Yes, you did read that correctly – one million miles.

Having initially started logging his mileage in 1952, Russ Mantle, a retired civil servant from Aldershot, has since cycled an average of 14,700 miles a year. Even at the tender age of 82, he’s still cycled 8,000 miles in 2019 .

As Cycling UK points out in its short film about Mantle, that’s the equivalent of cycling to the moon and back, twice, or circumnavigating the Earth 40 times.

Mantle, a life member of Cycling UK – a charity that has championed cycling in the UK for more than 140 years – completed his millionth mile on Thursday 7 November and, like any decent British cyclist, stopped for cake at a local cafe in Mytchett, Hampshire.

He has no intention of stopping either, saying: “I haven’t really been going for it, the miles have just naturally piled up because I enjoy cycling so much that it’s just natural to be a mile-eater. Hitting a million miles is just another milestone. On to the next one. Maybe when I’m 100 I’ll make two million!”

And even though it wasn’t all logged on Strava, we’ll give him a pass. Mantle instead logged all of his miles in paper diaries, including trips to America, Canada and Europe, as well as the results of his many time trial wins during his racing years, from 1953 to 1975.

Russ is truly an example to all of us who turn the pedals. Congratulations!

SwiftCarbon teased the RaceVox Disc at the 2018 edition of Eurobike and this year’s show gave us the opportunity to check out the finished version of the Portuguese company’s latest race bike.

The RaceVox is described as a ‘category-breaker’ and is designed to offer aerodynamics, comfort and low weight in one package.

With that in mind, all cables are hidden and the bottle bosses are recessed to apparently improve aerodynamics. SwiftCarbon has also used Vision’s Metron 5D integrated cockpit to keep the front-end clean.

• Save up to 47% on SwiftCarbon bikes via Cycle to Work and the Green Commute Initiative

Meanwhile, the seatstays are dropped to offer more comfort, and there’s also clearance for 28mm tyres (you can probably squeeze in 30mm tyres, according to SwiftCarbon, depending on the rim width).

As for weight, SwiftCarbon says the flagship RaceVox comes in at 7.1kg.

That top-end bike with Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 and Reynolds AR wheels costs £6,290 through the SwiftCarbon website.

You also have the option of bikes with Ultegra Di2 (£4,840), mechanical Ultegra (£3,590) and Shimano 105 (£2,690).

There is more to life than cycling. That might seem like a strange thing for a bike journalist to say, but it’s true.

My livelihood depends on readers like you buying bikes. I exist to trickle oil onto Big Bike’s delicate freehub pawls, to pump grease into capitalism’s ready nipple. 

I need you to read about bikes, think about bikes, and buy bikes. But please do other stuff too.

• Why I’m an e-MTB convert
• I drove Skoda’s car for cyclists and it’s downright silly but well intentioned

Cycling is a glorious, beautiful thing. In many ways, it has transformed my life. It’s taken me to incredible places, given me physical fitness and a career, and introduced me to lifelong friends and my soon-to-be wife. 

I also love bicycles themselves, first as a mode of transport, but also as machines. 

I didn’t really come to cycling for the sport, originally. My first bicycle as an adult was an absolutely awful Emmelle mountain bike that I bought to ride to university in Edinburgh. 

As someone who always enjoyed tinkering, I quickly decided that I needed to make it better, or at least less of a deathtrap, which meant fixing the brakes and putting non-lethal tyres on it.

Being terminally acquisitive, I quickly outgrew the pig iron special, and in my first two years of cycling, I bought a further nine bikes, two of which I still own more than a decade later. 

I experienced full-blown obsession and, during this time, my every waking thought seemed to be interrupted by carbon frame daydreams and freehub fancies. 

On the one hand, I was revelling completely in my new found love of riding and experiencing a level of physical fitness I’d never come close to before, but on the other, I was driven by a nakedly materialistic urge to buy and buy and buy new things. 

I was never content with what I had and fretted constantly about expensive ways to upgrade my gear.

Since then, a privileged position in the bike industry has afforded me the ability to step back slightly and be more thoughtful in my choices. I’m lucky enough that I get to ride lots of bikes and try all sorts of kit without committing to it financially.  

This has had the curious effect of almost completely killing my acquisitive urges (at least in the realm of cycling). Where once I was fixated on the new and shiny, I now prize the familiar and comfortable above all. 

The bikes I enjoy the most are not necessarily the most technologically advanced and expensive, but rather those that I’ve spent enough time riding to have formed a bond with them, customising them to my needs and (go on, cringe) making memories on them. 

If you look at the Instagram feed of anyone involved in cycling, it’s easy to be tricked into thinking that they live and breathe bikes to the exclusion of everything else because that’s the image they’ve chosen to project to the world. 

View this post on Instagram

Am I channeling Laurent Fignon or Timmy Mallett with my #AW19 hill climb look? ????‍♀️????????‍♂️ Sensational snap by bad man Bromley @simonbromley . #hotboizofbikeradar #youvebeeninfluenced #overpromise #underdeliver #hillclimb #roadcycling

A post shared by Jack Luke (@jacquelucque) on Oct 8, 2019 at 3:21pm PDT

Yes, #outsideisfree and it’s great that you’re out riding in all weathers, but it’s also okay not to. 

I don’t want to diminish anyone’s enjoyment of cycling, whether that comes from doing massive rides or obsessing over componentry.

But I do think that there is more to life than just cycling, and I think not letting a single pastime rule your life is probably healthier. 

Don’t feel like going for a ride? Okay, don’t. Spend some time with a loved one instead. Rub your dog’s belly. Make a pie.

There is no reward in heaven for miles logged or KOMs claimed. If those metrics are the things that motivate you then that’s absolutely fine, but I’d still encourage all riders to be self-critical about their motivations. 

Are you doing big miles because you want to or because you feel like you should? Are you shopping for a new bike because it’s going to make a meaningful difference to your riding or because you need the dopamine rush of an expensive purchase to fill the keening void at the centre of your being?

Life is not one-dimensional. Bicycles are truly splendid, but there’s a whole world of other things out there to experience. 

Please keep riding bikes and reading about them on BikeRadar dot com, but don’t just do those things. Be a rounded human being and sample all of life’s pleasures. You only get one go at this. 

These are 27 of the best gravel bikes that we have tested.

Gravel and all-road are terms used for this rapidly growing segment of the drop bar bike market. These bikes have generous tyre clearance and geometry that is more stable and forgiving than traditional road bikes.

Gravel bikes were born out of the American Midwest, where racing on gravel roads took hold a decade ago and has steadily gained popularity.

In the early days, riders tackled these endurance events on cyclocross bikes with the largest tyres that would fit between the stays. Today, there are numerous purpose-built machines that gravel-curious riders can choose from.

On the subject of gravel riding

• What is gravel riding? Our guide for those looking to start out
• The best gravel bike tyres
• The best shoes for gravel riding
• Get started with gravel grinding

The best gravel bikes in 2020, as rated by our expert testers

• Canyon Grail Al 7.0: £1,349 / $1,899 / AU$2,199
• Genesis Datum 20: £2,399.99 / AU$4,675
• Giant Revolt Advanced 0: £2,999 / $3,465 / AU$4,299
• Lauf True Grit: $4,990, international pricing TBC
• Marin Gestalt X11: £1,799 / $2,100
• Merida Silex 700: £2,100, international pricing TBC
• Ribble CGR Ti: £2,099, international pricing TBC
• Rondo Ruut AL Disc: £1,699 / $2,200
• Trek Checkpoint SL6: £3,400 / $2,899 / AU$4,699
• Vielo V+1: £5,499, international pricing TBC
• BiVi Bunker Malvern: £1,399 international pricing TBC
• Cannondale Slate: £2,499.99 / $2,899–$3,499
• Cannondale Topstone Apex: £1,799 / $2,100
• Cipollini MCM Allroad: £5,800, international pricing TBC
• Fuji Jari 1.3: £1,349, international pricing TBC
• GT Grade Carbon Pro: £3,500 / $3,900 / €3,799
• Kinesis Tripster AT: £1,800 / $1,990
• Lauf Anywhere: $3,340, international pricing TBC
• Norco Search XR: £1,599–£3,999 / $1,999–$4,199
• Pinnacle Arkose Dirt D3: £1,300/ $1,463
• Ribble CGR 725 Steel: £1,199 / $1,257 / AU$1,965
• Rondo Ruut CF01: £3,299 / $3,399 / AU$4,999
• Rose Backroad Ultegra: £2,314 / €2,549
• Salsa Cutthroat: £2,399.99–£3,500 / $2,499–$4,299
• Specialized Diverge: £799—£8,500 / $1,100—$9,000
• Specialized Sequoia Elite: £2,000 / $2,000 / AU$2,500
• 3T Exploro: £3,950–£5,800 / $2,999–$6,800

Canyon Grail Al 7.0

• Head to Canyon’s website to buy factory direct

• Named as our best all-round bike in our 2019 Bike of the Year awards
• Amazing performance for the money
• 700c x 40mm tyre clearance

Winner of the best all-round bike in our 2019 Bike of the Year awards, the alloy version of the Grail ditches the ‘hover bar‘ for a standard cockpit, and is combined with an 80mm stem for a lively ride.

The alloy frame also loses the bump in the top tube, features heavily hydroformed tubing and oversized 1 1/4in steering and a full carbon fork.

With a 50/34t crankset mated with an 11-34t cassette, the Grail gives you a 1:1 climbing gear. The Schwalbe G-Ones performed well, but durability is likely to come into play.

We were most surprised by the Grail AL’s performance, especially considering the price.

• Read our Canyon Grail AL 7.0 review
• Buy the Grail AL 7.0 direct from Canyon

Genesis Datum 20

• Super comfortable but springy ride
• Confidence-inspiring long and low position
• 700 x 45mm tyre clearance

While the Datum isn’t a featherweight at 9.29kg, the bike more than made up for the mediocre performance on the scale with its ride quality. Our tester loved the spring up to speed when you put a bit of pressure on the pedals and the dynamic ride feel.

It’s slightly longer and lower than most gravel bikes, but the stretched front end, flared bars and 72-degree head angle make for a safe and stable feel so you can confidently push when things get greasy or gravelly. At the back, a 27.2mm seatpost and leaf-spring stays work together to eat road vibrations.

In a throwback to the origins of the gravel and all-road bike, the Datum 20 is not without its quirks with a 15mm front thru-bolt in the fork and a quick release skewer at the back.

• Read our Genesis Datum 20 review

Giant Revolt Advanced 0

• Amazing spec for the cash
• Highly versatile frameset
• 700 x 45mm tyre clearance

You can see much of Giant’s TCR, Defy and TCX models when it comes to the Revolt, but this is very much a chassis dedicated to gravel duties.

Happy with either 700 x 45mm tyres or up to 2in tyres with 650b wheels in place, the Revolt proved superbly cossetting across every surface we tested on. Its spec is also exceptionally well-chosen and represents great value for money.

With a 32×34 gear ratio at the bottom end, the Revolt can really take you anywhere a bike like this can be ridden. The stock spec wants for nothing and the main way of tweaking performance will be tyre choice.

The versatility of this bike is really something too, it’s easily adaptable for commuting, road training, gravel racing or adventuring with luggage attached.

• Read our Giant Revolt Advanced 0 review

Lauf True Grit

• The innovative fork makes a real difference in rough terrain
• Very lightweight builds possible
• 700 x 40mm tyre clearance

The True Grit is pegged as a gravel racer, designed to chug through miles of tarmac-free road at warp speed.

With a low front end, the position is aggressive and there are no rack or fender mounts to speak of, but there are four bottle bosses. The rear end is designed around 142mm hub spacing, and the bottom bracket is threaded.

Most notably, the bike comes with the Grit fork, allowing for 30mm of leaf-sprung front travel, which takes the corner off square edges.

Despite its aggressive riding position, the handling is calm and the 7.8kg weight means there’s not too much heft to lug uphill or manhandle through techy obstacles.

• Read our Lauf True Grit Race Edition review

Marin Gestalt X11

• Mountain bike-inspired geometry is astonishingly capable
• Dropper post makes it a joy to ride in rowdy terrain
• 700c x 42mm tyre clearance

Marin has a long history in mountain biking and has adapted some of the lessons learned with the current crop of ever longer and slacker mountain bikes into the Gestalt X11 gravel bike.

With a slack front end and a steep seat angle, the bike puts you in an aggressive pedalling position, yet maintains predictable, surprise free handling on and off the road. The combination of an angled top tube and hydraulic dropper post allows Gestalt to get into some pretty unruly terrain.

Remembering that this is still a drop bar road bike, it’s got a full carbon fork, a range of rack mounts and will take up to a 42mm x 700c tyre or a 47mm tyre when using 650b wheels. The only real complaint we can muster is about the saddle.

• Read our Marin Gestalt X11 review

Merida Silex 700

• Unique geometry translates into uniquely competent handling
• Huge versatility
• 700 x 42mm or 650b x 50mm tyre clearance

Initially, the Merida Silex left our testers a bit flummoxed with its oddly high riding positing. However, the bike’s nimble character and willingness to accelerate over obstacles prevailed.

Weighing in at 9.59kg, there is a bit of extra heft to drag up the climbs, but the 50/34t crankset and 11-34t rear cluster allow for a 1:1 granny gear combo to help you spin your way up.

With the ability to take 700 x 42mm or 650b x 50mm tyres, our test bike came with 35mm semi-slick rubber which performed considerably better than expected, even at reasonably high pressures. Better still were the Shimano hydraulic disc brakes offering oodles of power and modulation.

• Read our Merida Silex 700 review

Ribble CGR Ti 650b

• Great value for money build
• Classic ti’ looks are hard to beat
• 700 x 47mm tyre clearance

Ribble’s CGR Ti presents exceptional value for money and buckets of versatility but, let’s get real here — it’s the classic brushed titanium finish that really got us excited.

The frame isn’t just a pretty face, though — at 1,700g it’s not too heavy for a non-carbon frame and, with generous clearances alongside mudguard mounts, it’s super versatile to boot.

• Read our Ribble CGR Ti 650b review

Rondo Ruut AL Disc

• Clever switchable geometry
• Great build kit
• Very comfortable

As a relative of our 2019 Bike of the Year, we had a sneaky suspicion that the Rondo Ruut AL Disc was going to be good and we weren’t wrong.

The sculpted aluminium frame is dressed in a great selection of kit including SRAM’s excellent 1x gearing and hydraulic disc brakes.

The wheels don’t only look great but they’re tubeless-ready and play nicely with the 43mm wide Panaracer Gravel King tyres.

Then comes this bike’s party piece: a patented oval insert at the fork lets you swap between two different geometries, subtly altering stack, reach, length, fork offset, head and seat angles. That means you can alter the bike to offer a racier or more relaxed feel depending on which terrain you’re tackling.

It’s good on road and great off road but also includes all the fittings you could require for bikepacking.

Read our Rondo Ruut AL Disc review

Trek Checkpoint SL6

• IsoSpeed decoupler improves comfort massively
• The bike strikes a good balance between high-speed gravel cruisability and low-speed stability
• 700c x 40mm tyre clearance

Sitting at the top of Trek’s range of gravel bikes, the Checkpoint SL6 carries the brand’s IsoSpeed decoupler on the seat tube to make rough and tumble gravel roads feel almost velvety smooth, with the fork being no slouch in this department either.

At the back, the Checkpoint also gets a dropped driveside chainstay to leave extra room for tyres and mud and is said to accept up to 40mm rubber.

The Checkpoint SL 6 comes with a 50/34t crankset and 11-34t cassette, giving a 1:1 climbing gear for when the gravel gets really steep.

We found the Checkpoint leaned towards faster rolling terrain and wasn’t as confident in techy mud and rocks. Even still, the bike finds a good balance between high-speed gravel cruising and low-speed rock crawling.

• Read our Trek Checkpoint SL6 review

Vielo V+1

• Super light and comfortable frameset
• Dropper improves control in rough terrain
• 700 x 45mm tyre clearance

Vielo’s V+1 is built around one of the lightest gravel frames on the market, with the (claimed) sub-900g frame and sub-400g fork giving a really lively, exciting and fast ride.

Uniquely, the bike is built around a RockShox Reverb dropper post, which massively improves confidence in rough terrain.

• Read our Vielo V+1 review
• Buy the V+1 direct from Vielo

BiVi Bunker Malvern

• Charming retro appeal
• Mountain bike derived drivetrain
• Something a little different

This one’s a bit of a wildcard, you can either see it as an on-trend flat bar gravel adventure bike or a retro mountain bike with a few modern touches.

Either way, the Bunker is an appealing, versatile choice and something a little different to the rest of the bikes in this list.

We really enjoyed the way this bike combines a retro ride experience with some modern niceties. The 1×11 SRAM GX drivetrain is a good example of this, offering dependable and smooth shifts that are endlessly more appealing than the loose triple setup a 90’s MTB would wear.

• Read the full review of the BiVi Bunker Malvern

Cannondale Slate Ultegra

• Lefty Oliver fork adds rough terrain compliance
• Good deals to be found on bike
• 650b x 42mm tyre clearance

Credit where credit is due: Cannondale got out ahead of the gravel trend compared to the other big companies. Sure, small brands such as Salsa have been at it for years, but Cannondale’s 650b front suspension drop-bar bike pushed the gravel envelope early.

With clearance for up to 42mm tyres and 30mm of suspension on the Lefty Oliver, the Slate gives you options.

The Slate is now officially discontinued but great deals can still be found on this once groundbreaking bike.

• Read our Cannondale Slate Ultegra review

Cannondale Topstone Apex

• Super clean and well-equipped alloy frame
• Tall and relaxed ride position is great for all-day riding
• 700c x 42mm tyre clearance

While Cannondale was one of the first mainstream brands to go #fullgravel with the Slate, for some, putting a Lefty suspension fork on a drop bar bike was a tad too radical.

The brand’s latest entry to the gravel market should satisfy those who are looking for something a bit more traditional and are on a budget.

The alloy frame is well presented with clean finishing and plenty of bottle, rack and fender mounts throughout. The geometry offers a tall, relaxed position, and with a 50mm dropper you can get your butt all the way back to the tyre on steep descents.

Unfortunately, when things go back up, the Topstone isn’t exactly a mountain goat thanks a bit of junk in the trunk, tipping our scales at 10.26kg.

The bike handles pretty similarly to Cannondale’s SuperX cyclocross bike, but with a longer wheelbase and lower bottom bracket, it’s a confident descender.

• Read our Cannondale Topstone Apex review

Cipollini MCM Allroad

• Fast and stiff frameset
• Stable handling
• 700 x 40mm tyre clearance

Cipollini’s MCM Allroad gravel bike is the brand’s first off-road focussed model and available in a number of builds, with this SRAM Force-1 equipped bike coming in at a fairly heady £5,800.

Out on the (gravel) road, the bike is stiff, fast and well mannered, but the slightly uneven finish and middling tyre clearance is slightly disappointing for the money.

• Read our Cipollini MCM Allroad review
• Buy the MCM Allroad from your latest Cipollini dealer

Fuji Jari 1.3

• Usefully low gearing
• Ideal for bikepacking
• A fun if not particularly fast ride

The Jari 1.3 isn’t particularly light, neither is it that quick. But it’s a top choice if you’re looking for a comfortable, practical and versatile gravel bike that’ll cope with just about every surface you throw at it.

The aluminium frame and carbon fork include plenty of fittings for touring or bikepacking accessories as well as the usual mudguard mounts.

The SRAM 1x drivetrain starts out with a really low crawler gear that will become your very best friend when climbing or riding off road.

We were also big fans of the 38mm tubeless-compatible Panaracer Gravel King tyres that come with this bike. We’d have preferred to have seen hydraulic rather than mechanical disc brakes, but at this price, you simply can’t have it all.

Read the full review of the Fuji Jari 1.3

GT Grade Carbon Pro

• Trail adjusting flip chip on fork improves handling between wheel sizes
• Super comfortable ride
• 700c x 42mm tyre clearance

GT’s Grade was one of the first adventure / all-road / gravel bikes, and at the time it was well ahead of the curve in terms of versatility, but after four years, it had become a bit of a dinosaur. Newly revamped, the Grade has matured into a fully-fledged gravel grinder.

The bike still has the signature ‘triple triangle’ at the back, but the seat tube is now entirely free-floating and the seatstays have lost some girth allowing for heaps of compliance.

GT has also added a rear thru-axle and employed a flip chip in the fork to allow the trail figure to be adjusted by 15mm for changeable handling characteristics.

Tyre clearance has also been upped to 700c x 42 mm, and the brand has added mounts galore with the carbon versions capable of carrying five bottles and the alloy version eight.

The position on the bike has been lowered and lengthened a touch, and the handling is confident even when the road or trail gets treacherous — the bike has become more cable overall than its predecessor.

Even better, the flagship model in the range comes with a sensible Ultegra Di2 2x build drivetrain and WTB wheels and tyres.

We’re yet to complete a full scored review on this bike but early impressions are very positive.

• Read our GT Grade Carbon Pro first ride review

Kinesis Tripster AT

• Very capable for a budget-focussed frame
• Competitive build for the money
• 700 x 45mm tyre clearance

Using design ideas from the late Mike Hall, the Tripster AT began its life as the ATR titanium all-rounder and has now evolved into a more budget-friendly aluminium version.

The bike will take 650b x 52mm or 700 x 45mm rubber, and has room for three bottles with room for a frame bag.

With an on-trend gravel geometry and tipping our scales at 9.6kg it’s not the lightest bike, but on paper it’s a very competitive gravel ride.

In practice, the handling is rock solid but the frame has a firm ride quality, even with the 40mm Schwalbe G-One tyres at relatively low pressure.

The drivetrain is geared towards adventuring with a 40t chainring at the front and an 11-42t at the back, and the simplicity of the 1x drivetrain did not go unnoticed. However, the tight bend in the flared drop bars lacks space for riders with big mitts.

• Read our Kinesis Tripster AT review

Lauf Anywhere

• Same great race-ready frame as the True Grit
• Regular fork opens up options for mounting luggage
• 700c x 45mm tyre clearance

When you think of Lauf, the first thing that comes to mind is its crazy looking leaf spring fork, which allows for 30mm of front travel. However, the brand’s Anywhere gravel grinder doesn’t get one and instead it comes with what Lauf calls a JAF or ‘Just a Fork.’

The frame features its Long-4-Speed geometry, which entails a short head-tube, lengthy top-tube and short chainstays paired with a short stem and a slack (for a road bike) head angle. The idea is that it’s stable at speed but lets you get tucked up in an aero position when the need arises.

Lauf has also opted for a threaded bottom bracket shell, full-length internal cable guides and mounts galore, but the bike has no provisions for mudguards/fenders.

As the name implies, the Anywhere rides well on both tarmac and F-Roads as they’re known in Iceland (gravel roads) as well as smooth singletrack, but is somewhat limited by the 40mm slick tyres that come stock.

• Read our Lauf Anywhere review
• Buy the Anywhere direct from Lauf

Norco Search XR

• Mudguard and rack mounts improve year-round rideability and versatility
• Size-specific wheel sizes mean all riders get the same geometry
• 700c x 45mm or 650b x2.1in tyre clearance

A few companies have gravel race bikes that aren’t too dissimilar from road bikes: stiff, fast and limited clearance. On the other hand, some of the smaller core gravel brands have gone off the deep-end intro true bikepacking weirdness.

If somewhere in between this sounds right to you, let us introduce the Goldilocks of gravel… the Norco Search XR.

The Search can handle the big tyres if you want that, and mounts can be added at discreet points if you want to add fenders or load on racks. And yes, you can load up bottle cages on the fork as well as the frame if you’re into that too.

The Norco is an excellent all-around gravel bike that is a joy to ride, damping the rough chatter a bit without feeling like a plodding mule.

Norco sells this in steel and carbon versions, with not only size-specific frame design but size-specific wheel choices, so shorter riders can get the same geometry as larger riders without toe overlap.

• Read our Norco Search XR Ultegra review

Pinnacle Arkose Dirt D3

• Very practical and good value for money build
• Full complement of rack and mudguard mounts
• 700 x 45mm tyre clearance

Evans Cycles argues that the Arkose was a gravel bike before the term ground its way in to our collective consciousness. As it’s been around for several years, Evans has a point.

This latest iteration of the model gains a raft of tweaks that should widen its appeal to the maturing UK all-road bike market and, with such a large retailer behind it, it looks to be great value too.

• Read our Pinnacle Arkose Dirt D3 review

Ribble CGR 725 Steel

• Immensely versatile
• A touch on the heavy side
• Classy steel frame

The CGR 725 Steel gets its name from the slender Reynolds 725 steel tubes it’s constructed with. The frame offers not only a classy look but a cossetting ride that is more about comfort than smashing personal bests.

You can fit 700c, 29er or 650b wheels, making this is a chassis you can really tailor to your preferences. Rear rack mounts, clearance for up to 47mm tyres and bosses at the top tube add further versatility.

The CGR could happily clock commuting, fitness, adventure or even training rides.

At a smidge over 11kg, it’s a little weighty though, and the TRP mechanical discs are good rather than great.

• Read our Ribble CGR 725 Steel review

Rondo Ruut CF1

• Flip chip allows for a well-mannered ride on the road as well
• Good spec for the cash
• 700 x 40mm tyre clearance

Rondo’s Ruut — one of our key bikes of 2018 — has an interesting flip chip that allows riders to lower the front end to improve the bike’s handling on the road. We found this to be genuinely useful and backed up by a generally excellent ride quality overall.

The build is also decent for the money, though we’d like to see a dropper option added.

• Read our Rondo Ruut CF1 review

Rose Backroad Ultegra

• Typically impressive value for money from Rose
• Opportunity to refine specs
• 700 x 42mm tyre clearance

The Backroad is Rose’s take on a go-anywhere road bike that takes in the gravel genre too. In typical online retail style, value for money is high, and the price is usually not a round number.

The ride is a little firmer and the bottom bracket a bit higher than most but, overall, it’s a really well-rounded package.

• Read our Rose Backroad Ultegra review
• Buy the Backroad Ultegra direct from Rose

Salsa Cutthroat

• Perfect bikepacking rig
• Enormous tyre clearances
• 700c x 2.4in tyre clearance

Speaking of small companies that have been banging the gravel drum for years, Salsa has a whole range of gravel bikes. While the Warbird is the American company’s gravel racer, the Cutthroat is its burly bikepacking sibling.

There is no mistaking this guy for an endurance road bike. Consider: 445m chainstays, four-bottle capacity on a small frame and five bottles on M to XL frames, rack ready, top-tube bag mount ready, one or two chainring ready.

With its slack geometry and enormous clearance for up to 2.4in tyres plus, the Cutthroat is essentially a rigid 29er with dropbars. If your idea of a great ride finishes on a completely different day than when it starts, check out the Cutthroat.

Specialized Diverge Comp

• Future Shock system adds real comfort
• Super stable ride in rough terrain
• 700c x 42mm tyre clearance

Specialized introduced the Future Shock on its Roubaix endurance road bike, and while some of the BikeRadar crew loved it, others found it a little weird for a road bike. But a little suspension for the gravel? Now we’re talking.

The Future Shock is still undamped, but it has a stiffer spring on the Diverge, which boasts a low bottom bracket and slack front-end for stability in the rough stuff, and tyre clearance for 42mm 700c tyres or 47mm in 650b.

A women’s version of the bike is also available.

• Read our Specialized Diverge Comp review

Specialized Sequoia Elite

• Tour-ready steel chassis is very versatile
• Super comfy riding position
• 700 x 40mm tyre clearance

When you think of a gravel bike from Specialized, the first thing that comes to mind is the aforementioned Future Shock-equipped Diverge. While it may not grab headlines the way its suspended cousin does, Specialized’s Sequoia is no slouch on a dirt road.

With a steel frame and burly carbon fork, the Sequoia is more at home as a touring bike than a gravel racer — it’s a bike that wants to keep rolling, especially loaded down with luggage, but with an 11.85kg mass it’s not exactly nimble when negotiating potholes and ruts.

With the frame eating up quite a bit of the budget, the build kit is eclectic with a mix of Shimano 105 and non-series parts, FSA 2x cranks and Sunrace cassette, but they all play nice with one another.

• Read our Specialized Sequoia Elite review

3T Exploro

• Aero-optimised frame shape makes the Exploro a true racer
• Vast tyre clearances
• 700c x 40mm or 650b x 2.1in tyre clearance

The 3T Exploro is an aero gravel race bike. Sure, you can find plenty of stiffer, lighter endurance road bikes that might be faster on light-duty gravel, but the 3T Exploro is a legit gravel bike, with clearance for 40mm tyres in 700c or up to 2.1in in 650b.

3T claims the Exploro with 40mm knobbies and two water bottles is faster — aerodynamically — than a round-tube road bike with 28mm tyres and no bottles when tested at 20mph.

So if it’s speed you’re after on the gravel, this could be the rig for you.

• Read our 3T Exploro LTD review

You may also want to consider…

• Scott Addict Gravel 10
• Focus Paralane AL 105 review
• Raleigh Mustang Elite review
• Open Cycle U.P. first ride review
• Mason Bokeh Force review
• Orro Terra Gravel Road review
• Pinarello Grevil
• Reid Cycles Granite review

What is a gravel bike?

Four key features can usually be used to distinguish a gravel bike from a traditional road bike.

Wider tyres

First and foremost, gravel bikes have wider tyres. Since these bicycles are designed to traverse miles of unpaved roads, their tyres are substantially larger. Likewise, mud clearance is also a concern in these conditions.

Tyre widths range anywhere from 30mm to 48mm. In addition to 700c wheels, it is also common to see smaller diameter 650b wheels used with higher volume tyres.

Most gravel tyres feature a fast-rolling centre tread with knurling or side knobs to improve cornering ability on mixed surfaces. Tubeless tyres are also commonly found on gravel bikes, because the latex sealant provides a degree of insurance against punctures.

In addition to wider tyres, gravel bikes have geometry that favours stability and comfort.

Geometry

The wheelbase of a gravel bike is longer than most road bikes thanks to longer chainstays and slacker head-tube angles.

Head tubes are generally taller as well, placing the rider in a more relaxed, upright position. Bottom brackets are often lower, which gives the rider the sensation of riding in, rather than on the bicycle.

The end result of these geometry differences is a more comfortable, confidence-inspiring and forgiving ride than one would find in a typical road bike.

Gearing

Gearing is another area where these bikes diverge from the pack. Given the terrain, many gravel bikes feature compact or smaller gearing and wide-range cassettes.

Cranksets with 50/34 or 48/32t are common. Likewise, many gravel bikes come with 1x gearing and wide-range cassettes.

Suspension

In addition to wide tyres, relaxed geometry and low gearing, many gravel bikes have active or passive suspension systems built into them.

Much like bikes in the endurance road category, these features could take the form of slender chainstays, a bowed top tube, or a skinny seatpost, all of which are designed to flex in order to absorb road chatter.

Some gravel bikes take things one step further by using short-travel suspension forks such as the Lefty Oliver or aesthetically odd but very effective Lauf Grit fork.

How much do I have to spend on a gravel bike?

Well, that depends on what you define as a gravel bike. A used cyclocross bike, for example, could work perfectly well as a gravel bike and cost you a fraction of the cost of even the most basic ‘true’ gravel machine.

If you’re looking at a purpose-built gravel / all-road bike, expect to pay around £800 / $1,200 for an alloy frame with entry-level components.

A mid-range build from a major brand will likely cost in excess of £2,000 / $2,800 but should feature a carbon frame and hydraulic disc brakes.

As is normally the case in the cycling world, it’s possible to spend a small (or not so small) fortune on a custom-built bike should you wish.

Looking for the best mountain bike suspension fork? You’ve come to the right place. Buying a new suspension fork for your mountain bike is one of the priciest – and potentially most effective – upgrades you can make to your bike. Even when buying a complete bike, the fork it comes with is a serious consideration.

Either way, you’ll want a suspension fork that irons out the harshest of trail feedback, allowing your hands to last longer on the roughest tracks.

• Best mountain bike 2019: how to choose the right one for you
• How to set up your mountain bike suspension: video guides to help you get the most from your bike

You’ll want the fork to sit smoothly into the first part of its travel to keep your front wheel stuck to the ground. At the same time, it must offer enough support later in the travel to keep the bike from pitching and diving too easily.

You’ll also want enough stiffness to provide accurate and predictable steering, and enough adjustability to fine-tune the fork to your needs, but not so much that it’s a nightmare to setup. You probably want it to be as light as possible too, and hopefully not cost the earth!

We’ve tested forks to suit a broad range of budgets, making sure to include some top-shelf options because these are what people tend to buy as an upgrade to their bike.

We tested ten trail/enduro forks; all had 160mm travel, 29in spacing and 51mm offset to keep the comparison fair. Of course, all of these forks are available with a range of other wheel-size, travel and offset options.

How we tested

We tested all ten forks on the same bike, using identical tyre pressures and then measured sag and tested how much travel we could use by pushing down on the fork as hard as we could to get the forks setup in the same ball park.

This article explains how to get a fork setup correctly

Then we rode each fork on a mix of terrain, tweaking air pressure, volume spacers and damping settings until we were satisfied the forks were working at their best for the terrain and rider in question.

Next, we hammered them down a few choice test tracks, quickly swapping forks between runs to get the best possible idea of how they compare.

You can find out more about that process, and how all ten forks compared in this video.

RockShox Lyrik RC2 (2019)

• Price: £989 / $999
• Wheel size/travel options: 27.5in and 29in (tested), both with 150mm, 160mm (tested), 170mm and 180mm travel
• Weight: 2,019g (29in x 160mm)

This is our top pick for enduro and trail riding. The Lyrik offers the best off-the-top sensitivity in class, and that translates into a more settled, stuck down feel and more traction when initiating a turn or pattering over stutter bumps.

It’s also got a highly usable range of damping adjustment, with the most open settings providing a super-supple and comfortable ride, even on the longest, roughest tracks.

The spring still holds the fork up high in its travel under heavy braking, so there’s predictable and dependable support.

Setup isn’t entirely straightforward though. We’d recommend taking out one or both volume spacers supplied with the 160mm-travel fork, and adding considerably more pressure than RockShox recommends.

The only fork that came close to matching the Lyrik’s performance was the Fox 36 GRIP2, which was slightly more controlled in some rare situations, though not as supple over small bumps. On balance, we slightly preferred the Lyrik’s performance and it’s considerably cheaper too.

We’ve also ridden the 2020 Lyrik Ultimate, which offers even more comfort and puts the Lyrik further ahead of the pack.

• RockShox Lyrik RC2 review

Fox 36 Factory GRIP2

• Price: £1,139
• Wheel size / travel options: 27.5in with 160, 170, 180mm; 29in with 160 (tested), 170mm
• Weight: 2,091g (29in x 160mm)

The all-singing Fox 36 GRIP2 Factory is the most expensive fork we’ve tested. Fortunately, it’s got performance to match.

It’s  four-way adjustable damper has high-and low-speed adjustment for both compression and rebound damping. Fortunately, Fox nailed the setup guide, so it’s one of the easiest forks to get in the right ballpark despite the vast range of adjustments.

It’s also one of the best performers, particularly over big holes and choppy unpredictable ground, where the independent high-speed rebound adjustment seems to make it more controlled and calm when returning from deep in the stroke if, like us, you’re running a lot of pressure in the spring.

It’s not quite as sensitive off the top of the stroke as its arch rival, the RockShox Lyrik, though, so there isn’t quite as much traction in low-load situations.

While very active and supple over small bumps, it’s a little stingy with its travel over bigger impacts, even with the compression damping fully open. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but we would have liked the ability to run the high-speed compression a little more open for long-run comfort.

There were situations where the 36 was the best fork we’ve ever used, but on balance we preferred the Lyrik because it offers better traction and sensitivity. It’s also costs less.

• Fox 36 Factory GRIP2 review

Manitou Mezzer Pro (2020)

• Price: £899.99 / $999.99 / €1,050
• Wheelsize/travel options: 27.5in and 29in (tested), both adjustable between 140 and 180mm in 10mm increments. 160mm tested
• Weight: 2,093g (29in x 160mm)

The Mezzer’s a surprise performer, offering an excellent balance between small bump sensitivity and bottom-out resistance. It’s particularly capable no matter how deep into its travel or how hard you’re pushing it.

The chassis also hits the perfect balance of control, accuracy and compliance, feeling stiff when it needs to – such as under corner – but didn’t cause our front wheel to bounce or judder offline, also helping to reduce hand fatigue.

The MC2 damper’s high-speed compression is light enough to absorb fast impacts and proved to be incredibly supple. Its low-speed damping gives plenty of support through turns and compressions, adding to the capabilities of the impressive air spring.

Although the air spring is quite hard to set up – and you need to follow the supplied guide exactly – once you get it right, the performance that’s unlocked is virtually unparalleled on the trail.

If you’re looking to upgrade your fork and were considering a RockShox Lyrik or Fox 36 GRIP2 then the Mezzer has to be on your shortlist as well.

The Manitou Mezzer wasn’t tested as a part of this fork group test, and doesn’t feature in the video, but was tested and rated to the same criteria, and performed exceptionally well.

• Manitou Mezzer Pro review

Marzocchi Bomber Z1

• Price: £749
• Wheel size / travel options: 27.5in with 130, 140, 150, 160, 170mm; 29in with 150, 160 (tested), 170, 180mm
• Weight: 2,249g (29in x 160mm)

Marzocchi is now a sister-brand of Fox, and the Z1 shares a lot of features with the Fox 36 but is designed to hit a lower price point.

Because it uses a lower-grade aluminium in the upper tubes, it’s one of the heaviest enduro forks around at 2,249g, but the extra weight is not realistically noticeable on the trail.

The Z1 isn’t as soft at the very start of its travel as the Fox 36, or the Yari and Lyrik, so it needs a lower air pressure to get it to sag properly, along with a healthy stack of volume spacers to stop it using all of its travel too easily.

It still canters through the middle of its travel a bit more easily than those other forks too, making it feel a little less predictable and refined. But the flipside is that it swallows kerb-sized rocks like a champ, which means good long-run comfort.

The key comparison is to the RockShox Yari (below). The Z1 is more willing to swallow large impacts, making it more forgiving in those big-hit scenarios, but the Yari is more supple at the start of the stroke, offers more traction and more predictable support. It’s a touch lighter and cheaper too.

On balance, the Yari just edges it for us. But if big hit capability is your priority, and you can’t stretch to the RockShox Lyrik or Fox 36, the Z1 is a good option.

• Marzocchi Bomber Z1 review

RockShox Yari RC Debonair

• Prize: £695 / AU$1,200
• Wheel size / travel options: 150mm, 160mm (tested), 170mm and 180mm travel for 27.5in and 29in wheels
• Weight: 2,129g (29in x 160mm)

RockShox’ Yari uses the same stiff 35mm chassis as its pricier sibling, the Lyrik. It now gets the same super-supple and class-leading Debonair spring too.

The difference is in the damper. The Yari’s more simple Motion Control unit doesn’t provide the same digressive damping – blending low-speed support with high-speed suppleness – that you get from the Lyrik’s Charger damper.

As a result, it doesn’t feel quite as settled and supportive when braking, and occasionally spikes (feels harsh and fails to use much travel) when slapping down to earth with a thud.

Realistically, though, it’s rare that the less refined damper lets the side down, and this is compared to the best of the best.

The Yari offers better long-run comfort and small-bump traction than almost anything else on the market, including forks costing several hundred pounds more.

If the slightly unrefined damper bothers you, you can always upgrade it to a Lyrik spec further down the road.

• RockShox Yari RC Debonair review

DT Swiss F 535 ONE

• Price: £925
• Wheel size / travel options: 27.5in with 130, 140, 150, 160mm; 29in with 130, 140, 150, 160mm (tested)
• Weight: 2,160g (29in x 160mm)

DT Swiss has been making suspension forks for years, but the F 535 One marks a big step up in performance for the brand.

It takes an innovative approach to spring and damping technology and is one of the few forks we’ve tested that comes close to matching Fox and RockShox in performance terms.

The damper gets firmer the further it gets into its travel, boosting mid-stroke support while keeping it very supple at the very start. Meanwhile, a small coil spring sits on the end of the air spring, which is claimed to help speed up changes of direction for even more sensitivity.

On the trail, this does seem to work to an extent. DT’s setup website is easy to use and before long we had a good balance with impressive small-bump sensitivity and great traction.

On steep technical tracks the damper holds the fork up nicely too. In certain situations, with high-frequency chatter, it’s among the best performers.

However, it can get out of its depth when slamming into kerb-sized bumps or when it’s loaded up hard into hardpack turns, it isn’t nearly as smooth or predictable as its rivals. To be fair, DT says this fork is aimed more at the trail market, but it’s heavier than most enduro forks.

But if you’re not fussed about weight or smashing through choppy terrain, it’s well worth considering.

• DT Swiss F 535 ONE review

Also tested

Here you can find reviews to the rest of the forks we’ve tested, but which weren’t up to matching the performance of the very best.

DVO Diamond D1

• DVO Diamond D1 review

Cane Creek Helm Air

• Cane Creek Helm Air review

X Fusion Trace 36 HLR

• X Fusion Trace 36 HLR review

Öhlins RXF 36 Evo

• Öhlins RXF 36 Evo review

MRP Ribbon Air

• Price: £850

Glossary

To help you get the most out of the above reviews, here are some handy definitions of terms often used to describe forks.

Chassis

This is the frame of the fork, made up of the upper tubes (or stanchions), the lower legs, crown, steerer tube and thru-axle. It determines how stiff the fork is, as well as how much tyre clearance it offers.

Thru-axle

The thru-axle clamps the fork onto the hub axle. Most are 15mm diameter these days, though downhill forks use 20mm axles. Although some may be stiffer than others, the main difference is how easy they are to use. Quick release axles make it easier to remove the wheel but can be heavier and are more prone to catch on vegetation than those which require an Allen key to install.

Spring

The fork’s spring sits inside one of the legs. It stores and returns energy from the tail or the rider. Coil springs resemble an over-sized biro spring, and provide a consistent, linear spring rate, but are a hassle to change to suit your tastes. Air springs are more popular because they are lighter, easily adjustable down to minute changes, and the firmness of the end-stroke can be adjusted independently of the early travel.

Negative spring

Air springs are made up of a positive and a negative air chamber. While the positive air spring holds the fork up, the negative spring (which can be a coil or air spring) pushes it down at the start of the travel, making it softer in the beginning-stroke.

Self-equalising spring

Self-equalising forks feature a transfer port which allows air to flow between the positive and negative air chambers, so the pressure automatically balances. This makes it easy to set the fork up because there is just one valve to adjust air pressure in both the positive and negative chambers.

Progressive springs

A progressive spring is one where the spring rate (the amount by which the spring force increases per unit increase in travel) increases towards the end of the travel. A progressive spring “ramps up” in force towards the end, whereas a linear spring builds force at the same rate all the way through the travel.

Volume spacers

Most air forks use plastic inserts to reduce the volume of the positive air chamber, thereby making the fork more progressive (firmer towards the end of the travel). Some forks use an extra air chamber to control the progressiveness instead.

Low-speed compression damping

The restriction of oil flow when the fork moves slowly into its travel. This stops the fork diving too quickly, but too much can make it feel harsh over small bumps.

High-speed compression damping

Restriction of oil flow when the fork moves quickly into its travel. This controls how much travel is used when hitting larger impacts or landings. Again, too much can feel harsh.

Spiking

Harshness through the bars caused by too much high-speed compression damping. This occurs when oil flow is restricted, preventing the fork from compressing quickly enough to absorb a hard impact.

Colnago has launched a brand new gravel bike called the G3x. Strongly resembling the V3Rs race bike launched earlier this year, the G3x is aimed at “both gravel and long distance road riding”.

• Colnago goes fully mainstream, dropping seatstays and grams with new V3Rs
• Best gravel bikes 2019: 27 top-rated picks

Colnago hasn’t provided a great deal of detail about the new G3x, but it looks for all the world as though the bike’s designers started with the V3Rs, adjusted the geometry a bit, enlarged clearances and added some gravel-specific frame protection.

For a size 52s (sloping), the G3x has 20mm longer chainstays compared to the V3Rs at 430 (presumably for tyre clearance) and 13mm more stack for a figure of 573mm.

The G3x follows industry trends by going slightly longer than its road counterpart for a reach of 390mm on a 52s, 6mm more than V3Rs. It’s designed to take a correspondingly shorter stem, with Colnago estimating that riders will typically run one around 10 to 20mm shorter than they would on a road bike.

Colnago’s press release notes that the G3x’s bottom bracket is lower too, although at 72mm (just 2mm more than all but the smallest three sizes of V3Rs) it’s likely to be cancelled out by the larger rolling diameter of gravel tyres. It does contrast with the Prestige cyclocross bike, however, which gets a drop of 68mm across all sizes.

Generally speaking, a lower bottom bracket is desirable because it lowers the bike and rider’s centre of gravity, but it does come at the expense of ground clearance, and increases the likelihood of pedal strikes.

The G3x is designed to accept tyres up to 700×42mm or 650b×47mm, which seems to be pretty standard these days on gravel bikes at the racier end of the spectrum.

It uses hidden seat wedge design that appears identical to that of the V3Rs, but adds rubbery protection to the driveside chainstay and the vulnerable lower portion of the down tube and bottom bracket shell.

It looks like there are also bosses on the top tube for bento box style accessories and an extra set of cage bosses on the down tube.

The G3x will be available in a single build in the UK, kitted out with RX-810 (Ultegra mechanical level) components from Shimano’s new GRX gravel-specific range, plus finishing kit from Deda and Prologo, and Pirelli Cinturato Gravel H 40mm tyres.

This will cost £4,299.95 and is expected to be available in the next few weeks. Pricing in other territories is to be confirmed.

Cannondale is launching an e-bike version of its flagship SuperSix EVO race bike. The SuperSix EVO Neo uses a Mahle ebikemotion hub motor and a hidden battery to achieve a total claimed weight of just 11.3kg in its top spec.

• Cannondale Synapse Neo SE e-road bike review
• Aero is (sort of) everything with Cannondale’s new SuperSix EVO

This isn’t Cannondale’s first e-road bike — the Synapse received the Neo treatment earlier this year — but the SuperSix EVO Neo is a very different machine.

While the Synapse has an aluminium frame and uses a chunky Bosch motor unit housed in the bottom bracket, the EVO Neo gets a carbon frame much like that of its unpowered counterpart, and a weight that’s much closer to that of a conventional bike.

Cannondale is aiming at a slightly different market with its latest e-bike. Where the Synapse Neo is geared towards the more casual rider (one who “doesn’t necessarily identify as a ‘cyclist'”), the SuperSix EVO Neo is targeted at enthusiasts who might be “seeking to enhance their riding experience with a discreet boost” and who is more performance-oriented.

Like a regular SuperSix, but powered

The EVO’s ebikemotion rear hub motor is the same one used on the Colnago E64, the Orbea Gain and the incredibly light Wilier Cento10 Hybrid. Like its competitors, the new Cannondale does a good job of disguising its electrickery.

That hub aside, the SuperSix EVO Neo is virtually indistinguishable from the regular race bike, with a battery that’s entirely hidden from view inside the frame and an unobtrusive ‘iWoc’ controller on the top tube, which acts as a power switch and battery indicator.

The bike has all the same aero tube profiles and the Neo 1 and Neo 2 get that unusually wide and flat aero stem that debuted on the new standard EVO.

Brake hoses are routed through the aero cockpit and into the front of the head tube for a clean overall appearance and Cannondale says that the bike accepts 28mm tyres with plenty of room to spare.

While the standard SuperSix EVO comes in eight sizes ranging from 44cm to 62cm, the SuperSix EVO Neo will be available in just three — small, medium and large — with geometry that aligns closely with the standard bike’s 51cm, 54cm, and 56cm sizes, offering a similarly aggressive riding position.

Cannondale claims that the top-spec SuperSix EVO Neo 1 weighs 11.3kg, which is more than 7kg less than the Synapse Neo SE we reviewed in July. That’s thanks to the ebikemotion system, which is claimed to weigh just 3.5kg, offering an estimated range of 75km from its 250Wh battery.

There’s the option to mount a range extender battery in the rear bottle cage, which apparently adds 208Wh of battery capacity and weighs 1.64kg.

As you’d expect, power assistance is limited to 25km/h (15.5mph) in Europe, while North American riders get a heady 20mph (32km/h) ceiling.

The new bike will be available imminently in three models:

SuperSix EVO Neo 1

• Drivetrain: Shimano Dura-Ace Di2
• Wheels: Hollowgram Knot 45 SL
• Claimed weight: 11.3kg / 24.9lbs
• Price: £7,999.99 / $10,000

SuperSix EVO Neo 2

• Drivetrain: Shimano Ultegra
• Wheels: FSA Team Clincher Disc
• Claimed weight: 12.4kg / 27.4lbs
• Price: £4,999.99 / $6,500

SuperSix EVO Neo 3

• Drivetrain: Shimano 105
• Wheels:  FSA Team Clincher Disc
• Claimed weight: 12.4kg / 27.3lbs
• Price: £3,599.99 / $4,500

Designed specifically for the Argon 18 Electron Pro track frame, the Argon 18 Sprint Stem is 3D-printed to a custom specification using Ti6Al4V (grade 5) titanium alloy. Bastion says there are several stack heights available, and it can be made up to 160mm in length with between +17/-17 degrees of rise or drop.

Created in collaboration with Cycling Australia, it forms part of a suite of 3D-printed components made by Bastion, all intended to be used by the Australian national track cycling team at the 2020 Tokyo Olympic Games.

The other parts comprise of a titanium track crank, which Bastion claims is “aerodynamically superior with class leading stiffness” and a wildly shaped, integrated titanium ‘double-drop’ handlebar, which offers “several riding positions that improve control and stability as well as aerodynamic performance”. 

Like the Sprint Stem, both the cranks and handlebars are customisable. The cranks are available in lengths from 160mm to 180mm, and the handlebars can be individually specced for width, stem length and angle.

Bastion, a boutique Australian brand and an early innovator in 3D printing for bicycles, says its “innovative structural designs incorporate variable wall thickness and an internal structural lattice” and that this “creates metallic structures that out-perform composites in strength-to-weight ratio”.

We don’t just have to take Bastion’s word for it either because the recently announced Hope/Lotus HB.T track bike, created for the Great Britain track cycling team, also uses a number of 3D-printed parts. Is the dominance of composites over metal at the top of the sport close to an end?

Why is it so expensive and how can I get one?

The Argon 18 Sprint Stem is available to order now from Bastion, with a lead time of six to eight weeks. Bastion says the cranks and handlebars will be available to order from 1 January 2020, as per UCI regulations.

Hope has also said that the HB.T frame and disc wheels will be available from 1 January 2020. Pricing is still to be announced, but if you extrapolate out from a 3D-printed stem to an entire frame made from a mixture of high-modulus carbon fibre and 3D-printed titanium parts… Let’s just say we think it’s going to be very expensive.

As for why it costs so much, well clearly these parts are all using some seriously cutting-edge tech.

Also, these are really niche products – they’re not going to sell thousands of these parts, so in order to make them financially viable they’re going to have to be pricey.

But there’s also article 1.3.006 of the UCI technical regulations, which states that all “items of equipment must be commercially available in order to be used in cycling events.” Additionally, the UCI now mandates that the retail prices of all equipment must be published, and can’t be so extortionate that they would essentially be unaffordable, or beyond a “reasonable market value” for the product.

The last part of that rule is clearly open to rather wide interpretation, so we have to wonder whether the expense is partly to put off competitors from purchasing these products.

This increased transparency around kit and pricing is refreshing though, because the UCI rules governing the commercial availability of equipment used to be much looser.

British Cycling’s iconic UK Sport Innovation track and road bikes, plus a range of components and helmets, were previously listed for sale on the UK Sport Cycling page, with a helpful ‘price on application’ note, but whether anyone was able to actually purchase anything remains a bit of a mystery.

Keeping your bike clean is an effective way of ensuring it works correctly and safely, while making sure it stays looking good. Clean components wear out less quickly than dirty ones – so a well-kept bike will also perform better than a grubby one, and won’t require as much maintenance.

There’s a vast arsenal of filth-fighting weaponry available for removing grime, cleaning drivetrains and adding the finishing touches to a bike, but choosing what products to use can be time consuming.

We’ve put together this guide to give you an idea of some essential cleaning products: what they are and what to use them for. We’ve also included recommendations on the best cleaning products, as rated by our expert testers.

More on bike cleaning & maintenance

• How to clean a bike in 7 simple steps
• How to clean a bicycle chain
• 5 ways to make your old bike feel like new
• Don’t make these common bike maintenance mistakes

Essential bike cleaning products

Brushes

Soft-bristled brushes are useful for removing softened mud and road grime, while ones with stiffer bristles should make easier work of lifting stubborn dirt.

Choose a kit that contains brushes of varying shapes and bristle stiffness. A large, soft-bristled brush or sponge is good for the frame and wheels, and a cone-shaped brush is better for hard-to-reach areas.

A toothbrush-type brush with stiff curved bristles can be used for cassettes and mechs, and you’ll also want a brush to use when applying degreasers.

Bucket, hosepipe and sponge

Some of the simplest items on your bike maintenance checklist, but also some of the most important. You’re going to need water to wash the bike, whether you go for a good old-fashioned bucket, a garden hosepipe or a pressure washer.

Give the bike a good soaking to help loosen any dirt, then rinse again with fresh, clean water near the end of the process to wash off any residue from the cleaning products you use.

If you use a pressure washer, take care not to point the full power jet up close into suspension pivots, around the bottom bracket or headset as you risk blasting dirt in and washing the lubricating grease out, although seals are much better on modern bikes than they used to be.

Bike cleaning solutions

Bike cleaning solutions are designed to help loosen and remove dirt without damaging the paintwork or material your bike is constructed from. Make sure the cleaner you choose is safe for use on both metal and carbon.

Many are concentrated, so need to be diluted before use. A tried-and-tested starting point to a thorough clean is often a bucket of water and washing up liquid. But a dedicated cleaning solution is more effective than Fairy Liquid at removing the worst of the nasty stuff.

Bike cleaning spray

Bike cleaning spray is a good choice if your bike is really dirty or has dried on mud and crud. You can use it instead of or as well as a cleaning solution.

After being applied, a cleaning spray can be left to work for a few minutes, before being rinsed or wiped off. Most mud and grime should lift off with a good cleaning spray, and brushes can be used to tackle the worst areas.

There are lots of cleaning sprays available, and they should speed up the purging process by eating into whatever grime is on your bike. They’re useful for lifting any dirt that refuses to let go, and are an effective way of washing your bike if there’s not enough time available for a more comprehensive clean. Scroll down for a list of our favourite bike cleaning sprays, as rated by our expert testers.

Degreaser

Degreasers break down grease and grime without brute force, and are ideal for getting the built up greasy crud off your drivetrain and cassette. There are eco-friendly options available too, such as the biodegradable can from Muc-Off shown above. Some products combine cleaning and degreasing in one.

Degreaser is used to clean your chain and other moving parts. Keeping the drivetrain clean is vital. If ignored, dirt will speed up wear throughout the transmission, impact on shifting performance and reduce efficiency. It’s possible to get really vicious with removing every molecule of muck from a chain by dunking it in petrol, although that risks removing all the lubrication from inside the rollers and pins.

A chain cleaning sponge (essentially a sponge with a groove cut into the top) makes cleaning a chain easy — just grab the chain in the sponge’s groove and turn the cranks. There are also lots of drivetrain-specific brushes available for cleaning chainrings, cassettes and chains.

Brake cleaner

Disc brakes benefit from a decent clean to blast away the grit and grime that builds up in a caliper and on pads.

A good brake cleaner should remove oil, grit, grease and brake fluid, without affecting brake performance. Muc-Off’s disc brake cleaner is a favourite in our workshop and even claims to rehydrate brake pads to prolong life and reduce squeal.

Bike polish

Once your bike is free from dirt, the last job is to add a protective polish to the frame and components. Sprays that contain a moisture dispersant and PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene, which is what Teflon is) are good choices.

The dispersant expels water from the bike, protecting it against corrosion, while the PTFE creates a shiny finish where applied. The advantage of using a product such as this is that dirt finds it harder to stick to the PTFE, making your bike easier to clean next time around.

We recommend removing wheels before applying a spray polish, also take care not to get spray on any of the braking components or braking surfaces. If any polish, oil or substance designed to reduce friction gets on to your brake pads, discs or brake track, it’ll contaminate your brake system. Contaminated brakes will severely reduce your ability to slow down, making your bike unsafe. In this case, it’s likely you’ll need to strip and clean your brakes.

You can also get a finishing spray for suspension forks and shocks, which help lubricate and ward off dirt on the moving surfaces.

The best bike cleaning sprays

Hope Sh1t Shifter bike wash

• Price: £6.99 / $8.95 / AU$12.98

Hope’s cleaner isn’t the best smelling on this list but it sure is effective.

The nozzle on the supplied bottle provides a really good spread, meaning you can be extra economical with your bike cleaning.

It plays nicely with disc brakes too, so you don’t have to worry about the power of your brakes once everything has dried.

Read our full review of Hope Sh1t Shifter bike cleaner

Duck Smart Bike Ezee

• £7 per 500ml

Bike Ezee doesn’t require water, though Duck Smart does recommend you give your bike a quick soak first if it’s very dirty. But for lighter spatterings of grit and grime you just spray this on, wipe it off with a microfibre cloth, and then polish it up to a shiny finish thanks to its silicone.

It cleans effectively, seems to keep dirt at bay and smells like banana milkshake!

Juice Lubes Dirt Juice

• £8 per litre

Another UK-made biodegradable cleaner, Dirt Juice is designed to work in just a couple of minutes and we found it did its stuff quickly and efficiently even after wet and dirty rides.

It has a slightly more chemical smell than some, but was extremely effective, and if you buy it as a super-concentrate – diluting it 10:1 with water – it represents superb value.

Oxford Mint Bike Wash

• £7 per litre

Oxford’s British-made biodegradable bike wash is certainly the mintiest-smelling cleaner on test here – and it’s effective too.

It foams up nicely and works well even on seriously grime-encrusted wheels and tyres. It also dries quickly without leaving any streaks, shines up well, and if you really like it you can buy 5-litre top-up bottles of the stuff.

The best bike pressure washers

Worx 20v Max Hydroshot

• £130

Fitting somewhere between mains or petrol-powered pressure washers and portable integrated units, like the Karcher below, is the Worx.

A lithium-ion battery powers the small, lightweight 20v motor, which is incorporated into the Hydroshot’s spray gun. It provides excellent cleaning power and the supplied accessories mean you can use water from a wide range of sources too.

Read the full review of the Worx 20v Max Hydroshot

Muc-Off Pressure Washer

• £120

If you’re after effective home cleaning then we were seriously impressed with the performance of Muc-Off’s pressure washer. It’s easy to use and cleans bikes a treat, while the snow foam attachment is genuinely useful as well as fun to use.

It’s more than capable of washing cars or garden items should you need more of a reason to justify the price.

Read the full review of the Muc-Off Pressure Washer

Kärcher OC3 Portable Cleaner

• £150

This truly portable pressure washer from Kärcher was popular with our test team, but we ultimately deemed it much more suitable for road bikes than mountain bikes due to its limited water capacity.

Use it sparingly and you’ll manage a couple of road bikes on one tank, but if you have two filthy cyclocross bikes, you’ll need more water.

Read our full review of the Karcher OC3 pressure washer

If you’ve never ridden at night before, you’re missing out. It presents an awesome challenge; obstacles come at you faster, it feels like you’re riding at warp speed and there’s something majestic about the woods at night.

You’ll need a high-powered front light to illuminate the trail, though, and these are the best mountain biking lights we’ve tested this winter.

The brighter your lights are, the better your night riding experience is going to be. You’ll be able to see more of the trail, obstacles shrouded in the shadows pop out at you and speed comes naturally.

What makes a good mountain bike light?

We set a lower limit of 1,500 claimed lumens for this test, which is more than ample to provide safe and well-lit shredding. You could get away with less, but how suitable that is will depend entirely on how fast you want to go and how technical the trails are.

In the same way that claimed battery life, weight and a host of other things vary from their real-life measures, the number of lumens a manufacturer claims their light has compared to how many it actually has can vary significantly. Don’t fret, though, while claimed lumens is relatively important, what really matters is how that light is projected, not necessarily how bright it is.

The same for run times. We timed each of the lights on their max setting to find out just how long the juice will last.

Obviously, if the LEDs push out lots of light, more battery power is required. All of our lights have at least 1-hour of run time at the 1,500-lumen minimum requirement, but most offer considerably more burn time at their max output, so it’s unlikely you’ll get caught short.

Battery and LED tech is improving all the time, and although lights with dedicated, separate battery packs will last longer than combined all-in-one units, the gap between the two is narrowing.

Light output isn’t the only factor to consider, beam patterns are just as important. Some lights project their output into one specific area, illuminating everything within that space with exceptional detail, but that’s frequently at the expense of broader coverage.

Lights that flood their output illuminate more of the trail’s surroundings giving a better sense of where you are and highlight details easily missed with a more focussed beam. This wider beam spread means it’s easier to see around turns, too – something that needs to be considered if you’re not running a dual bar and lid mounted setup.

Lights with multiple lenses or beam reflectors can combine spot and flood outputs, with the further option to toggle between them. In theory, lights with both beam patterns are the best of both worlds.

It’s also important to check out what extras are included with the light such as remotes, extra-long cables to connect battery and head unit, multiple mounting brackets, and whether they’ve got a certified waterproof rating, are shock resistant and have battery or mode indicators.

The lights on test range widely in budget, from £130 to £350 / $350 / AU$450. Although it’s possible to spend even more or a bit less, with a 1,500-lumen lower limit this is the sort of price bracket you’re looking at unless you’re considering buying an eBay special.

• Best mountain bike: how to choose the right one for you
• Best downhill bikes

Beam comparison

Scroll through the gallery below to compare the beams of our top-rated lights (each in its most powerful setting).

Gemini Titan 4000

• RRP: £350 / $350 / AU$450
• Claimed max output: 4,000 lumens
• Run time (max power): 2 hours 25 minutes
• Very impressive brightness
• Long run time

The Gemini Titan claims to output a very respectable 4,000 lumens, and while we didn’t specifically confirm the claim, we can confirm that its output in the real world is enormous – with our tester finding it could “turn night into day”.

Furthermore, it has a phenomenal run time at around two and a half hours for such a powerful light.

It misses out on a five-star rating because it’s pretty expensive and the beam spread isn’t quite perfect, but if you need this sort of power you’ll be very impressed.

• Read our full review of the Gemini Titan 4000

Lifeline Pavo Motion 2400

• RRP: £150 / $170 / AU$265
• Claimed max output: 2,400 lumens
• Run time (max power): 3 hours
• Excellent beam spread
• Great battery life

If you’re on a tight budget, but still need a top performing light, then this is the light for you.

Putting out a claimed 2,400 lumens – a relatively modest headline figure – we were impressed by how bright it was. This is undoubtedly helped by its excellent beam spread, which floods into the distance ahead but also illuminates a wide area.

If you’re riding the most technical of trails, you’ll probably want something with more lumens, but for most people this light will more than suffice.

Our only qualms are the lack of a battery level indicator and the fact that the bluish hue of the LEDs can be harsh at times, casting quite hard shadows on the trail. But these are minor issues that we’re more than willing to overlook at this price point.

• Read our full review of the Lifeline Pavo Motion 2400

Magicshine Monteer 6500

• RRP: £226 / $350
• Claimed max output: 6,500 lumens
• Run time (max power): 2 hours 20 minutes
• Unbeatable spread of light
• Illuminating LED colour

With five LED lights and a whopping 6,500 lumens total claimed output, the Magicshine Monteer 6500 is a seriously capable unit.

At maximum 5,000 and 4,000 lumens modes it’s an astonishingly powerful light, but we were also impressed by how this power is put into use. The two spot LEDs illuminate the trail ahead brilliantly, while the three flood LEDs provide unrivalled side-to-side and forward visibility.

Battery life is also excellent. 2 hours 20 minutes run time at full whack is amazing, and this exceeds the claimed life by over an hour, which we really appreciate.

Its downsides include its relatively high price and a lack of a battery time display or mode indicator – problematic when there are 15 modes – but these issues fade away very quickly when in use.

• Read our full review of the Magicshine Monteer 6500

Niterider Lumina Dual 1800

• RRP: £160 / $149
• Claimed max output: 1,800 lumens
• Run time (max power): 1 hour
• Great beam spread
• Impressive power

The Niterider Lumina Dual 1800 is a top-performing light that took us a bit by surprise. Despite its relatively low claimed max lumens, it has great power and beam spread, and it’s also relatively cheap, so ticks a lot of boxes.

The internal battery is quite small, so you only get an hour’s run time at full power. It’s not the most sophisticated looking light we’ve tested either, but it easily outperforms its price tag and competes with many of the more expensive lights we’ve tested.

• Read our full review of the Niterider Lumina Dual 1800

Gloworm XSV

• RRP: £289 / $320 / AU$389
• Claimed max output: 3,400 lumens
• Run time (max power): 1 hour 50 minutes
• Long battery life
• Good mix of flood and spot lighting

With a great amount of power and plenty of range, the Gloworm XSV impressed us with its ability to highlight the trails as if it were daytime.

The spot is fairly focussed on the front of the bike, but it’s good power output means beam spread is okay (though not amazing) with the standard lenses installed. Run time is also good at 1 hour 50 minutes on full power.

Unlike a lot of other lights it comes with a range of accessories, making the hefty price tag a bit more palatable. The fact that it can also be linked into a system with other Gloworm lights makes it a very attractive option for anyone interested in the ecosystem as a whole.

• Read the full review of the Gloworm XSV

Hope R8+

• RRP: £289
• Claimed max output: 4,000 lumens
• Run time (max power): 1 hour 25 minutes
• Exceptional illumination
• Easy to use

It’s not the most powerful light we’ve ever tested, but the Hope R8+ puts out enough light to illuminate everything in front of you and then some. Side-to-side flooding is very good too, and is in fact wide enough to spot lines even when it’s not pointing directly where you want to go.

It’s very easy to use and the battery life is solid, if not exceptional, at 1 hour 25 minutes at full power.The low power mode caught us by surprise on occasion, however – once the battery goes under 30 per cent charge it’s no longer possible to select a higher power mode from a lower one.

We also had concerns about the long-term durability of the mount, but Hope’s after-sales support is generally very well regarded.

• Read our full review of the Hope R8+

Light & Motion Seca Enduro

• RRP: £350 / $400
• Claimed max output: 2,500 lumens
• Run time (max power): 2 hour 40 minutes
• Well managed light output with good beam spread
• Long run times on max power

Out on the trail, the Light & Motion Seca Enduro feels like it puts out a lot more than its claimed 2,500 lumens max power, showing that raw power numbers don’t always tell the whole story with lights.

Much of this is down to how the power is used. The optics create a fantastic mix of flood and spot lighting, and side-to-side lighting is also great. The only drawback to its lack of pure horsepower is that the range isn’t amazing, but this is only a real problem when you’re going at top speed on fast fireroad descents.

Battery life is impressive, and although the mode and battery indicators are a bit vague it’s an easy to use unit overall. The big problem however is the price, it’s an expensive light and at this price point you might fancy a little more power.

• Read our full review of the Light & Motion Seca Enduro

Ravemen PR1600

• RRP: £130
• Claimed max output: 1,600 lumens
• Run time (max power): 1 hour 35 minutes
• Enough power to get you out on the trails
• Great price

For the price, the Ravemen PR1600 is an incredible light. At a claimed 1,600 lumens it’s far from the brightest light we’ve tested, but it will get you out on the trails with no fuss at all and at a very decent price.

The compromise is that while the PR1600 has good range, and the flood illuminates the distance ahead well, it can’t match its pricier, multi-LED competitors for beam spread.

It’s certainly good enough as a starting point, just perhaps not for properly technical and fast downhill tracks. It would also make a great option for people who do a mix of off-road and on-road riding.

• Read our full review of the Ravemen PR1600

Buyer’s guide: what to look for when buying a light for mountain biking

Battery pack

On more powerful or longer-lasting lights, the battery pack is frequently separate from the LED section. They’re connected using a cable and the battery can be mounted to your frame or stem with Velcro straps or similar.

Bar mount

All of our lights on test are bar-mounted. Usually the mount is tightened to the bars using an Allen key because head units can be quite heavy. Some lighter options use a rubber O-ring, while other systems have a bespoke ratchet strap system.

Lens

As the light from the LED and reflector shines through the lens it’s either focussed or spread depending on the characteristics of the lens. Lights with multiple lenses will give a greater range of beam patterns, illuminating the trail more.

Waterproof rating

It’s a fact, electronics and water aren’t best friends. While most light manufactures have worked hard to avoid short circuits by waterproofing their lights, some have gone the extra mile and have been awarded an official IPXX (International Protection) rating.

The first number ranges from 0 to 6 (0 lowest, 6 highest) and denotes how dust-proof it is, the second is the waterproof rating ranging from 0 to 9 (0 lowest, 9 highest). If you’re being picky and are worried about the sorts of conditions you’re going to be riding in then pick a light with the highest rating. It is possible to have a dust rating and no waterproof rating and vice versa.

Weight

With great power comes more weight. Generally speaking, if your light is putting out enough lumens to cast shadows during the day then it’s going to require more power to generate that brightness and last for any significant amount of time. Bigger lithium-ion batteries are heavier and if the light is bar-mounted then this is something you’ll need to consider.

Superbikes may only be affordable for a lucky few, but that doesn’t mean we can’t enjoy ogling what brands can do when money is absolutely not a concern.

Whether you prefer boutique ultralight carbon or a razor-sharp race machine, we’ve populated this list with some of the most amazing superbikes for 2020.

We normally don’t say “we’ve saved the best until last”, but for this one, we had to make an exception. It really is one worth waiting for!

Back in August, we announced the winners of our Decathlon Summer of Cycling competition, which asked readers about their riding goals. Here, we hear from one of the winners, Ben Riddle, whose summer target was to get his motivation and confidence back after a nasty crash during his winter commute. With a number of gravel events on his list of targets this year, Decathlon furnished him with a Triban RC520 Gravel bike.

I still can’t remember exactly how I crashed my bike last winter. I slipped on wet tram lines on my commute, going down so quickly I didn’t have time to put my hand out or unclip my foot, instead hitting the road hard with my head, shoulder and face.

My helmet had taken the brunt of the impact and as it was winter I was wearing a thicker, long-sleeved jersey and leggings, which got shredded instead of my skin. Fortunately, I hadn’t done any permanent damage and the bruising subsided within a few weeks.

I had no choice but to resume my cycle commute to work, but the fall had shaken my confidence and I’d hardly been out cycling otherwise since.

In need of some motivation to get back out there I saw the competition in Cycling Plus and began researching summer sportives, eventually settling for the Grinduro Scotland event on the Isle of Arran in July and then the Dukes Weekender in Aberfolye in September.

Having first got into cycling via mountain biking many years ago before progressing onto road cycling more recently, the mix of on- road and off-road cycling really appealed. More importantly, there are no tram lines for miles around!

I also thought that practicing the bike-handling skills needed for some of the technical descents would help raise my confidence in my ability to handle a bike.

The Dukes Weekender was a great event. The route through forests, up and down hills and alongside lochs was perfect. The scenery was beautiful and the cycling included something for everyone; long hill climbs, fast gravel, flowing singletrack and technical descents.

I really enjoyed the enduro format in which only short sections were timed allowing for some serious competition in those sections, but a casual atmosphere for the rest of the ride.

While I can’t blame the entirety of my slow time at Grinduro on my heavy, full suspension mountain bike, it certainly slowed me down a bit.

Riding the Triban gravel bike at the Dukes Weekender was a completely different experience. I felt a lot faster on almost all types of terrain than before, especially the long uphill fireroad sections. The only bit I was slightly nervous about before was how it would handle the more rocky downhill sections without really fat tyres and suspension to absorb the bumps.

While there weren’t any really technical downhill sections, the gravel bike coped well with mud, roots, rocks and steep drops.

After a few local rides on towpaths and gravel tracks I realised that the tyres the Triban came with were great for solid, dry surfaces, but didn’t provide much grip on wetter, looser terrain. Knowing that I’d be facing a range of gravel types and couldn’t plan for dry conditions I decided to upgrade to some more knobbly tyres. After a bit of research, I chose 38mm Maxxis Ramblers, which proved to be perfect for the ride.

Training for and riding in these events over the summer has helped me gain my confidence. Now I’ve experienced gravel riding on a bike designed for it I think I’m hooked.

I’ll be planning some weekends to North Wales and the Lake District in the near future and re-attempting Grinduro next year.

Not wanting to be left out of the early Black Friday frenzy, Evans Cycles has announced a range of offers on products from some of cycling’s biggest brands.

There are bikes, clothing, helmets, parts, accessories and loads more, but to save you having to do too much of the legwork, we’ve picked out five of our favourite deals.

And remember, this is just a tiny fraction of the Black Friday deals that are already available, so don’t forget to check out the hottest Black Friday offers from Wiggle and Rutland Cycling as well.

• Best Black Friday bike deals
• See all of Evans Cycles Black Friday deals

Castelli Alpha RoS Light Soft Shell Jacket – £220 £110

The RoS designation means ‘Rain or Shine’ and denotes apparel in Castelli’s range that is capable of excelling no matter what the weather throws at you.

With a Gore-Tex fabric and strategically taped seams, Castelli says the jacket is ‘functionally waterproof’ – meaning that they don’t claim it will keep every drop out, but they are promising it will keep you warm and comfortable in a wide range of conditions.

• Buy the men’s Castelli Alpha RoS Light Soft Shell Jacket with a 41% discount at Evans Cycles

FWE Rechargeable Light Set (450/50 Lumens) – £45 £26

Conveniently rechargeable using a simple micro-USB lead, these lights simply mount on your seat post and handlebars using silicone straps, making for a simple yet effective set up. The specs aren’t going to trouble very best road lights on the market, but with 450 lumens on the front and 50 at the back, they put out plenty of light to keep you visible on dark commutes.

We probably don’t need to make the case for having lights on your bike – aside from it being a legal requirement to have lights when it’s dark, it’s also obviously a good idea for your own safety.

• Buy the FWE Rechargeable Light Set – 450/50 Lumen with a 41% discount from Evans Cycles

Giro Prolight Techlace Road Shoe – £349.99 £209

You might have seen these shoes on the feet of legendary climbers like Richie Porte or BikeRadar’s Joe Norledge – the latter of whom cut the velcro straps off of his own pair like Taylor Phinney (though it’s not clear who copied who).

When we reviewed them, we found them to be comfortable, ultra-light shoes – our pair came in at just 347g in a size 45. They’re also plenty stiff for racing, and well ventilated too, owing to the minimalist uppers.

Buy the Giro Prolight Techlace Road Shoe with a 40% discount from Evans Cycles

Genesis Fugio 20 2019 – £1,550 £1,085

Built around a double-butted chromoly frame with a carbon fork, the Genesis Fugio 20 might not be a lightweight gravel racer, but our reviewer said it will ‘roll over anything’ thanks to its massive clearance and 650b x 50mm tyres.

The disc brakes are mechanical, but you do get 11-speed SRAM Apex 1, with a 42T chainring up front and a wide 11-42T cassette out back. It could be the only bike you need for riding all the way through the British winter.

• Buy the Genesis Fugio 20 2019 with a 30% discount from Evans Cycles

Kask Valegro Road Helmet – £169 £115

A recent addition to Kask’s catalogue, the Valegro was designed to be well ventilated, lightweight and good in the wind tunnel.

Developed in conjunction with Team Sky (now Team Ineos), it has quickly become a rider favourite. Our reviewer liked it too, praising it for being lightweight, with great ventilation and adjustability.

• Buy the Kask Valegro Road Helmet with a 31% discount from Evans Cycles

SealSkinz All Weather Cycle XP Glove – £39.99 £23.00

SealSkinz is well renowned for its range of waterproof cycling accessories, like socks, overshoes and gloves. The All Weather Cycle XP Glove is designed to offer protection from the elements, whilst still allowing you to retain dexterity and control over your bike.

There’s gel padding across the palm, as well as a silicone print to increase grip. Sealskinz says the thumb and index finger are are touchscreen compatible, too, so you shouldn’t need to take your gloves off to operate your phone.

• Buy SealSkinz All Weather Cycle XP Glove with a 42% discount from Evans Cycles

BMC has issued a voluntary recall for all Teammachine SLR01 Disc bikes from model years 2018 and 2019, which first went on sale in June 2017.

BMC says it has identified a problem with the fork found on twenty models, which could result in a damaged steerer tube, and therefore potentially lead to crashes and injuries.

In light of this, BMC is requesting that owners of affected models stop riding them immediately and take their bike to a BMC retailer for a ‘safety check’.

The safety check will reportedly involve the retailer carrying out an identification process to determine whether the bike is cleared to ride, or if the fork needs to be exchanged for a new one.

Bikes produced in the model year 2020, Teammachine SLR02 bikes and SLR01 rim brake models are excluded from the recall.

The full text of the recall is below, including a list all of all affected models.

‘Tis the season of dark commutes, soggy shoes, and the never ending dread of the alarm clock’s call. Hello, autumn!

Perhaps you’re not bummed out by the onset of winter because, let’s face it, mud and snow make mountain biking even more fun than usual. To help you get the most out of your winter shredding, Seb’s compiled a list of the best mountain bike suspension forks that he’s tested.

Matthew set the internet on fire this week (he didn’t really) when he made the shocking revelation that “there’s more to life than cycling”. If you have a stomach as strong as your Strava data, it makes a great lunchtime read.

• Death of the derailleur? Shimano has patented a bicycle gearbox and we are extremely excited about it
• Why it’s important to slow down and enjoy the ride | Mildred Locke

The news broke this week that Colnago is on the gravel train, announcing the release of its G3x gravel bike. We ask, is it a unique design or a V3Rs on steroids?

Another big news story that dropped was the announcement that Cannondale is launching the SuperSix EVO Neo, an e-road bike that’s claimed to weigh just 11.3kg.

But it has to be said, the most jaw-dropping story that landed this week is most certainly what could be the world’s most expensive stem. Would you buy it?

Finally, with Black Friday on the way, we’re keeping you in the loop with all the best deals as they arrive, such as saving 75% on Rapha gloves.

Specialized Turbo Creo SL Expert

It comes with the new Future Shock 2.0, which has been revamped with added damping and on-the-fly adjustment. It offers 20mm of travel and works much like a mountain bike fork with a single-circuit system and oil port to control compression and rebound damping.

The dedicated Future Stem Pro, which also features, comes with an adjuster where the top cap would normally be, so you can fine tune the front end on the go.

The Turbo Creo SL Expert is equipped with the majority of a 1x Shimano Ultegra groupset, combined with an XT rear derailleur and 11-42t cassette. The frame is gender neutral and comes complete with the ever-popular Power Expert saddle, while the Roval C 38 Disc carbon wheelset is dressed with 28mm Turbo Pro tyres, and up top there’s a set of alloy Expert Hover bars.

Of course, we’ve not even touched upon the motor yet. The Turbo Creo SL Expert has a Specialized SL 1.1, the brand’s custom lightweight motor. It has a built-in power meter that’s ANT+ compatible, while the Mission Control app allows you to tune the ride, monitor the battery life and record your data.

This motor, paired with a fully integrated down tube battery that puts out 320Wh, is claimed to have up to 80 miles of range. There’s an optional range extender available to buy as well, which adds another 40 miles to that.

But is this the lightest e-bike in its class, as Specialized claims? We’d like to say yes, but weighing 12.68kg on our scales, we’ve found it to be exactly one kilogram heavier than the Ribble Endurance SL e in the same size. Still, for an e-road bike it’s pretty damn light.

• Weight: 12.68kg (size L)
• Price: £7,499 / $9,000 

Continental Terra Speed gravel tyres

We’ve got our hands on the Speed tyres, which as the name suggests, are the faster of the two, with a smaller tread pattern for less rolling resistance.

Naturally, they’re tubeless-ready, and feature the brand’s ProTection casing, usually reserved for its premium mountain bike range. For those not in the know, ProTection is an extra layer of casing comprised of both 180 and 240 TPI on the tyre walls and top, respectively. In theory this should decrease the risk of pinch flats while running lower pressures. We’re yet to put this to the test.

The Terra Speed tyres come in both 650b and 700c, with the option of either 35 or 40mm width in both sizes. Choose between black or super trendy tan wall, and stick to dry conditions.

• Weight: 432g (single tyre)
• Price: £59.95 / €57.90

POC Omne Air SPIN helmet

Launched earlier this year, it’s the brand’s mid-range offering that features its patent-pending SPIN technology. SPIN stands for Shearing Pad INside, and refers to the interior silicone padding.

The EPS liner is apparently density-optimised, which POC claims offers ideal impact force absorption. Weighing 345g, it’s not the lightest, but appears to be easily adjustable with a 360-degree size adjustment system.

The POC Omne Air SPIN helmet is available in a range of colours and in sizes S, M and L.

• Weight: 345g
• Price: £140 / €160

SKS Compit+ smartphone holder

It comes with different fixing options to suit your cockpit set up, whether it’s a simple clamp, one with light adaptor, or one that replaces the bottom clamp on a Bosch e-bike head unit.

The Compit includes a power bank with a 5,000mAh battery capacity that is claimed to charge a phone within a couple of hours. It’s NFC charging compatible, so there’s no need for a cable while riding, which adds to its already IP54 water-resistant rating. Off the bike, you can use a standard USB cable to charge.

It uses a similar twist-lock mechanism to a Garmin, allowing you to mount your phone vertically or horizontally, and is compatible with iPhone (6/7/8, 6+/7+/8+, X/XS), Samsung Galaxy (S7, S8, S9), and Huawei P20 Pro. For everything else, there’s a universal stick-on cover mount.

• Weight 188g 
• Compit+ unit: €79.99
• Phone cover: €9.99
• USB cable: €12.99

Fumpa Pump

Its casing design is also patented and – according to Fumpa – it provides strength, reduced vibration and thermal stabilisation for the internal compressor. It also includes a digital pressure gauge, which can display pressure readings in psi, kPa, and Bar units, and claims that a single charge can inflate six tyres.

It’s powered by a lithium-polymer battery that is rechargeable using a micro-USB cable, and is both Presta- and Schrader-compatible. It’s suitable for a maximum of 120 psi, and the brand states that it can charge a 700 x 23c tyre to 100 psi in 20 to 25 seconds. We’re yet to put this to the test.

This particular version of the Fumpa Pump is fairly hefty, measuring 42 x 73 x 87mm, so it’s probably not the sort of thing you’ll want to carry around in your jersey pocket. If you want the full-size model with all its power, then you’re better off sliding it into a bag of some sorts. 

If you’re determined to pack as light as possible, then there’s also a miniFumpa available, which measures 32 x 56 x 68mm, has a claimed weight of 190g, and is apparently capable of inflating two tyres on a single charge. It’s Presta-fit only, however, and takes twice as long to fully inflate the same tyre mentioned above.

• Weight: 374g (full-size Fumpa)
• Fumpa: £149 / €173.25
• miniFumpa: £109 / €126.74

• Buy now from Sigma Sports (£149)

Here are five 2020 road bikes that we are really looking forward to getting hold of. Yes, it’s that time of year again, when we start casting our eyes forward to see what we think are the most interesting road bikes of 2020.

With 2019 being a year packed full of hot releases on the road, this list is stacked with some top competition. So in no particular order, here are five highly anticipated road bikes for 2020.

What do you think of our choices? Did we miss anything? Let us know in the comments!

With enough riding, your bike can slowly feel like it’s an extended part of you. Every scratch and scuff carries a memory (mostly painful), while every other imperfection is proof of its use.

However, over time your bike may start to feel like an old dog, and may sound like one, too. Things may not function like you remember and you’ll likely start lusting after something new and shiny. That’s not necessarily the only answer, though, so here are some handy ways to bring new life into that well-loved ride, and keep those family relationships intact.

1. Replace your tyres

When did you last replace the tyres on your bike? If they’re on a road bike, are they starting to get a flat centre and show small cuts throughout? If it’s a mountain bike, are the side knobs still intact or are they showing tearing at the edges?

Beyond the obvious wear signs, the rubber in your tyres will get harder over time. Nothing brings quite as much life back into a new bike as a fresh set, especially if you’re upgrading to something better, too.

For road cyclists, do your frame and fork offer enough room to go fatter? Why not experience the smoother and more controlled ride of wider tyres?

Ditto for you mountain bikers, with clear trends showing wider is better. A 2.25in width tyre no longer looks strange on an XC bike, and your trail bike may enjoy going wider still.

While replacing your tyres, check your tubes and rim strips. These won’t make much difference to the feel of your bike, but hey, you’ll love that old bike more if you’re not stopping to fix a flat.

With the tyres in check, check the other rubber part on the bike – the brake blocks. Uneven wear or glazing is sure to be causing lost braking efficiency and possibly even harming your rims.

While the pads aren’t rubber for disc brake users, be sure to keep a close check on pad life and uneven wear here, too. Any severe squealing or lack of bite is a sign that they’re contaminated and you should look at getting that stopping ability back.

2. Replace your contact points

It’s commonly said that fresh bar tape or grips bring about immediate youth to a bike. While this is certainly true, it’s important to not ignore your other touch points too.

Saddles do wear and over time the foam and shell will lose the firmness, shape and support they once offered. If your saddle is collapsing in the middle, or there are significant creases in the cover where the foam once was, then it’s likely time to get yourself a new perch.

If you were always comfortable with your past saddle, then look for the closest replacement. If not, consider visiting your local bike stores and asking to trial a selection.

It’s a similar story for the pedals. These things spin more than that overly enthusiastic guy holding a sign on your street corner.

Clip-in type pedals have multiple moving parts that won’t last forever. The surface of the pedal is something to consider, too. While most have become far more durable in recent years, some older pedals, such as original Look Keos, are likely to have worn bodies by now and will let your feet rock in a way they shouldn’t.

Depending on your pedal system, consider giving them a quick service. For Shimano users, this is a straightforward task with relatively simple tools. Shimano pedals showing bearing play (do they wiggle on the axle?) can also be tightened once open, too.

Other pedals may not be so easy, but certainly check for brand instructions.

Then there are your cleats. When did you last replace them? Have you forgotten what the wear indicators even look like? If replacing, a handy tip is to draw around the outside of your old cleats with a marker pen. This will let you install your new cleats into the exact position of the old ones.

3. Replace your cables

Consider a worn, dirty or rusted cable like a clogged artery – it’s bad news for your bike. Replacing your cables and housing isn’t expensive and will bring a whole new smoothness to your brakes and shifting.

If your shifting is sluggish and inconsistent no matter how you adjust it, then it’s likely the cables are at fault.

While it’s possible to buy fancy (expensive) sealed cable systems and low friction coated cables, my preference is to use common stainless steel cables and standard housings, and just replace them more often. For Shimano users, this means something like a SP-41 housing and ‘SUS’ inner cables.

“But Dave, I have electronic shifting,” you say? Hey, good for you. You’ve just stumbled upon one of the biggest benefits to such a system. Now, go charge your battery.

Brakes are a similar story to mechanical shifting systems, but are typically less susceptible to showing issues from cable contamination. I probably replace my brake cables with every third set of gear cables.

For those with hydraulic brakes, consider a bleed. Brakes using DOT fluid will greatly benefit from some fresh fluid and you’ll be amazed at how nice it is to have that lever ‘snap’ back.

4. Replacing a worn chain

I’ve covered this in depth, but a wearing chain is likely to feel sloppy and slow. More likely, though, that a wearing chain is met with an equally neglected drivetrain covered in muck.

Use a new chain as an excuse to give that whole drivetrain a going over (unless it’s too far worn, again, see the chain wear article). I’ll never put a new chain onto a dirty drivetrain – you shouldn’t abuse your mechanical privileges like that.

Let’s say you have worn that chain and it’s now longer than ever. It’s a perfect time to assess how your gearing ratios are working for you. Perhaps that 11-25t cassette is slowing you down and a 11-28t is needed, I mean hey, none of us are getting any younger.

Or perhaps you’ve never replaced your chainrings and they look more like a ninja throwing star than a cycling component. Are the ratios suitable or have you always just used them because that’s what the bike came with? Always use your hard work of wearing things out as an excuse to upgrade and customise.

5. Replace worn bearings

Don’t always fear the things you can’t see. Bikes hide bearings in the hubs, bottom bracket and headset.

The good news is that many modern bikes use ‘sealed bearings’, also known as ‘cartridge bearings’. When these feel rough or form play, the best solution is to replace them. Unfortunately, depending on how they’re installed, you may need some specialist tools.

For hubs, I personally seek out ABEC 5 steel bearings from the likes of Enduro. If you’re swapping out worn bearings, you’ll be amazed at the difference a high-quality bearing can make to the feel of your bike.

Headsets are typically easier and a few hex keys are all that’s needed to get to the bearings. If you regularly ride in hot conditions, then you likely spend much of your time dripping corrosive sweat straight onto the headset bearings.

Knowing this, preventative maintenance is super easy and undoing the stem, dropping the fork out and squirting in some fresh grease every few months will keep your bike tracking the way it should.

Then there’s the bottom bracket. Personally, I check this out anytime I have the crank off the bike (typically when it’s new chain time and I’m cleaning things). Roughness is a sign of wear, but also be sure to check for play or any creaking. If it’s a press-fit system and not giving you any of the above issues, then just leave it alone.

If it’s a threaded unit, then my preference is to remove it, give it a clean and a new coat of anti-seize before re-installing.

6. Service your suspension

Okay, so we lied. If you’re a mountain biker, here’s a sixth tip for free. When was the last time you had your suspension serviced? Can’t remember?

The oil within degrades with time and use, which greatly affects the sought functionality of the product. Additionally, ignoring these service internals could lead to significant component wear, which means big bucks to fix, compared with many other parts on the bike.

Suspension manufacturers will always be conservative with their suggested service intervals, with Fox recommending an overhaul at every 125 hours of use, and RockShox suggesting you do a similar service every 100 hours. And don’t forget, keeping the wiper seals clean between rides will keep your suspension much happier between services.

All of the above are each, in their own right, proven ways to bring some happiness back to your ride. You can do each one as you please and feel a renewed ride, or you can go all out and give it a complete overhaul in time for the change of season. After all, it’s your bike.

“I reckon you’re going to get lucky today. It’s been raining here for the last month, but today’s looking good.”

Frankly, I’m not sure I was looking at the same sky as my host, Roger, at Ardwyn House B&B, as angry clouds bubbled away in the cauldron up above. Perhaps this is what passes for good weather in Llanwrtyd Wells, or maybe his expectations have shifted after what was a truly rotten early 2019 summer.

Maybe we’d get lucky. He says the weather here, in the self-styled smallest town in Britain, on the southern tip of the Cambrian Mountains, is suitably localised; they could get snow in nearby Abergwesyn and not get a flake here.

Roger’s words were still rattling around my brain when, with a turn of the pedals, drops of rain fell onto my sunglasses. As we turned onto a section of gravel before the first kilometre was out, the sky caved in and bitterly cold rain came tumbling out. Welcome to the summer solstice, mid-Wales style.

Set for adventure

There’s something less offensive about copping a soaking while bikepacking, as opposed to, say, the Sunday club run. The inevitability that it’s bound to happen? That this is an adventure and that getting wet can be filed in that draw?

Or perhaps the biggest saddle bag you’ve ever had makes the best ass saver, shielding you from the muck-spreading that is riding a gravel bike in the wet, or the spare dry clothes stuffed into said bag, should you need them? Whatever the reason, I wasn’t as downbeat as I usually am while riding in the rain.

The bones of today’s ride were devised by a local rider I got in touch with in 2016, when gravel riding was beginning to take hold in Britain.

The ride never happened for various fails on my part, but I always kept the route in mind and it made sense to do it today, as part of a bikepacking tour, in an altered form.

Back then I was still wet behind the ears when it came to the unique demands of gravel riding. The 100-mile route I’d requested – based on what I was used to on the road bike – was met with some words of warning.

The 80-mile route we settled on in 2016 was, I’d come to realise, still too demanding as a single day’s ride for me (and photographer Joe, who was hauling around an indecent weight of camera equipment in his rucksack), particularly with the kit we were carrying, so we shrunk it down further to a pint-sized 36 miles.

Still, in my growing experience of gravel riding, 36 miles with 1,200m elevation loaded with kit wasn’t insubstantial.

A general rule of thumb – and this is very much dependent on terrain – is that gravel miles count double compared to the road.

This new route had a bit of everything: fantastic, extended sections of genuine gravel roads, connected by rural, quiet tarmac roads (including the supremely testing Devil’s Staircase climb, which we’d accidentally stumble upon) and some tougher, but short, sections of more mountain bike terrain.

Not a problem for the Scott Addict Gravel 20, which, in the six months I’ve been riding it, has shown itself to be a supremely versatile machine – I’ve ridden it, without modifications, in road gran fondos, gravel rides and now bikepacking trips and it really is a do-all bike.

Hidden beauty

This part of Wales is one that might be easily overlooked, sandwiched as it is between the national parks of the Brecon Beacons and Snowdonia.

In 1965, attempts began to designate it as a national park, though these failed eight years later. Work is ongoing in securing it as an area of outstanding natural beauty.

“If you pick up a relief map showing the National Parks and AONBs of England and Wales, you will quickly notice one large upland area that has neither; that’s mid Wales,” says the Cambrian Mountains Society, an action group set up to further the region’s cause.

“If you’ve never been there, you might well conclude – and who could blame you? – that mid Wales is some kind of barren, dull wasteland that deserves no protection. But you’d be wrong.”

They’re right, this is spellbinding terrain. Straight out of the gate of Llanwrtyd Wells, the route took us onto the rough stuff, and fast up to around 500m altitude. Not good news for photographer Joe, who, with his camera equipment in a rucksack, was hauling what felt like the equivalent of a small child on his back.

He wasn’t moving fast, though this could easily have been the result of the gastrointestinal effect of him eating kippers for breakfast, swiftly followed by a peanut butter nutrition bar, a queasy combination that I felt determined to stay upwind of.

This gravel track, and the hundreds of miles of similar tracks in this region, exists because of the huge industry of logging in the area. Not all of the roads are open to cyclists, or the general public. As a general rule, if there’s a sign that explicitly prohibits cyclists, we’d never recommend riding down it, though several locals we spoke to said they do and have never had any issues.

One sign we saw said ‘Strictly no mountain bikers, runners or horse riding’ – does that mean we’d get off on a technicality in this new age of gravel riding?

Abergwesyn brought down the curtain on the first section of gravel and onto the tarmac, though this section of road, which stretches 20 miles all the way to Tregaron is so narrow, remote and desolate that you won’t care one jot. Come the Devil’s Staircase, however, and you might: it spits at you, gaining 151m in 1.3km making it a formidable climb on a lithe road bike, let alone a loaded gravel machine – and even more so when your photographer requests repetitions on its steep switchbacks.

Just shy of the summit of the steep stuff, you swing a sharp left and get back onto the gravel. A relief for some, not for others, the gradient at least levels out, though you may have to mount a gate, which isn’t easy on the upper body after your wrestle with the Devil.

At this point the climbing began to take its toll. While never long, they come thick and fast and such is the concentration and lower speeds needed for gravel descents, you don’t take the momentum into the next climb like you would on a road ride.

Momentum was also cut by a never-ending series of cattle-gridded gates, which necessitated ungainly heaves of the Addict above my head and over the gate – all part of the bargain of gravel cycling.

The sun – and a warm sun at that – was out by now and such was Joe’s thirst he was forced to refill his bottles in a stream. As expected there wasn’t a single cafe or shop to refuel and rehydrate on the whole route, so don’t travel light should you try this route out for yourself.

By now we’d arrived at the northern reaches of the Llyn Brianne dam, which regulates flow of water into the River Tywi. We’ve been here before down its eastern tarmac side but today would negotiate down its more circuitous – and gravelly – western side, which strays higher and further away from the water.

Construction on it finished in 1972, coming at a time of increasing water shortages in west Wales, and at 91m in height at 280.4m above sea level, it’s the highest dam in Britain. A hydro-electric station was added in 1997 – apparently, it’s a big tourist attraction and the modest sprinkling of cars was pretty much the sum of vehicles we saw during the entirety of our ride.

From here to the finish in Llanwrtyd it was more of what had come before – and we wouldn’t have wanted it any other way.

We’re lucky to ride our bikes in all of the best places, but some rides still stand out. This was close to impeccable (any ride without a coffee stop doesn’t get 10 out of 10) but that serves us right for not packing a flask, we had the space.

The Cambrian Mountains might not be a National Park, or an AONB, but it sure gets the seal of approval.

Get the route

• Adventure Addicts Wales (This tour is private)
• Adventure Addicts Wales (2days)

Grand Tour: guide to smart bikepacking

1. Lighten the load

While bikepacking isn’t about speed, travelling as light as possible always makes the ride more enjoyable, particularly on gravel roads.

There is now a huge range of bikepacking luggage available, from the likes of Alpkit, Altura and Apidura. I had Specialized’s Burra Burra across the bike, and the Stabiliser Seatpack 10 is a highlight because you barely realise it’s there.

Think about exactly what kit you need for your trip – over-packing evening clothing is a common mistake.

If you’re camping, this kit will take up the bulk of your space (ultralightoutdoorgear.co.uk is worth a look to keep your weight down. Be warned, low weight is generally proportional to high cost!) Staying in B&Bs is the ultimate way to travel light.

2. Plan your route, but stay flexible

Sketching your route on apps such as Komoot is a must, but be prepared for unforeseen events on the road that you might not spot on your computer.

Given the mixed terrain of bikepacking, your path may end up blocked – a river may be too high to cross, or a gravel road might be prohibited to cyclists.

3. Be prepared for bike emergencies

Given the remote terrain that you might encounter on a bikepacking trip, be prepared to be your own mechanic. On a road bike you might be used to getting away with just a mini pump and a spare tube, but out in the wilderness you need the skills and tools to perform your own repairs, to bike and body. Chain tools and first aid kits are essential items.

4. Load your kit correctly

Tents and clothing are best in the saddle bag, to give added weight to the rear.

A front handle-bar bag is best to keep light, so something that doesn’t weigh too much and isn’t going to rattle around.

The frame bag is best for items you need easy access to with water bottles in their usual place in a cage.

Sigma Sports has just announced its first round of Black Friday deals. The actual day itself might still be a little while off, but there’s no need to wait – you can do your bit for the flagging global economy right now, simply by treating yourself or a loved one to some tasty cycling bargains.

The Sigma Sports’ ‘Black Friday Price Promise’ also states that if it drops the price of any product you buy before 2 December 2019, you can request a refund and they’ll send you the difference, so there’s no need to worry that you might not be getting the very best deal available.

As usual, there are far too many deals for any normal person to wade through, so we’ve had a look for you and picked out five amazing bargains to pique your interest.

If you just can’t get enough of the deals, though, don’t forget to check out our roundups of the best Black Friday offers from other stores inlcuding Wiggle, Rutland Cycling and Evans Cycles.

• Best Black Friday bike deals 2019
• Evans Cycles Black Friday deals 2019
• Rutland Cycling Black Friday deals 2019
• Wiggle Black Friday deals 2019

Schwalbe Pro One Tubeless Ready Road Tyre – £67 £28

When we originally reviewed the Schwalbe Pro One tubeless tyres back in 2015, our reviewer said it was ‘the best tubeless tyre’ he’d ever ridden. And though it might be a few years old now, with an updated version on the way for 2020, the Pro One remains a great choice.

Schwalbe’s Tubeless Easy technology makes them mercifully easier to live with than many other tubeless road tyres, and we were impressed with their low rolling-resistance and great grip. Durability isn’t amazing, but then it is a racing tyre – you can’t have it all.

• Buy the Schwalbe Pro One Tubeless Ready Road Tyre with a 58% discount from Sigma Sports

SciCon Aerocomfort Road 3.0 TSA Bike Travel Bag – £699 £385

With the weather turning sour here in the northern hemisphere, many of us might be dreaming about a winter break somewhere warmer (and preferably drier).

The SciCon Aerocomfort Road 3.0 TSA bike bag rolls well, packs down small, and at 8kg is helpfully lightweight. In our mini-review, we cited the high price as the biggest issue with this bag, so problem solved?

• Buy the SciCon Aerocomfort Road 3.0 TSA Bike Travel Bag with a 45% discount from Sigma Sports

Shimano SPD SL SH11 Yellow Pedal Cleats – £20 £10

With their simple, reliable design, Shimano road pedals are an enduring staff favourite here at BikeRadar, but as with all pedals, your cleats need to be in good nick to get the most out of them.

It’s also important to make sure you’ve got plenty of the grippy, coloured bits left for those moments when you have to do the awkward walk between your bike and everything else – otherwise it’s all too easy to slip over.

Offering three degrees of float, Shimano’s yellow road cleats are probably the most popular option.

• Buy the Shimano SPD SL SH11 Yellow Peal Cleats with a 50% discount from Sigma Sports

Specialized Tarmac SL6 Comp Road Bike 2019 – £3,150 £1,999

When we reviewed the disc brake version of the Tarmac SL6 Comp, we showered it with praise for its lovely balance, addictive speed and great handling – it even made it on to the shortlist for our 2019 Bike of the Year.

This version shares the same DNA, but has traditional rim brakes rather than discs – which is ideal if you’re not yet fully converted to disc brake evangelism – and at a healthy discount, it could make the perfect, mid-range race bike for the 2020 season.

• Buy the Specialized Tarmac SL6 Comp Road Bike with a 37% discount from Sigma Sports

Wahoo Elemnt Bolt Cycling GPS Computer Limited Edition – £199 £149

You might already own a GPS cycling computer, but is it aero and does it come in a spicy colour? If you answered no to either of those questions, then maybe it’s time to upgrade! 

The Wahoo Element Bolt can tick both of those incredibly important boxes, as well as other more minor ones such as best in class battery life, an easy to read screen, turn-by-turn navigation, integrated workouts and ANT+, Bluetooth and WiFi compatibility.

• Buy the Wahoo Element Bolt Cycling GPS Computer Limited Edition with a 25% discount from Sigma Sports

Training indoors used to have a fearsome reputation for being excruciatingly boring. The idea of spending your time on an indoor trainer, self-flagellating yourself to heavy music while you stared numbingly at a wall, all in pursuit of some intangible fitness gains over the winter, seemed like a kind of madness. Frankly, it probably was madness.

However, thanks to the advent of smart trainers and third-party interactive apps, training indoors has never been easier or, crucially, more fun.

If you’re looking at the long winter ahead and recoiling at the idea of riding in the cold, wind and rain, now is the time to invest in your indoor training setup.

What is a smart trainer?

Smart trainers are interactive turbo trainers that connect with apps such as Zwift, TrainerRoad and The Sufferfest to control the trainer’s resistance and replicate the hills, headwinds and drafting effects inside virtual worlds.

These apps can also guide your through power-based interval workouts with the resistance automatically adjusting to keep you at the required power (known as ERG mode).

Smart trainers work by communicating with third-party apps on smartphones, tablets and computers using wireless ANT+ frequencies or Bluetooth.

It sounds complicated, but most of these trainers and apps will automatically search for and connect to each other, so in practice it’s usually very simple.

Wheel-on or direct drive?

There are two main types of smart trainer: wheel-on and direct drive.

Wheel-on smart trainers function like classic, ‘dumb’ trainers – you clamp the rear axle into a support while your rear wheel rests on a roller drum. This drum is connected to a resistance unit that communicates with your chosen hardware and app to control the resistance you feel through the wheel.

These are typically the cheapest and lightest types of smart trainers, but they can cause wear on your tyres (though specific trainer tyres are available to mitigate this issue), their power measurement is generally less accurate, and the ride feel often isn’t as good as direct-drive trainers.

Direct drive trainers require you to remove the rear wheel and connect your bike to the trainer via a standard cassette. These are heavier and more expensive than wheel-on trainers, but prices are getting more competitive and they have a number of advantages.

Outside of the obvious one, a lack of wear on your lovely rear tyre, they also tend to be quieter and offer a more realistic, road-like ride feel. They are also usually much more feature-rich and accurate, in terms of power measurement, than wheel-on trainers.

Of course, price is always going to be a major consideration. We’ve tested a range of options to suit as many budgets as possible, but there’s no denying these trainers aren’t cheap. However, compared to a groupset upgrade or even a new winter bike, they can offer good value if you want to be able to consistently and enjoyably train indoors.

Why should I train indoors rather than just ride outside?

This is a fair question, and one that really has a very personal answer.

However, most of us will probably admit that we don’t enjoy getting wet, cold and dirty. Furthermore, if you live in a particularly busy part of the world, training indoors can be much safer – if you’re doing hard intervals to exhaustion or training in a time-trial position out on the open roads, you really need to be careful of traffic.

Training indoors can save you from all of that, and in a more positive light, training indoors can be extremely time efficient. Virtual worlds such as Zwift are also so popular now that there are organised online group rides and races – there are even national championships and the UCI is organising an esports world championships for 2020 – so you can indulge your competitive urges to make it more fun.

Elite Suito

• Type: Direct drive
• Maximum power: 1,900 watts
• Maximum simulated gradient: 15%
• Weight: 14.5kg
• Flywheel: 3.5kg
• Cassette included: Yes
• Noise: 73dB
• RRP: £649.99

The Suito is Elite’s new, more competitively priced direct-drive smart trainer. It comes ready to use straight out of the box, so there’s minimal fuss involved in setting it up and getting riding. It’s a great plug-and-play solution.

It comes with an 11-speed Shimano 105 cassette installed, and there are adaptors for 142mm thru-axles and a front wheel riser block included in the box, all of which is especially noteworthy at this price point.

Ride quality is very good, especially considering it doesn’t have the largest flywheel out there, and we were impressed by its stability when really cranking things up.

It can simulate gradients of up to 15 per cent and has a maximum power of 1,900 watts, so really strong riders might find this unit a little under-specced, but for most people this will be more than they’ll ever need.

• Click here to read our full review of the Elite Suito

Saris H3

• Type: Direct drive
• Maximum power: 2,000 watts
• Maximum simulated gradient: 20%
• Weight: 21.3kg
• Flywheel: 9kg
• Cassette included: No
• Noise: 61dB
• RRP: £849.99 / $999.99

The H3 sits at the top of Saris’s smart trainer range and builds on the popular H2. Reducing the noise levels was one of Saris’s top priorities and it’s certainly achieved good things with the H3 – at just 61dB at 20mph (measured on an iPhone app), it’s very quiet indeed.

Ride feel is good, with the stout 9kg flywheel contributing to a very realistic experience. At 21.3kg, it’s also a very solid platform, and while this does make it quite hard to move around, Saris has at least included a handle in the design, which makes things considerably easier.

The H3 is capable of 2,000 watts of power and 20 per cent gradients. Power figures were within the claimed +/- 2 per cent accuracy, which should be more than enough for most riders. At £849.99 it’s also competitively priced, so there’s a lot to like.

• Click here to read our full review of the Saris H3

Tacx Neo 2T

• Type: Direct drive
• Maximum power: 2,200 watts
• Maximum simulated gradient: 25%
• Weight: 21.5kg
• Flywheel weight: Virtual
• Cassette included: No
• Noise: 61dB
• RRP: £1,199.99 / $1,399.99 / AU$1,899.99

The Neo 2T is Tacx’s top of the range smart trainer, and it’s priced accordingly. It looks like a spaceship and its spec and performance are pretty futuristic.

The Neo 2T uses an arrangement of magnets to create a virtual flywheel, and this offers fantastic ride feel, along with the ability to change the level of inertia depending on the virtual terrain. Tacx also claims the Neo 2T power measurement is accurate to +/- 1 per cent, which is up there with the best.

At this price, it’s a little disappointing that a cassette isn’t included, but that’s only a minor nitpick. Overall, the Neo 2T is about as good as it gets in terms of performance.

When you consider that it can be used without a power source (making it useful for pre-race warm ups), and that it’s also one of the quietest trainers available, you have a very compelling package. The only real problem is whether you can afford it or not.

• Click here to read our full review of the Tacx Neo 2T

Wahoo Kickr Smart

• Type: Direct drive
• Maximum power: 2,200
• Maximum simulated gradient: 20%
• Weight: 21.5kg
• Flywheel: 7.25kg
• Cassette included: Yes
• Noise: 61dB
• RRP: £999.99 / $1,199.99 / €1,199.99 / AU$1,699.99

The Kickr is Wahoo’s top of the range model. It offers fantastic ride feel, thanks to its relatively large 7.25kg flywheel, and it’s also wonderfully quiet.

Setting the unit up is very easy, with Wahoo including a cassette and a generously sized power cable, so you shouldn’t need extension leads. Once the bike’s installed, it offers a very solid platform for sprints up to 2,200 watts and gradients up to 20 per cent – these aren’t the highest maximums, but they should be plenty for almost everyone.

Power accuracy, at a claimed +/- 2 per cent, was also very good, tracking closely with our Garmin Vectors.

The Kickr doesn’t have any crazy headline features or specs, and it doesn’t come cheap, but it does everything brilliantly and without fuss. Our tester called it “the gold standard of smart trainers”.

• Click here to read our full review of the Wahoo Kickr Smart

Wahoo Kickr Core

• Type: Direct drive
• Maximum power: 1,800 watts
• Maximum simulated gradient: 16%
• Weight: 18kg
• Flywheel: 5.4kg
• Cassette included: No
• Noise: 70dB
• RRP: £699.99 / $899.99 / €799.99 / AU$1,199.99

Though it sits in the middle of Wahoo’s Kickr range, the Kickr Core is its cheapest direct-drive trainer.

Claimed power accuracy is +/- 2 per cent, which is as good as Wahoo’s higher-end Kickr model, and our tester was very impressed by its ride feel, despite its smaller flywheel.

Setup is also easy, with the unit’s legs simply needing to be bolted on. There’s no cassette included though, so you’ll have to remember to factor that in.

If you’re happy with the maximum power and gradient figures of 1,800 watts and 16 per cent, then the Kickr Core is a great option at a competitive price.

• Click here to read our full review of the Wahoo Kickr Core

BKool Smart Air Lite

• Type: Direct drive
• Maximum power: 2,000 watts
• Maximum simulated gradient: 20%
• Weight: 23kg
• Flywheel: 4.5kg
• Cassette included: No
• Noise: 75dB
• RRP: £749.99

With maximum power and gradient figures of 2,000 watts and 20 per cent, the BKool Smart Air Lite offers a top-end spec, despite being the more affordable trainer in BKool’s Smart Air range.

The design is unusual – it’s meant to look like half a wheel once your bike is installed – and at 23kg and 56cm tall, with no handle, it’s quite awkward to move around. It does fold up narrowly though, so storing it away is easier.

Set up is pain-free. You’ll have to source your own cassette, but once that’s installed it’s essentially a plug-and-play unit.

The design also lends a degree of natural movement from the trainer, especially when riding out of the saddle – this divided opinion among our testers, with some finding it a bit disconcerting and others praising it for lending a more realistic feel.

• Click here to read our full review of the Bkool Smart Air Lite

Elite Drivo II

• Type: Direct drive
• Maximum power: 3,600 watts
• Maximum simulated gradient: 24%
• Weight: 19kg
• Flywheel: 6kg
• Cassette included: No
• Noise: 65dB
• RRP: £999.99 / $1,199 / AU$1,599.99

The headline specs of the Elite Drivo II, Elite’s top of the range smart trainer, make for some interesting reading. Not only is it capable of simulating gradients up to 24 per cent, but it can handle a staggering 3,600 watts maximum power at 60kph at a claimed accuracy of +/- 0.5 percent!

Fortunately, it’s a bukly, stable platform, so if you’re the type of rider that can get anywhere near those numbers, you won’t have any issues, but we do have to question if any such riders actually exist in the real world.

In use, the Drivo II is great. The ride feel is impressive and it reacts very quickly to changes in incline, thanks to an electromagnet on the 6kg flywheel.

Though its bulk comes in useful when laying down the power, it’s a bit of a hindrance when it comes to storing the unit. Furthermore, it faces stiff competition in this price bracket and though it’s able to offer accuracy and maximum power figures wildly beyond anything else, it’s not clear exactly who would benefit from that extra headroom.

• Click here to read our full review of the Elite Drivo II

Kurt Kinetic R1

• Type: Direct drive
• Maximum power: 2,000
• Maximum simulated gradient: 20%
• Weight: 21.5kg
• Flywheel: 6.3kg
• Cassette included: No
• Noise: 75dB
• RRP: £999.99 / $1,049.99 / €1,049.99 / AU$1,699.99

The Kurt Kinetic R1’s unique selling point is the ‘rock and roll’ design, which allows a significant range of side-to-side motion. At first, the range of movement can be disconcerting, especially if you’re used to a rock solid trainer such as the Wahoo Kickr, but once you get used to it it feels more natural.

Beyond that headline feature, the Kinetic R1 has great ride feel thanks to its 6.3kg flywheel and wide-legged stance. The resistance changes smoothly to match changes in the virtual terrain, and with a 2,000 watts and 20 per cent gradient ceiling it ought to satisfy most people’s requirements.

It’s not the quietest trainer at 75dB, but it’s not noticeably loud either. Ultimately, whether this is the right trainer for you will depend on how you feel about the rock and roll design – if you want that unique ride feel, the Kinetic R1 is a great unit.

• Click here to read our full review of the Kurt Kinetic R1

Saris M2

• Type: Wheel-on
• Maximum power: 1,500 watts
• Maximum simulated gradient: 15%
• Weight: 9kg
• Flywheel: 1.2kg
• Cassette included: Not needed
• Noise: 75dB
• RRP: £425 / $500

The Saris M2 is a relatively affordable, wheel-on smart trainer. Using a classic A-frame design, it only weighs 9kg, making it easy to move around, and it folds up neatly for easy storage.

For a wheel-on trainer, the Saris M2 is noticeably quiet. It can’t quite compete with the better direct-drive trainers, but it’s not far off (tyre choice will affect this however).

Ride feel is good, if not spectacular – largely due to the fact that it only has a 1.2kg flywheel, meaning it struggles to compete against more expensive units – and we also found the power accuracy to be better than the claimed +/- 5 per cent, once properly calibrated.

• Click here to read our full review of the Saris M2

Tacx Flux S

• Type: Direct drive
• Maximum power: 1,500 watts
• Maximum simulated gradient: 10%
• Weight: 23.6kg
• Flywheel: 7kg
• Cassette included: No
• Noise: 60dB
• RRP: £549 / $749 / €599 / AU$1,000

If you’re looking for a direct-drive smart trainer, but can’t quite stomach the prices of some of the high-end models, the Tacx Flux S might be the one you’ve been looking for.

It’s easy enough to set up, simply requiring you to attach the legs to the resistance unit with the supplied Allen key. There’s no cassette in the box though, so you’ll have to get one of those before you can start riding.

With its 6.7kg flywheel it has good ride feel, but there is a ceiling of 1,500 watts power and just 10 per cent simulated gradients, which might occasionally be limiting for stronger riders in comparison to other trainers.

The only other niggle is that the trainer doesn’t fold up for easy storage – the legs are simply fixed in place with bolts. This won’t be a problem if you have a dedicated pain cave, but if you need to be able to easily stow it away, this might be a dealbreaker.

• Click here to read our full review of the Tacx Flux S

What to look for when buying a smart trainer

How did we test?

When testing these units, we first considered the price of each trainer and what is included in the box — adding on things such as cassettes, spacers or adaptors can add a premium and are worth factoring in.

We then considered how easy it was to set-up the trainer, and how easily it paired with Zwift.

Next, we tested the ride quality on Zwift to see what the trainer felt like at a constant power, as well as when accelerating, climbing and sprinting out of the saddle. This looked at both the physical stability and how the trainer reacted to Zwift, including changes in terrain and changes in power. These power results were compared with Garmin Vectors.

Flywheel

A flywheel helps to create a road-like feel due to the kinetic energy they’re able to store, and the resultant inertia they give – essentially, when you stop pedalling it should feel like you are coasting on a real road.

It’s generally considered that the heavier the flywheel, the better the ride feel ought to be, but this isn’t always the case. Construction, materials and design all play a role, and some brands are in fact now using virtual flywheels with magnets.

Though more expensive, virtual flywheels have the advantage of being able to change the level of inertia depending on the virtual terrain – so climbing should feel different to riding on the flat, just like in the real world.

Weight and packability

Trainers come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes and weights. Wheel-on trainers are, more often than not, the lightest and most packable kind of trainer. Direct drive trainers tend to be much, much bulkier. Though size and shape can vary wildly – with some models folding up to a very slim form – they tend to all be pretty heavy regardless.

If you’ve got a dedicated pain cave, it may not matter at all how big and heavy your trainer is. But if you have to set it up and then pack it down before and after every session, then you’ll need to take this into consideration, especially if you have cyclists’ arms.

Power and gradient

Trainers have different maximum power figures that correspond to the amount of resistance they’re able to generate. They range from 1,500 watts to over 3,500 watts, but 1,500 watts should be plenty for most people, and 2,000 watt models ought to be enough for practically everyone except professional sprinters.

The gradient figures relate to the maximum incline a trainer can simulate – given in per cent, like on the road. Again, a lower figure isn’t going to hinder your training, it simply means those trainers won’t be able to simulate the virtual world perfectly whenever the gradients go beyond what the trainer is capable of.

Noise

Trainers used to be notoriously noisy, but there have been vast improvements made over the past few years. On-wheel trainers are still typically louder than direct-drive trainers, but the gap has narrowed considerably.

The quietest trainers are direct-drive though, with some models being so quiet that the sound from your drivetrain becomes the main source of noise.

If you want to be able to train inside your house or flat early in the morning, perhaps before your partner/family/housemates wake up, or after work when they’re trying to watch their favourite series in the next room, a quiet trainer is a must.

Useful accessories

First of all, most smart trainers need to be plugged in to the mains electricity supply in order to function properly. A good quality extension lead might therefore be necessary, depending on where you’re going to set up the trainer because the supplied plugs don’t always have super-long wires.

We recommend using Bluetooth to connect all of your hardware together, but if you have ANT+ accessories (such as an older power meter or a heart rate monitor) that you also want to connect, then you’ll need an ANT+ dongle for your laptop or tablet.

You might need a riser block for your front wheel. Whether you do or not depends on each model of trainer, but it’s worth checking because those that need one to level you out don’t always come with one included.

They’re not essential, and you could theoretically use a yellow pages (if those still exist) or a bit of 2×4 to level things out, but a dedicated riser block will work better and they’re not that expensive (unless you want it to be, in which case Wahoo will sell you its Kickr Climb gradient simulator).

A trainer mat of some sort – preferably one that’s rubberised – will help catch your sweat and will also help dampen vibrations and keep noise levels down, especially if you’re using your trainer on a wooden floor (which tends to amplify the sounds).

Sweat nets that cover your top tube, steerer tube and stem might also be a good investment to protect them from sweat and corrosion, but what you really want is a big, powerful fan. Something around 20 inches will do, or if you’re really flash you can get a ‘smart’ fan such as the Wahoo Kickr Headwind.

If you’re using a laptop or a tablet then a specific stand to hold it in front of you is very useful as well, or if you want to use a TV, then the Apple TV box is able to use the Zwift app.