you may want to fit lights. There’s a huge range of different designs with different light intensities and run times available, and what works for you will again depend on your riding.

For off-road rides in the dark, a high-intensity mountain bike front light with an output of 1,000 lumens or more will give you good illumination, perhaps coupled to a helmet lamp to help see around bends in the trail.

That might be overkill when riding on a road and could dazzle oncoming vehicles, though the vast majority of lights will have multiple settings so you can dim output when required.

Battery life might be an issue too. If you’re on a long ride and want to avoid running out of power, some lights are compatible with a separate power bank or a second battery for a quick recharge.

For unlimited power, you could fit a front wheel with a dynamo hub to keep your lights charged as you ride. Dynamo lights are typically smaller than battery ones. Some gravel bikes have routing for the cable from the dynamo through the leg.

Navigation

If you’re used to riding signposted roads, working out where you’re going on gravel tracks, bridleways, forest roads and trails may come as a bit of a shock. Even if you think you know where you’re going, conditions on the ground may make it difficult to choose the correct path.

A GPS bike computer is a useful accessory for gravel riders. Most mid- to high-end GPS units will have base maps that show some trails, although these are not always 100 per cent accurate. The more you spend on a computer, the bigger and more detailed the screen is likely to be – useful for navigating.

It’s worthwhile mapping out a planned route on software such as Komoot or Strava, uploading it to the GPS and following it if you’re unfamiliar with where you’re riding. That way, your computer can provide turn-by-turn directions or, if you do get lost, it should help guide you back to where you wanted to head.

If you’re going a long way or are on a multi-day bikepacking or touring trip, battery life might be an issue. As with your lights, you may want to carry a power bank or fit a dynamo hub to keep you charged up. A paper map is a good back-up to get you out of trouble.

Luggage

Another typical feature of gravel bikes is lots of mounting bolts on different parts of the frame, letting you carry extra provisions and luggage.

You’ll usually get mudguard and rack mounts, although gravel bikes don’t tend to come fitted with either of these accessories as standard – they’re more likely to be found on commuting bikes and touring bikes.

There are usually mounts for a third water bottle cage on the underside of the down tube, upping your water carrying capacity if you’re going off-grid or allowing you to use a dedicated tool keg. Some gravel bikes will come with extra mounting bolts on the fork too.

Rather than a traditional rack and panniers, most gravel riders will use bikepacking luggage if they’re planning a longer expedition. That usually starts with a saddle pack and may include a bar roll and frame packs too. A gravel bike will sometimes have bolts at the front end of the top tube, letting you fix a feed box there.

The bottom line

The great thing about a gravel bike is its versatility; you can use it for everything from rides that are mostly on the road with a few sections of loose surface thrown in, to full-blown multi-day off-road excursions. The gravel bike that works for you will depend on where on that riding spectrum you fall.

However, there’s enough adaptability both in gravel frames and the range of components out there that you can easily swap out your kit and adapt your gravel setup to different aims and conditions. Expect to swap out tyres and possibly gearing for different terrain and seasons, and to fine-tune your spec over time to match your objectives.

To some extent, getting your setup right is down to getting out, riding and seeing what works for you – then, as you plan your next adventure, you can adapt your bike accordingly.

Belgian brand Ridley has announced an all-new carbon aero gravel bike with a unique gearing arrangement. 

The Kanzo Fast combines standard 1× groupset components with a 2-speed wirelessly-operated internal gear hub from Classified, another Belgium-based brand and one that’s new to the market. 

While the Kanzo Fast borrows aero features from the Noah Fast road bike, the Classified system aims to combine the best features of 1× and 2× systems, with the downsides of neither. 

The Kanzo Fast will be available this September in Shimano GRX RX800, GRX Di2, and SRAM Rival 1 builds as standard, with pricing to be confirmed. 

We’ll be updating this story when we have more details on the Kanzo Fast, but here are the key facts. 

Kanzo Fast: the “fastest gravel bike in the world”

The bike also features the Noah’s F-Wing fork nubbins, along with fully-internal cabling and a distinctive fork-to-down tube transition. 

Ridley claims that, at an unspecified speed, the Kanzo Fast saves 17 watts over an “ordinary gravel bike” and is within 4 watts of the Noah Fast “across all the yaw angles”. The brand calls the Kanzo Fast “the fastest gravel bike in the world”.

We’re used to seeing dropped seatstays on the latest bikes, but the Kanzo Fast’s are particularly low, in aid of rear-end comfort according to Ridley product manager Bert Kenens. Compliance is further enhanced by the D-section seatpost, which is intended to allow additional flex. 

Because it’s designed to work with the Classified rear hub, the Kanzo Fast’s frame is 1×-only. We’re awaiting confirmation, but from the press photos it appears that, despite the bike’s racy intentions, it may feature mudguard mounts, a welcome bonus. 

The Kanzo Fast features “smooth gravel geometry” (we’ve not seen the numbers yet), clearance for 42mm tyres, and it’s matched to a one-piece gravel-specific cockpit with short drop and reach and a 16-degree flare on the drops. 

Claimed weight for the frame is 1,190g (for a medium with lacquer), plus 490g for the fork. A complete bike with Forza Vardar wheels and Shimano GRX Di2 is said to weigh 8.55kg. 

Classified rear hub: a unique front derailleur alternative

Its 2-speed rear-hub based system is controlled wirelessly and claims to be able to shift in just 150 milliseconds, and under full load up to 1,000 watts. 

It offers ratios of 1:1 and 0.7:1, giving a total gear range of  between 358 per cent with an 11-27 cassette and 451 per cent with an 11-34. 

Incidentally, there’s no conventional freehub, the Classified hub accepts proprietary cassettes that are machined from solid steel. 

The hub itself contains no battery but the “smart wireless thru-axle” does. Shifting is activated by induction coils in the axle, and a single charge is claimed to allow over 10,000 shifts. 

Where conventional internal gear hubs are usually fairly heavy, Classified claims combining its system with a 1× drivetrain makes for bikes that are as light or lighter than conventional 2×-equipped bikes. 

The brand also believes its system is more efficient overall than a conventional 1× setup because it reduces the amount of cross-chaining. Efficiency is said to be similar to that of a 2× drivetrain, helped by the fact that there’s no smaller chainring up front – smaller rings are inherently less efficient. 

Ridley Kanzo Fast pricing and availability

The Kanzo Fast will be available from 1 September, with pricing to be confirmed. In addition to two standard paintjobs, buyers have the option of going fully bespoke with Ridley’s Customizer programme. 

If you didn’t see my byline on many articles last week, it’s because I was away enjoying sunny weather and riding my bike without a care in the world. But, by heck, what a whirlwind of news and views I returned to from some well-earned R&R!

It’s taken me all day to read up on the latest happenings in the world of cycling, so before I show you this week’s swag, here’s a selection of articles I’d missed, and needed to catch up on…

If curly bars are your thing, then take a peek at the new Wilier Cento10 SL – a more affordable version of its simply stunning aero Cento10 Pro.

The new Canyon Ultimate CFR is at the other end of the scale, and marks the marque’s entry in to the ‘hey look, these are the super, super high-end special versions of our bikes’ style of bike (similar to S-Works, Project One or Hi-Mod bikes from other big players). We also saw a CFR version of the Sender DH bike this week.

We were blown away by a titanium bike that could easily pass as carbon and, finally, if you like riding your curly-barred bike indoors, you might be interested in the new Wahoo Kickr smart trainer.

For fans of flatter handlebars and knobblier tyres, have a peek at Yeti’s 2021 range round-up, or perhaps Giant’s new Trance X 29 – a mid-travel aggressive trail bike from the Taiwanese brand.

Want more news from Giant? How’s about its Talon range that starts at a pocket-friendly £399. Another huge brand, Merida, this week showcased its new Big.Trail and Big.Nine hardtails too.

And now, before we crack on with the product, have you caught our latest podcasts? From interviews with F1-turned bike designers and Tour de France’s Ned Boulting t0 Tech Q&As and why XC is the hottest form of mountain biking around, we’ve plenty of pods to catch up on and subscribe to for future episodes.

Facom Bit Set 1/4in 31 Piece R180

You might have seen a number of fancy tools appearing in First Look Friday over the past few years, largely thanks to Jack Luke’s affinity for using the right tool for the job, especially if it’s niche and/or very, very shiny.

Facom isn’t exactly the smallest brand around, but it makes some lovely tools, including this 31-piece socket set, which while not bicycle-specific, has plenty of bits that will work nicely on your bike.

• Here’s why you shouldn’t buy the cheapest tools